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TommyM

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Everything posted by TommyM

  1. TommyM
    I don't think they're an identical match considering they're different platforms 😁
  2. TommyM
    I agree, nothing like a Toyota V6, especially that engine note. Bit like the Jaguar V12, electronics aside Under-stressed, silky smooth & linear power delivery. Along with an iconic true V12 sound.
  3. TommyM
    In my opinion i'm not really fond of the new Camry, the last Camry/Aurion's in my opinion were superior, the 8sp auto now used isn't as "responsive", in all honesty considering it's now the same DI/MPI 3.5L 2GR V6 that's in the ES350, i just feel the Camry version doesn't have all it's power ?, meanwhile the old Aurion has ALL it's power without feeling like it's intentionally being "restricted" for obvious reasons. The older 6sp auto was brilliant by comparison. However the Avalon wouldn't be a bad upgrade, it's not a bad all round package !
  4. TommyM
    Well i've mainly done highway/freeway k's on my Avalon, basically half way through my 7.5k - 8k interval, engine internals aren't dirty due to it having frequent oil & filter changes so running higher base stock oils i'm alot more comfortable running 8k max. 😁 I only use OEM filters because that's what i choose to use, aftermarket air filters might be different in terms of fitment, not as many pleats, etc. I think the main problem child was when Toyota introduced the 2.4L in the Camry which was notorious for excessive oil consumption. Bulletin/recall was issued too. Yeah every Toyota is different, running 0w40 in mine, whisper quiet. Only thing i hear is belts turning & injectors pulsing. Neither did i actually, maybe it's the US, who knows.... i know the two dealerships my car was at still run Mobil oils, so they can't be to bad. As my mechanic says "if it's happy on X brand of oil, don't change it. I was gonna switch to Penrite possibly but meh, it's had Mobil all it's life. 240k later, still mechanically strong & pulls hard.
  5. TommyM
    Toyota A/C is basically overpowered anyway so it could be 34°C for all we care & you'd still be freezing your knackers off 😂😂 And besides, if my car was running warm on a 40°+ day, i can turn the car off & unplug the fan switch, runs both fans on high speed. Similar to what FG falcons do on a stinking hot day, best thing about old Toyota's is they're easy to over-ride
  6. TommyM
    Yeah Group 4 & 5's are pricey, but it's still cheap insurance over a new engine. The 5w30 is alot cheaper than the 0w40 that's for sure. Mobil & Penrite for me is all i'd stick with. But i swear by Penrite synthetic ATF which is what i run over the Toyota stuff which is good but i prefer the extra heat protection of synthetic ATF Higher temp range, better additives, etc - since changing my auto to it, shifts brilliantly, definitely feels more eager to kickdown basically instantly if i need to. 100% smoother too, no shudder. I've seen much good results with Mobil 1 0w40 hence why i use it. Reason why i don't use the Penrite 0w40 is it isn't friction modified 😁 Otherwise i would. Either way Mobil, Penrite & some Nulon's you can't go wrong with.
  7. TommyM
    Yeah that 303 protectant i might invest in when i run out of my current scotch guard infused batch lol. Can't hurt to try 😄 I got suprisingly colour matched leather steering wheel cover for my Avalon to preserve my wood sections on my wheel (no pun intended) lol. Matches the grey perfectly, i like looking at the old school wood wheel but i choose to preserve it 🙃
  8. TommyM
    I'll have to look into it, my leather is still soft suprisingly. Only part that's dry'ish is the most sun exposed parcel shelf section but it's not cracked. Rest is super soft
  9. TommyM
  10. TommyM
    In Victoria the legal limit is 20% rear & 35% front. But due to all automotive glass being different shades, dyes, etc. They have a 5% leeway grace period. So absolute minimum is 15% for the rear & 30% for the front. But the visor strip there is no legal limit on tint, only that it can only cover 10% (basically that whole blue strip on your windscreen), but carbon film on the rear windshield/screen is reccomend if your antenna is there to prevent interference from metalised film. Carbon is basically metalised without the metal content. So I've already checked my glass, my rear window is right on the legal minimum limit of 15% My front windows are 30% due to my glass having alot of dye in it. Solar glass (but it's a 35% film) Rear are 19% which is above the 15% limit. Rear quarter windows are 17% (again different dye) Reason why she suggested an 18% on the rear window is because the dye is different percentages. But it contours perfectly if you want symmetry like i have OCD with 😂 Blends in with that privacy glass effect only it actually has thermal protection not just a dye & no film lol. So if it was my friend doing it she'd advise on 35% front 20% rear/quarter windows 18% rear window/screen Optional was 19% reflective film on the sunroof which now you can't see through lol. 5% visor strip I trust her 100%, she's done tinting for 20 years basically.
