DJKOR

While on the funny advertisement thing:

They wouldn't happen to be these wheels would they: Anyone had issue with Kappa Wheels?

Realistically, if you are coming to a complete stop just use your brakes. You're not going to be getting any overall benefit from it all except maybe a fraction more life out of your brake pads and rotors. Then if you want to continue with the whole S mode thing, then change it to 1st once you are at the lights and then upshift from there when you accelerate from the lights. Only situation where I downshift approaching lights is when there is no one around as I approach a red light. If timed with you can eventually downshift into 2nd and coast along to the lights and if they change to green, you can accelerate again quicker.

I'm pretty sure the only thing I've said never to do with S mode is what I've said above with regards to first. When it comes to this transmission, there aren't really any specific things you should and shouldn't do with it as it is just a gearbox, but basically you should just treat it with care. My main things would be: Do: - Shift 1000-1500RPM before you originally would have intended on changing gears, especially at WOT and approaching redline - Remember to upshift into 5th or 6th once you get to highway speeds. If you don't have an aftermarket muffler, or if you have one but put your music loud, the smooth revving ability of the engine may hide the fact you are in a lower gear like 3rd or 4th. You can easily travel for a good distance in a lower gear and revving it high without feeling it. Don't: - Always drive it thinking it's a manual box. At the end of the day, an automatic gearbox isn't intended to be driven manually. - Shift into 1st unless you are moving less than around 20km/h and plan on accelerating immediately after the shift. There is no advantage to shifting into first when slowing to a stop or to maintain a low speed. Just shift back into 1st once you are stopped. Most of the time, you can just leave it at 2nd. - Be fooled into thinking your car has been transformed into a race machine by using S mode. That feeling will be all in your head.

Personally, unless you are driving aggressively or towing something... or wanting a little bit of engine braking while going down a largish hill, then don't even bother with using 'S-Mode'. You will more than likely get less fuel economy as well unless you are constantly changing at the right times (ie. factoring in gearbox lag etc). It's not a true manual gearbox and it's main purpose is for the last two situations I mentioned above. If you do use it, selecting a gear is pretty much the same as you will do for a manual. From day to day driving, you learn what rev ranges are suitable for which speeds etc. So when you downshift, you pretty much just do it by feel. Whatever you do though, avoid downshifting into 1st unless you are going slow (like under 20km/h) and are going to put your food down a fair bit more directly after shifting. Upshifting is pretty straight forward and obvious, so that's a no-brainer. That you just shift where you feel is appropriate for your driving. If you want to get the so called benefits of 'S' mode (apparently slightly more responsive but not conclusively tested), then just simply put the shifter into 'S' and change the gear section to '6'. Use that instead of drive (as in no need to change gears etc), and you should get slightly more responsive performance. But this isn't something you can expect to really notice the difference of unless you are pushing your car hard. Some more discussion: Sports Mode = ****t IMO Driving with 'D' or 'S'?

They Toyota Super Long Life Coolant (SLLC) that comes as a factory fill for the Aurion has anti-freeze properties so you will be fine when you go to the snow.

50/50 mix of metho and water. Or if you want to buy a product, get some CRC Glass Cleaner.

Maybe Steve just doesn't need any support huh? Hehehe.

I'm guessing the feature has not been implemented into the forum yet.

I wonder how long it would be before it is just you, Mick, Guni, and Ingres

As easy as unclipping the rear bumper (not removing, just uncliping the sides), then undoing the nuts on the inside of the boot that secure the lights. Once that is done, they just slide out and you can put the new ones in. 30 minutes tops.

You sure got that right. The true look of these lights just can't be captured in a photo. Boy do I know that. Such memories. I really loved that car.

So is a train. But it's no harm when I'm only drinking 'Coke'

Well one more thing to add to the list of things seen Oh yeah, I forgot to mention.... man that Lexus just doesn't suit you. It doesn't seem right with you driving it. You need to be much older to fit it better.

Would be good if we could get some clarification as to what that $250 gets you. Either way, that is WAY WAY overpriced. Are you getting the re-usable one like this (the element is usually yellow, but I've re-oiled it with K&N oil instead): Or the one time use filter: I really hope it's not the second one, because I will be in so much pain from the laughter.

Good to see those that turned up tonight. Thanks as well Steven for the help drilling through that muffler shroud thing. Damn stainless steel and the awkward drilling position.

Yeah... and have the hose pop off all of a sudden :P

Oh man. This should go in the things that make you LOL thread. Your title did say " My Ride WHAT DO U GUYS THINK?? UPDATED!!!!!!!! please comment" It's an open invite for people to say exactly what they want to. At the end of the day, fact of the matter is that you do have a Commodore which is not a highly respected car when in their basic form especially when posted on a site where preferences are more towards a particular car (Toyota) or type of car (JDM).

Just a note here, you should not start your engine with your HID's on. You should only turn your HID's on AFTER the engine has started. This is why I don't use the Auto headlights. This is one surefire way to kill your HID's much quicker than normal (moreso the aftermarket kits). Ever wonder why your radio cuts out when you start your engine? This is because the starter motor pulls a large amount of current, and any accessory device is going to suffer from this. So when you start your engine, you are 'pulling' power away from the HID ballasts and they are trying to regulate the voltage to the lamps, but can't do so properly. It puts stress on the ballasts and lamps.

For the purpose of what you are trying to get at, yes you can say that the rear struts are MacPherson struts. On a technical basis though, that above statement is actually incorrect. The rear struts are actually called Chapman struts. Basically though, the coilovers that go in the rear look similar to the ones in the front and you can get camber adjustable pillow mounts where available.

If it's going to do nothing if you were to remove it, then just keep it plugged in. It won't do any harm.

I'll definitely be there.

Personally, I don't know how it all works out on a detailed level, but all I know is that the range between maximum torque and maximum power is where you want to be. Also, here is something interesting to read: AutoSpeed - Power versus Torque - Part 1 AutoSpeed - Power versus Torque - Part 2

At stock height, neither of those tire choices are going to give you issues. For reference, the TRD is running a 245 wide profile on 8 inch wide wheels and it also sits 15mm lower than a normal Aurion. There is no scrubbing on there whatsoever. Yes the TRD wheels have a +46.5mm offset, but that 1.5mm change isn't going to make any difference with your case.

Made in China. More so... for a very cheap production cost. Unfortunately, these kits have a tendency to do that. It's just the overall quality of the lamps and ballasts.