CroToy

I can confirm that fitting LPG on Hilux will void warranty..................

I took it easy on engine and brakes for first 1000 km................ After that period it got flogged hard time and returned with zero oil consumption. 10K service i changed to full sintetic Repsol Competition 5-40 and it works like dream.............revs up smoother and averages 11l/100km. 8 sec 0-100 ? Easy..................

no :(

I know that model..............its great. Personally, i wasnt ready to pay double i paid for those two added functions.

Call me stupid but I have to confirm. So the 8 CD is the CD 2 menu (iPod interface). So CD 1 (orginal 4 CD player) is still functional. Right? How does the RCA work as well? I assume the interface plug into the CD charger socket.. Right? I think I can do it! EDIT: Hang on, are the top 2 screw Tacx screw (whatever they are called - those star ones)? Also there are just clips from the top vents? Any tricks to get them off? 1.Right 2.On CD 2 menu you use Disc 1 for I pod , Disc 2 for one set of RCA's, Disc 3 for second set of RCA.Dics 4-8 are not functional. 3.Yes.It is only empty slot at the back of HU 4.top and bottom screws are 10 mm 5.stick fingers in wents and full towards you. All clips are good quality,they should not brake and they clip back well.

And how much money are we talking? Same kit installed by professional shop would set you $500-$600 I got a great deal,done it myself ( $250)

Interface uses external CD changer socket..................HU is designed for up to 8 CD's. Ipod works on Disc 1 Interface has 2 additional RCA inputs (i'm planing to hook up DVD player) Operating: HU press once for front CD stacker press again to come to CD changer 2 menu. Swithing to CD 2 menu turns I pod on.Changing to FM/AM or CD 1 (internal) switches I pod off. Track button on HU skips songs up or down.Volume reg on HU. Display shows truck number and length To skip folder you need to use Ipod itself And,it get charged as well. Works well and sounds great. IMO great value for money...............

http://www.hitv.com.au/products/hilink-series/ipodaudio.php#

choose place where you want to place Interface unit i used decide where you want to keep your I-pod.......i choose and...........voila.........

Interface : first,open glovebox and pull out sides and bottom of console (all held by clips) unscrew gear knob and pull out bottom console use 10 mm socket to unscrew HU 2 bottom bolts pull out top vents unscrew 2 top bolts pull out HU plug 12 pin Interface plug to only available socket on back of HU

Dont waiste your money. By fitting CAI you will gain just induction noise, factory ECU WILL compensate for increased air flow.

Which unit did you get http://www.hitv.com.au/products/hilink-series/ipodaudio.php ?? Mind telling us what the cost was ? can you control the iPodfrom the Nav screen ? I take it this was on a Series II Kluger ? Do any of their units do TV on the SatNav screen ? Cheers Dwayne First one on the top.Once you order it you just specify tipe of vehicle (basically all toyota & Lexus) I got special deal but it cost around 250. It charges Ipod,you chose folder on the Ipod,sut choose tracks on HU (track button)or on steering wheel Kluger II. Dont know about TV.

4 stack is treated as Internal (CD Changer I),Interface is recognised as External. HU has 12 pin empty slot. I took pics while doing mine........can e-mail or post (dont know how :( )

I just finished installing Ipod interface in my Grande. Took me 1/2 hour, its direct plug in.Works great,excellent sound. It uses CD stacker plug..........basically HU recognises interface as CD Changer II. It also have 2 audio RCA inputs.........my next task is connecting DVD player to interface. For more info check www.hitv.com.au

Exactly. I have always, slightly, increased my tyre size when replacing the factory originals. One thing to check on the Kluger is the clearance between the rear tyres and the strut. There doesn't seem to be much room there. 255 should fit fine. I have 275/45-20 (8'5 x 20 rim) on mine............has 8 mm gap between tyre and strut. My new wheels are going to be 265/35-22 (9x22) gap will be same. Do they fit into the spare tyre holder? Do you have any photos? I haven't seen a Kluger with different rims yet. Not sure for spare.........its standard one.(same radius)........but don't think it would fit....too wide You are right, there is no big choice for Kluger. It took me 4 weeks searching for new 22's.......most 22's are 9'5x22 or 10x22 whats too wide for back. 9x22 fits nice but with 265 tyre. I will post some pics once i take some photo's BTW i will have my 20's for sale soon. Do you know if going for a wider tyre affects insuarnce or warranty? my tyre guy advised seriously against it for these reasons? You can declare wheel change on your insurance policy. Warranty can be voided just for parts affected with wheel change....joints,shocks etc......but never heard of that happening (i work for Toyota)

Keep in mind that Kluger and CX9 tyre sizes are new to Australia. We could expect in next few months more choice of different tyre manufactures what "should" bring price down (hope).