  11. TommyM
    If you use a good 3ply paper towel (i use aldi's one, brilliant stuff), then fold about 4 sheets together..... nope, i never get lint if i'm honest 🙂 Might try them applicators possibly ! See how they work
  12. TommyM
    Bahahahahahaha i was actually expecting it to be lighter with a grey interior and all, but nope it's way darker haha ! Well i think your wife likes privacy just like me, you can look at the idiots that sit on your *****, come up beside you, etc.... without them seeing you & simply say to yourself for example "oh look, another di**head with no indicator", "Here we go another moron being a tool", etc. All with added privacy haha ! Shame you're not in Victoria i'd be able to speak to my mate about getting you a price 🙂 Piece of advice though, don't bother with ceramic films until the price of it significantly drops, you're paying top dollar for literally 3% better overall reduction in UV rays, etc. For the massive price jump over metalised film, it's not worth it. Also you have more tints available (35, 30, 20, 18, etc) Also ceramic appears lighter which is what you don't want.
  13. TommyM
    Hence why there's a correct way, at first i applied alot more than i needed, now i literally use a 5c amount & rub it into the tyre until it basically settles, hardly get fling off from it. It is messy but it lasts weeks so it's a minor trade off haha ! I use paper towel folded & folded, then simply throw it away. X amount of pieces per wheel. Works a trick.
  14. TommyM
    Gyeon Q2, seems like an interesting product.... this is why tint film helps significantly 😂😂 (or a good quality glass initially), i generally stick with natural products when it comes to leather, even though it's treated, etc. I ask myself, would i put ceramic on my own face ?, nope hahaha. Either way i thought i'd start a thread because i didn't see one related to leather maintenance. 🙂 Naturally i'm curious about how people do theirs, etc - just being open minded
  15. TommyM
    These are just some examples which i shared in my Avalon thread, showing that minor shine oakwood conditioner leaves behind. Even after having my windows done by a good friend of mine, equally a car girl too, she was shocked with how well my leather is in person. How soft it still is, no tears, rips, etc Minimal wrinkles (or "fold over" as i call it).
  16. TommyM
    I'm actually curious too see how you/some of you actually maintain your leather interior ?. Myself owning an Avalon, technically different leather used, and alot more genuine stuff, just what Toyota did years ago, but even still.... maintenance is the same ! Personally because i know people with horses, etc. I generally clean the leather by hand with a PH neutral glycerine soap (cake of soap) or saddle soap. Usually go with pears personally. But when it comes to the lengthy two step conditioning phase. I swear by oakwood leather conditioner, it's a truely brilliant product, alot of natural based ingredients too. I mean after all, my 04' Avalon has a tick over 240k on it yet my seats still look & feel incredibly soft/pliable thanks to Oakwood conditioner. The process is time consuming but if you use a proper soap to clean, then conditioner afterwards, leather will only need conditioning every 4 - 5 months roughly. Please by all means share how you people do it 🙃😄 New ideas, products, etc - all welcome Note: i'm well aware i go above & beyond maintaining my leather. But that's me. Hope everyone's well !
  17. TommyM
    Coming from personal experience myself & from knowledge within the automotive sector. I can't recommend Mobil 1 0w40 enough, but that's what i run my car on, the additives in Mobil 1 0w40 especially the base oils is what i look for the most. But personally if you want a great all round with proven use. Penrite's HPR range is by far the top pick, even though base oils are more a group III, now they have a Premium non friction modified 0w40 from Penrite which is group IV & V base oils. Same with Nulon's 0w40 being a group IV & V base oils. Always consult your owners manual for a general idea of specs you can use. E.g 5w30, 15w40, 20w50, 10w30 With that information you can tailor it to 2020 levels if it's an older vehicle (e.g 5w40, 5w50, 10w40, etc). But personally after being 3600km into my service interval running Mobil 1 0w40, hasn't burnt a drop, instant oil pressure on cold start too. Now yes i'm aware it can be pricey, some is marketing but also i've seen many many cars running Mobil 1 with well over 500k with spotless insides, super smooth operation, etc. Top picks from me & multiple other people i know. 1. Mobil 1 2. Penrite Though if it's Royal Purple, etc - them oil brands just embarrass themselves, they're not worth the price tag.
  18. TommyM
    Thought i'd put my two cents in & give a recommendation. Now i personally have tried numerous tyre shines over the years, but since i changed to Meguiars Endurance Tyre Gel yonks ago, i haven't looked back, it lasts weeks, protects against tyre browning, etc. Now there's a correct way & incorrect way to apply it, but personally i'm happy with just how long the gloss shine lasts (which is what i personally prefer), will i change ?, probably not. Strongly recommended considering how little you use too.
