DJKOR

I could still get the back of my Sportivo to swing out for tight turns before I put the Ultra Racing rear sway bar in. It's how you drive it.

Sucks to hear mate. But realistically, if it were that easy, it would make you wonder why they didn't fit it in the first place. Maybe you better finish the job and sus the wiring out and see if you can make it work.

Ideally you would want to upgrade your front sway bar as well, but these aren't available. Also, it comes down to your end requirements. Installing the 19mm rear sway bar will put more bias into oversteer, but since the car was more biased to understeer in the first place, the upgraded rear with stock front will level things out a bit better. It's more to the point that it will still tend to understeer when pushed to the limit, but you can make it oversteer if you really want to. If you upgrade the rear and the front, you will then bring it back to the case where it will be more biased towards understeering, but with reduced body roll. Basically, just think of how it handles as stock, and then if you uprgrade the rear, you reduce understeer, upgrade the front, you increase understeer. It all comes down to how you want to balance it. As said though, an upgraded front sway bar isn't available anyways. All Aurions have a rear sway bar from factory. In fact, it's a common suspension component in a lot of cars out there.

No mate. Only if it is the cause of any damage that can occur.... which is highly unlikely. As for your question why they don't use a stiffer one in the first place to reduce body roll, whitestivo has pretty much answered that. For the everyday driver (which is the market for most cars), understeer tends to be the safer option for handling. There is more discussion on this in the like you have posted as well. As well, when you think that a thicker sway bar means more metal, this means more cost, and when you're building these things in the thousands, every bit saved makes a difference. Anyways, my opinion is to go for the RSB first if you have to choose.

Just a quick clarification, those mentioning they will be there in this thread are referring to the loop right... seeing as this is the thread for it. I won't be at that thing that SB has mentioned. P.S. Don't forget a jacket tonight eh. May be a cold one.

Just go ahead and buy it and experience it for yourself. Regardless of what another person's opinion may be, their comparison and words won't give you an idea of what the result will feel like. Plus I doubt any negative comments on the Ultra Racing gear is going to stop you from buying it. It's like asking someone how their meal was. A description just doesn't cut it.

If you think that has reduced understeer, you should go and buy the rear sway bar. You will be pleasantly surprised at how much of a difference that makes. It's some of the best money you will spend on your car.

You can't remove that. It's part of the piece you see below. The strut brace sits on top of it.

Are you using Opera? I don't know how the iPhone handles is, but on my WinMo HTC, I could use Opera to view TOCAU in it's non-mobile layout. Opera was also pretty friendly to use. Still, I think to fix this problem, you should upgrade to an Xperia X10. F*** I love this phone. It's actually really clear to read at this zoom level. The camera just doesn't show it:

I figured that would be the case. Since when does cutting corners and doing the cheap and easy stuff to your car help more than the ones that take effort? As I said, less chassis flex. When you think about how everything on the car ties together, would you rather have the suspension components doing all the moving, or having your car flex and absorb some of that movement?

As I and -DAvo said, the front strut brace will barely do anything to reduce body roll. It's only there to stop chassis flex. It does not connect directly to any moving components which is why it doesn't affect the way the suspension operates. Reducing body roll will improve cornering. If you really want to see for yourself, by the front strut brace first. I put these up some posts back so you get an idea of what is at play. Notice how even in their reference diagrams, the front strut brace is not reducing the body roll: No. I've explained this elsewhere, but can't be bothered looking for it right now.

Off-topic LOL at that video. At 1:40 where he is testing the 0-60mph in 3.8 seconds.... he's going down a hill.

I'M EXCITED!

Personally, once you get over the original placebo effect, you will find that the front strut brace really doesn't help on the body roll side of things. If you are just going to get one bar for now, do it right the first time and get the rear sway bar first. Two nuts on each side Check out this eBay seller (thanks Matt) or PM SILVABULLIT if you want to get it locally as he is the QLD distributor of Ultra Racing and may be able to do better than the pricing from Ultra Racing Australia: http://stores.ebay.com/CTECH-STRUT-BRACE__W0QQ_sidZ971709717?_nkw=camry+07&submit=Search

Don't expect it to reduce heaps. It WILL reduce it, but don't expect it to become a sports car with just that alone. To better understand how a simple rear sway bar works in reducing body roll, you have to think a bit more complex. Now this is something I can explain in person fairly well, and because I am crap with written instructions, please be patient in trying to get what I'm saying. Firstly imagine a length of metal bar shaped like this: |____| . Now in the position it is on the screen, imagine holding it with your left hand around the lower piece that is marked red. Now imagine then pulling up or pushing down on the right side piece (blue) with your right hand. You can then imagine that the left side piece (green) is going to move in the same way. Now in that sense, the red piece is attached to the underside of the car on mounts that let it rotate (much like when you grab it with one hand). The other blue and green pieces are attached at their ends to the suspension on each side of the car. Now when the wheels on each side move up and down together, the sway bar rotates along the red piece with both the blue and green sides moving up and down together. It is not being used in that case. However, when the wheel on one side moves more than the other, that above point I said to imagine comes into play. As a result, if one side moves up for example more than the other, the bar will try to make the other side move up in the same fashion. This is how you reduce body roll. A thicker bar will be stronger in trying to get the other side to move so this is why upgrading to the larger Ultra Racing RSB makes a difference to body roll. Absolutely correct. The front strut brace is there to help reduce chassis flex. It doesn't have much impact on body roll, but it can give a feel of improvement on turn in by that reduction in flex.

The way I read it was that he will probably tap into the amp trigger cable for the relay coil, and the amp main power cable for the switched side of the relay. Unless of course he taps into the amp main power cable from the amp end if it is under the seat for example. For some people, it's easier for them to get constant +12v like this instead of poking around for it.

What you have explained there is exactly what you need to do. Couldn't have explained it better myself.

The answer to that question is at the top of this forum if you missed it: TOC 1/4 Mile Records - UPDATED 14/07/2008 - NOW WITH ADDED VIDS & PICS

Are you referring to this bit which should lift up (with a little force) after removing the bolt?

iPhone iFail, LOL. Android FTMFW!

I've just learnt to live with that one. About the best you can do is on the "Active content" page, scroll all the way to the bottom and click on "Mark board as read". Then when you click on "Latest Posts" again, just ignore all the posts that don't have that little square icon next to them. Sure it isn't as clear as having only recent posts show on the page, but oh wells. Edit: His argument still carries a valid point. In the old layout, when you marked it as read, next time you clicked "View new posts", it would only give a list containing new posts, even if it was just one. It was less cluttered that way.

You don't happen to like all the songs of the Titanic movie while driving as well do you?

Hmmm. I guess when you get in and out of your car many times a day and drive it quite a bit, you start to notice the little conveniences from it. Plus I'm planning on disassembling and modifying a Smart Entry remote so that it will slot into part of my wallet. That way it's one less thing to carry.

I'll be at the meet for sure. You know I hate missing out on them. Unfortunately I most likely won't be driving down with you guys, depending on which way work goes. I also prefer to drive during daylight hours now for reasons which may or may not be obvious. I know what you mean Ash. I wouldn't mind having a passenger as well since after driving interstate quite a bit, boy does it suck driving on your own. But if you can't find someone, don't use that as a reason not to take your car down.

Yes you can simply just swap the lamps. Most... if not all generic aftermarket HID's have the same AMP connectors so parts are interchangeable.