DJKOR

You need someone like this: Would probably snap the strut in half. I'm not sure about the dynamics of adjusting the coilover, but I would assume that the spring is applying pressure onto the adjusting ring part? If so, what about putting some spring compressors on to take the pressure off it. Unless spring compressors should never touch a coilover; I'm not sure. In keeping with the thread, what did I do to my car today? Sweet f*** all. I drove her in the rain and dirtied her up after washing her yesterday.

If you're in neutral, the car should freely move by whatever pushes it or by gravity. So if you were on an incline in neutral, once your car starts rolling, it should keep moving that way. Unless you reach a part where the ground is close to level and it has no momentum to keep it rolling. That would definitely be classified as a fault.

Yes. The ATF strainer is what you would call a filter. That's not including the strainer right? Cause even at cost price, I don't think you can get that part alone for much cheaper than that.

With the amount of K's your car has done, getting a transmission fluid change isn't a bad idea. It's not absolutely necessary and I'd be leaning more towards getttin it done between 75,000 and 90,000 km for this transmission, but it's all personal preference. I'd highly recommend getting your ATF strainer changed at the same time. If he can flush it (using we fluid only) then that wouldn't be a bad idea as well. It just depends on how much you want to spend on extra fluid. I still have a brand new strainer and sump gasket at home (unfortunately) and from memory I payed something like $110 trade price for the strainer, strainer o-rings, and sump gasket. As for fluid, if you want tried and tested, stick with the genuine Toyota stuff. It's about $45 for a 5 litre can, no smaller. There are alternatives by they are a little harder to find because they have to be WS (World Standard) type. Such alternatives are Amsoil ATL and Fuchs ATF4400. I don't think anyone here has tried either yet. I was going to try the Fuchs stuff, but never got there.

I've lost track of how many times I've quoted myself on this one, but here is another time I will quote it again. These are my views of it. If you want the satisfaction of thinking you have more power, then by all means, go ahead and buy it. It's your money after all. The Sprint Booster or the E-Booster as you have posted don't have any adjustment. They would only be set to one mode similar to the 'Sports' mode I mentioned above. And to put things into perspective for fun, think of it this way. The official quoted 0-100km/h time for the Aurion is 7.4 seconds. The TRD is officially quoted at 6.1 seconds. If these things really can shave a second off your 0-100, then I guess the supercharger doesn't do much then.

I was going to post this in the 'Things that make you LOL' thread, but this video just deserves a thread of it's own. Thanks Mick for directing us to it. F***ing funny.

My answer should be obvious.

You sir, really are lazy. All I will tell you is to take the cover off the fuse panel in the engine bay and look at the diagram there. It's a micro blade fuse.

Screaming Jets - Better http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sFxVjsmrOqI

The idea is not a bad one, however when it comes to tires, there are so many variables when it comes to personal reviews especially when based on an individual's needs, budget, and driving style. For example, David (SupaTouring) was quite satisfied with the Dunlop Sport Maxx that comes stock with the TRD. We've pushed our TRD's equally as hard, but in my own opinion, I find the Dunlop Sports Maxx to be really sh**. Unless someone has individually tested multiple tire types/brands/designs, then comparing one persons review to another doesn't give substantial comparison as to which would be more suitable for another person.

Johnnie, I don't think those fugly plastic stock ones are headers mate. I believe they are intake pipes? Well if the exhaust headers were plastic, I'd love to see how many seconds they would last.

Um.... okay then:

Maybe it says something about the cost/performance ratio. I would expect that if they could save money, they would.

Bird issues. Nah, that could never happen

This. I can't be bothered taking photos but if you look underneath your car directly behind the front wheels and directly in front of the rear wheels, you can't miss it. Strange that they didn't actually follow the instructions on it and fit them pre-delivery like they should have.

I didn't want to make a new thread for this, so I thought I'd share it here. It's kinda LOL material. I was going through the random crap on my PC then I came across this video I had saved. For the geeks among us. Who would have thought you could modify the the sound of an electric discharge by driving it at different frequencies:

I believe a single layer of contact is all it takes. SB did this when he drove down to Sydney and it worked wonders. I'm not sure how many layers he used, but I'm pretty sure one would do the trick. I'm going to use fly screen. Contact will be good for the body of the car, but I'm more concerned about the grill openings. I don't expect it to get this serious (this was a freak occurrence) but after pulling the bumper off to clean out a plague of bugs, I don't like the idea of getting any more in there. I have been scarred: Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I believe for DBA, the only rotors you can get from DBA are the 'Street Series'. I don't think the 4000 Series are available, but you should enquire to double check what you are getting. Personally, I think $450 is a little bit more than what you should pay for Street Series rotors plus fitting. You should consider changing them yourself to save some coin. It's not a hard process to complete.

Because I'm nice. Mind you, this took me a bit of playing around to get it to utilise the screen resolution properly: [msnd] enabled=0 [gps] port=2 baud=9600 protocol=nmea [interface] skin="ui_igo8" resolution_dir="800_480" vga=1 [rawdisplay] class="landscape" screen_x=800 screen_y=480 highres=0 [interface] maxzoom2d=6000000 show_exit=1 defaulttilt3d=7600 [map] 3d_max_tiltlevel=10000 3d_max_zoomlevel=3000 3d_min_zoomlevel=40 3d_max_zfar=2000 [smartzoom] minangle=0 maxangle=80 [timezone] sync_os_timezone=0 reset_os_timezone=0 [device] sdcard_dsk_num=7 Turns out this unit doesn't need the pointer to the directory like the other unit.

This may seem a bit basic, but did you go into the settings in the NAVI menu screen and point it to the new iGO8 exe?

+1 on the practise, practice, practice. Just don't try to get ahead of yourself. Remember what led you to this scenario in the first place.

Have you modified your 'sys.txt' file to point to the right folders etc? You can simply shortcut this by using the 'sys.txt' file from the iGO8 that should have come with the head unit. Without getting off my a55 to get the SD card out of the car, the 'sys.txt' file should contain something like this: [folders] app="StorageCard/iGO8" Usually when you download things like this, 'StorageCard' is replaced with things like 'SDCard' which the head unit doesn't recognise.

I highly doubt this has anything to do with the parking lock pawl. It's more to do with the transmission engaging/disengaging which is separate to that. As well, this has occurred in neutral as well where the parking mechanism is completely out of the question.

That just looks like an accident waiting to happen if you really don't know what you are doing. That is if I'm correct in saying that's just a rotary polisher. Personally, I would only use something that looks like that if it were a DA (Dual Action) polisher.

Firstly, I wouldn't say the revs are too high. It only start off higher than usual for around 30 seconds on average, and that's on a cold start. I wouldn't be worried about that. Secondly, I doubt engine oil has any part in this. The issue here appears to be coming from the transmission. Now automatic transmissions aren't my thing, so I really don't know what may or may not be engaging when it should/shouldn't.