Holy sh-i-tzen! Do you still have the 19's too? yep

Exactly. I have always, slightly, increased my tyre size when replacing the factory originals. One thing to check on the Kluger is the clearance between the rear tyres and the strut. There doesn't seem to be much room there. 255 should fit fine. I have 275/45-20 (8'5 x 20 rim) on mine............has 8 mm gap between tyre and strut. My new wheels are going to be 265/35-22 (9x22) gap will be same. Do they fit into the spare tyre holder? Do you have any photos? I haven't seen a Kluger with different rims yet. Not sure for spare.........its standard one.(same radius)........but don't think it would fit....too wide You are right, there is no big choice for Kluger. It took me 4 weeks searching for new 22's.......most 22's are 9'5x22 or 10x22 whats too wide for back. 9x22 fits nice but with 265 tyre. I will post some pics once i take some photo's BTW i will have my 20's for sale soon.

Exactly. I have always, slightly, increased my tyre size when replacing the factory originals. One thing to check on the Kluger is the clearance between the rear tyres and the strut. There doesn't seem to be much room there. 255 should fit fine. I have 275/45-20 (8'5 x 20 rim) on mine............has 8 mm gap between tyre and strut. My new wheels are going to be 265/35-22 (9x22) gap will be same.

I fitted Narva's Blue Vision............its much more "whiter" than standard.

Please reread my post. I said tow bar assembly. So perhaps I was right in the first place? (when you disagreed with my saying there is a 30% price difference) Hayman Reece tow bar (with all wiring etc and fitment) - $493 with a lifetime warranty. Toyota tow bar assembly with fitting - is somewhere around $700+?? Yes, I kind of guessed you might. :P If you read MY post again you will see price of TOWBAR ONLY (427).Now,walk in any Repco,Autobarn or Super Cheap and get harness for 25 buck.Modify bar to suit and there you go 452 dolars only.Pay someone 50 bucks to fit and there you go...............502 dollars only.......... Its really your call which one you will get. Most of dealers will fit you any aftermarket towbar assembly you want incl. HR (500 fitted). Now,what some of you guys maybe dont know or dont care.................harness. Its harness what makes big price difference between aftermarket and genuine ($25 vs $150). Warranty..........with all honesty you"ll never have issue with any towbar you choose. Its harness........aftermarket ones are soldered or in most cases just cliped into taillight assembly. Genuine has module included and its direct plug in.Keep in mind that all new cars are packed with electronics what makes them very sensitive. One faulty trailer can create havoc............i seen that. I want you to understand that i'm not here to sell you this or that.I'm just fellow Kluger owner who has bit of inside info and want to share or advice other fellow Kluger owners. If you really want advice my advice is : get ANY towbar you want..........they are ALL going to last much longer than car itself. But,use genuine harness (because aftermarket warranties cover towbar itself but no electric faults). Only problem with that ............it will make genuine and aftermarket price almost the same............... Cheers

Where are you getting these prices? Ive been quoted $650 for the tow bar assembly at three different dealers - without fitting. If I can get a Toyota Genuine Tow Bar for $427 + aftermarket harness, Ill dam well buy it! 650 just for towbar ? THat is RRP for towbar + replacement shroud + harness with control module (towbar itself is 427) Where i'm getting prices ? Of my computer.............. (i work for one of biggest Toyota dealerships in Sydney)

Rip you off ? Its two products with different price and you have a choice to chose........ Side steps ? $ 710 fitted @ dealer. Go to spare parts and buy them for 450 and fit them yourself (30min job max) Towbar? $ RRP $427 (trade 360) + aftermarket harness(same as they fit with H Reece) $25,no shroud ,fit it yourself(30min max) I agree that dealer fitted price is high but thinhs can have had genuine for much cheaper price. When petrol price or similar goes up and you dont have a choice.......thats rip off. Cheers

As said earlier, Hayman Reese CANNOT copy the genuine Toyota bar. They are licensed to make the Toyota bar but cannot sell it as their own so your misconception that Hayman Reese = Toyota genuine bar is sadly, incorrect. Your simplifying my post. I never said that Hayman Reece = Toyota Genuine. I realise that Hayman Reece make one tow bar to suit 08 Kluger and make one with a different design that is Toyota Genuine. Its the fact that the SAME company make a tow bar for the SAME car. Yet one of those tow bars is roughly 30% dearer. I concede that there is extra expense in making a specially designed tow bar for Toyota, but I get shirty when Toyota dealers tell me how special 'their' tow bar is, and that I shouldnt get any other. Note that Toyota done some R&D for all genuine accessories.................. Also,difference dealer charges for genuine or Hayman Reece is much less than 30%

I like how people think that a bit of plastic and metal should cost $50 at Simsmetal rates. If it was such a rip off, an arc welder and a dremel can fix that. That is sooo true..............