  19. TommyM
    Only thing i really need to do is address the chrome moldings, other than that.... not much else. Just had new OEM plugs & leads (Denso & Yazaki) fitted the other day (seeing as i can see my bloody mechanic now). Regarding the shine ?, the paints held up remarkably well, shines beautifully when clean. Though these pics it was actually kinda dirty 😂😂 I haven't done much to it besides keep it clean, do plan on polishing it, etc. Earlier on in the thread someone requested pics, so now i've delivered 😉
  20. TommyM
    So after COVID-19 restrictions finally f**ked off i was able to get my windows done. Before & after provided below Because she's a friend of mine, i won't disclose how much it cost me, needless to say she was aussie so i know the work was top notch using very high quality US made film (3M) i believe. So as follows.... 35% (front metalised film) 20% (rear metalised film including quarter windows) 18% (rear window carbon based film) - because the navigation & radio get their signal from the antenna in the rear glass, there isn't a physical antenna. Which is good, gives it a clean look. 19% (sunroof reflective metalised film) 5% (visor strip carbon based film) Because they have a fair amount of colour in the glass, the windows are actually darker than the film, but still above the legal limit/cutoff.
  21. TommyM
    The Aurion might be newer, but older Toyota's with the simple, old school tech, old school plastics will never age, they last a lifetime because back then Toyota were still very much about the best materials around. Which is unfortunate because i believe the XV40 Aurion/Camry's had alot of issues, warping dashboards being one big one lol. Obviously the XV50's were superior but you get my point 😄 Trying to find an Azura is near impossible nowerdays. Old school Toyota's, there's just something about that old school Japanese styling, solidity, etc
  22. TommyM
    Well certain things i have massive OCD with. Keeping it all the same range/brand pays off, i know switching to a 4ohm sub will be slightly quieter but compared to the stock one i beg to differ. Also 4ohm speakers lined together will be a 2ohm load which the factory amp is rated for, one thing i appreciate about Toyota is they put massive heatsinks on their amps. Wired in parallel 4ohm + 4ohm loads to a 2ohm total load off memory. Well look, the factory speakers are 40w rms, 10w for tweeters & 35 for the sub which is actually suprisingly decent for stock, approx 215watts total, but upgrading with 60w rms it's a nice increase combined with the listed below. In addition i'll be fitting some sound deadening material in strategically placed areas. Sub alone is 250w rms Whenever i calculate theoretical max output i always calculate the rms power output not the max output. Speakers 60w rms ×4 = 230w rms Tweeters 15w rms × 2 = 30w rms Subwoofer 250w rms Combined theoretical nominal power: 510 watts It's the perfect amount for audiophiles who want quality for music like Mario Lanza, Il Divo, etc Or some upbeat stuff depending on ones mood
  23. TommyM
    I agree 100%, nothing beats the feeling of knowing the part is correct, aftermarket bottles are incorrect mounts. Them flexi tabs like the Camry's of that era which always break 😂 I have no idea either, whatever it is, it's lasted a very long time lol, might be like a plastic type or vinyl type marker. Haven't seen a car of that era with factory markings in a long time, if i'm honest. I know how to clean things, hell i use a super soft paint brush to clean my badges lol. I might have to look into buying some of that Aerospace 303 spray, where'd you get it from ? I might recoat every 6 months afterwards 😁 This is something i do personally, but my throttle cable/linkage & heater tap valve i coated in white lithium grease spray for smoother movement, but on the heater tap, basically extending the life of small moving parts, even though it's a 10min job unlike Commodore's. Exactly & truth ?, you'll get more of a warranty & better quality part going OEM than aftermarket. Misc things like accessory drive belts, Dayco or Gates, but personally i usually go Dayco. Yeah wherever i can get my Mobil 1 cheaper i'll usually go, but 9 times outta 10 i get it on my trade account with Burson. You can go to bunnings, i can't.... shush you 😂😂😂 But i'm glad you lot are well given everything going on, i'm actually suprised this thread has had so many views tbh. God the Toyota community are definitely less toxic.
  24. TommyM
    Well i wanted to keep it relatively close to factory spec because i'm running the factory navigation & amp which is pretty decent, just need the 2019 map update. In terms of rms, etc
  25. TommyM
    It's probably more chemical exposure than heat that degrades plastics like expansion bottles, i much prefer it over commodore setups that you can't even clean out properly 🤣 What happened to your Azura ?
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