DJKOR

Yes. Whenever that warning light with the car and squiggly lines comes on permanently, your TC and VSC will be deactivated. Toyota in their wisdom though that it would be a good idea to disable these when the check engine light comes on.

Ive got my factory one you can use in the mean time if you want. Can bring it thursday night. I've got two . I can drop one off today while I am out and about.

Yeah, I've noticed that quite a few times. Like where I accelerated too hard then reacted that split second before the gear change was complete. I never really saw it as an issue though since I was actually doing the opposite of what the ECU thought I was doing.

Firstly for legal issues, what I will say here is just my own opinions. They must not be taken as advise or recommendations. What you have there is a sheathed 3-core mains cable. This stuff can basically be run though most areas of the house with no need for conduit. From looking at the AS/NZS 3000:2000 Wiring Rules, from the attached photo I would gather that what can be seen would be classified as acceptable. For the case we have here, in accordance with the standards I don't see issues with having such a cable attached to metal components. The AS/NZS 3000:2000 Wiring Rules don't quite say anything about the material of what the cable is attached to. I've seen this type of cable run along in metal cable trays all the time. Surely if you can't attach it to metal, then these installations would not comply with the standards as well. The only thing that I would think can apply from looking at the standards, would be the following. But this is more related to mechanical stress:

It's not really to do about driving performance in terms of sporty etc. It's more about the engine selecting what is most "friendly" on itself and the gearbox. Surely it won't be holding gears like a manual... but this is what you get when you have an auto. The car is doing the gear changes for you. When you make the car do the work for you, it will do it how it's programmed to.

I and quite a few others here have used the K&N SRI with absolutely no troubles. Personally, it would be a good idea to get the error code read by Toyota to make sure what error you are getting. Otherwise. just to be on the safe side, maybe remove the MAF and give it a clean with some electronic contact cleaner. Then reset your ECU and see how it goes. Remember when you reset your ECU, to start the car with all accessories off, then let it idle for a good 5-10 minutes. Then afterwards, turn the engine off, wait a moment or two, start her back up and give her a floggin'. If the error comes back, then I'd really suggest you get Toyota to read the code, just in case the problem is with something else just out of coincidence.

It's a combination of speed and load that the ECU will gauge to decide whether to kick down or not. Depending on how much slowing down was done prior to entering the turn, the transmission may still be in either 5th, or 6th. Both these gears are overdrive gears, and at such a speed, the transmission will tend to want to use a lower gear for acceleration. Since most of the torque is made up around 4200RPM, it is programmed in such a way to utilise that for acceleration which would result in the downshifting. Ever ridden a mountain bike? If you were in a high gear casually cruising along, not needing to pedal with much force to maintain your speed then had to slow down just that little bit, would you prefer to stay in the same gear, or switch it down a couple? Same deal basically with the auto.

Oh dear God!!! Firstly, how could you put up with that grin. Secondly, these things are slow as f*** when you drive them after driving a 6 cylinder. Realistically though, no one here is to be the one to tell you if you made the right choice or not. I really depends on what you feel better driving in. How about taking a Lancer for a test drive to see if you can imagine driving it day to day like you would the Aurion. If it feels like it could do he job for you, then scope out the forums to see what others say about it and make some further judgements from there.

Personally, if the seating is not ergonomic, this would be something you would notice on a test drive. If I found that the seating was not ideal, I wouldn't have purchased the car in the first place. Why buy something you will hate, then continue complaining about it?

Really? Doesn't quite look 100% OEM to me. I thought that China is RHD.

Not really necessary for the N/A 2GR-FE. It won't help with fuel economy and if so, would probably be offset by the cost of it. The extra 4kW at the engine that you get with a higher octane isn't even noticeable as well if that's also what you are after. That said, if you want to use it for your own peace of mind, then surely go ahead. It won't do any bad. Personally, in my opinion, it won't do any more good to the engine when compared to normal unleaded. The main reason why I went premium in my Sportivo was not due to the higher octane, but for the additives that are 'said' to be in them... well BP Ultimate anyways. An octane booster will just boost the octane rating without having those so called additives that are meant to be good for your engine.

Realistically, if there is something you don't like about your Aurion, whether it be the rattles or the other manufacturing related issues, then there's no harm in speaking up. Let other prospective buyers know what issues there are straight from those like them. In the end, it's their responsibility to take the car for a test drive etc and make their own judgements. I'm pretty sure that others here have purchased the Aurion knowing what can be in store for them. At the end of the day, it's whether they see the pros outweighing the cons.

Off topic, I bet he wants to do something like this, hehehe:

Carlingford.

Accommodation for Mick, Rowan, and I is now sorted out. Really looking forward to it now. Damn NSW. Always there to spoil the fun. Would also mean a higher presence of cops on the road. Not that we will be doing anything naughty, I just don't like cops around when I'm driving.

I've heard of cases where the A/C light will flash to indicate a problem with the compressor or something, but never really heard of an issue with the demister light flashing. If you were to ask my opinion, I would say that since the demister control is attached to the air outlet control dial, did you/have you tried adjusting the air outlet to see if that functions? You mentioned that you can't adjust the temperature. I would be thinking that the air mix servo may be jammed by something and is stuck open. That's my guess.

I guess I am yet to see what it looks like. I've always wondered that when they are rolling if you can see the brakes through them. Yep, they are 19's on both the S and the SL. They are an 8 inch wide wheel with a +46.5mm offset. They are close to sitting flush, but just enough clearance so they don't kick up too much road grime onto the side of the car

Those should fit straight into the Aurion. I'm not a fan of the first one... the second one though I think I like. This goes against my hate for putting Audi style lights on cars that aren't Audi's. Also, I don't like CCFL angel eyes, so if that's what they used, I definitely wouldn't get it myself. But looking at the attached photos below, the angel eye illumination is not perfectly even which indicates that they would be using LED's. As well, here are some on-car shots for you of the first one:

Hogs Breath Indro.

It's not who I spotted, but it's who spotted me. First I receive a message from a friend of mine (unrelated to the forum) with this attached: Then when I get back to my car after dinner, I grab the door handle and find this attached: :lol:

A word of caution, you should not perform work underneath your car when it is supported solely by the scissor jack included with the car. Head down to your local auto store and pick up a $20-30 pair of jack stands. Also, lifting only one side will make it hard to change you sway bar.

The HID's don't require a relay since the stock wiring is sufficient to handle the requirements of the ballast. If you want to have more control over how it operates (ie. Not flashing with the high beams when you headlights are off), then a relay setup can be useful. As for the sway bar, you can do it by lifting only the rear up on Jack stands. You can even install it without jacking up the rear, but you need to b thin and flexible.

Different springs and shocks, wider wheels an tires, and an alloy rear bumper support beam on the 3500SL. That's about it. Te springs and shocks make a pretty decent difference though.

Yes. Even the TRD is 16mm stock.

Sounds like the good old discussion on piston slap. In general, I don;t think it is anything to worry about on these cars. Also sounds like the dealer he/she was speaking to didn't really know what he was on about. Some previous discussion: Piston Slap in Aurion Rattle in start up