DJKOR

Coulda, shoulda, woulda, but didn't. Meh. There are so many things people could have done. But what's done is done. Anyways, I could have easily stayed somewhere really nice, but I didn't want to. Anyways, where's the fun in that.

This is what I would do... note that this is not the proper procedure, this is just what I personally would do. 1) Remove the fuse in the engine bay labelled 'MAYDAY/TEL'. 2) Disconnect the backup battery from the ToyotaLink unit located in your boot. This would certainly have to deactivate it.

Tire pressures can usually vary depending on the type of tires you have, profile, the weight you are carrying etc. Just because someone is using a particular tire pressure and has the same profile tires as you, does not necessarily mean this is what is recommended for you. When I was running Adrenalins in both 215/55R17 and 225/55R17, I was recommended by Bridgestone to use 36 and 38 PSI respectively. This seemed to work fairly well for me and the only time I ran higher than that was on the track (40 PSI). Prior to that, I was using Michelin Energy MXV8's in the 215/55R17 profile and found 34-36 PSI was good for it. Their recommendation for 40 PSI does seem a little high though. I would try using something like 36-38 PSI and seeing how that feels for you.

For performance purposes, a good spring and shock combo can be just as good as coilovers (in the sense of discussion here). But for the purposes of lowering for style, especially with what you are after, coilovers would be what you are looking for.

Whoa. Definitely a candidate for having balls of steel. And I always though those that ride top fuel bikes had the biggest.

bulls*ht as*hole. no one likes the tuna here. Oh LOL. That brings back so many memories. Like this thread: Making my 96 Supra a 9-10 second car...

Boredom. Nah... I have a really large monitor Obviously joking. I just had a lot of time to spare. I could have used something like the Screengrab! extension for Firefox, but meh.

Chris (00UCH) tried fitting them. They fit fine AFAIK, however as mentioned, the sensor issue comes into play. Because of the way the headers sit, you have to drop the cats that are on each side. Now unless you can put this further down the line and mount the sensors like they should be (one before and one after the cat), then you are going to have to find a way to trick the ECU into thinking everything is fine.

Here we go:

Yeah... where's my old Sportivo? Jeez. Edit: I can't believe Jeez is blocked. How can that be classified as swearing.

Yeah Ash, mine is looking just as... if not worse than yours. I found the lighter the rain, the dirtier my car gets. I am seriously fed up of this on and off rain bulls***. It's so damn annoying when trying to keep your car in good condition ready for the Annual Meet. Of course though I will be cleaning it for tonight.

Spotted 'Flier' at 9:44am this morning driving down the Gold Coast Highway approaching the Pine Ridge Road intersection.

Um.... yeah. Okay then.

The thing to remember is that whatever Toyota has done to these ECU's, they learn fairly rapidly. This is more likely due to the emissions compliance etc. You can thrash it all you want to try and get it to respond better, but if you are equally going to drive it sedately, it's only just going to adjust. If you want to avoid all that AI stuff, putting it into 'S' seems to do the trick. Even leaving it on S and 6 will work. It's not conclusively tested, but it seems to run a little differently. +1. Though there are two smells that never really go away. Brake pad and tire. But these two you learn to recognise. This is true, but it won't remain like that for too long.

Thanks mate, but as I said above, the cost of them just isn't justified, even if thye are second hand (personal opinion). I'm learning to live with what I've got :(

If only it were that easy for me to do. Though, that said, I found just trying to take my mind off my surroundings seems to help. It's quite crazy. If you sit on the speed limit (as shown on your speedo), just count the many many cars that speed by you.

I wonder how much they ripped off the guy who once owned those. Edit: Gawd I so want those.

Well imagine a car the weight of a Corolla with the Camry 4 banger. It will definitely have some go to it. Just a shame it is matched to a 4-speed auto only for the Australian model. At least it is TRD supported:

On that topic of things, you have to look at it from the manufacturers point of view. If you are going to be building a large amount of speedo clusters and there are particular budgets that need to be applied, you can't exactly afford to make a precision gauge for every single car out there. So in the end, they can get a gauge that reads pretty damn close, but there is always going to be the possibility that it will be off by a small amount. Now when factoring in fact that you may end up with some error in your gauges, to prevent legal issues, you would have to adjust your bias so that if you're going to have error, it better be in the safer direction (ie. showing a speed faster than what you are really doing). If you then make all your gauges read slightly higher than your actual speed, then this can factor in most potential cases where a gauge may be produced and read lower than your actual speed.

Okay, something was definitely not 100%... or I needed a good sugar pill. I went ahead and reset my ECU giving it a 5 minute idle on reconnection of the battery, then a half-a**ed flogging after stopping and starting the engine. I don't really know if the reset actually helped out or whether my mind got a reset instead, but either way, it's got that familiar feeling again. If it was ECU related, I'm guessing it was probably a combination of not doing the idle then restart when I changed the intake, and then the over-cautious driving that followed. Now that it seems like an intake on the TRD is a bit more successful then first anticipated, I think I will start adding money to my car mod fund so some day down the track I can get a neater one fabricated.

I'll be out tomorrow night as well.

Oh man, I really don't know what's going on in my mind. So far I've driven to the Coast and back and all around Brisbane giving it a good hard run here and there. Everything now appears to be like it used to.... or is it. In the midst of all my panicking etc, I have pretty much forgotten how it felt prior to fitting the pod. I don't want to put the stock box back on to save having to muck around, but I really don't have a point of reference anymore. I'm not expecting any more power with this pod filter. That's not my point here. What it feels like to me now though is as if my car is not running any boost at all. I'm not saying it's not running boost, but to me, without a point of reference, it feels like that. It sure accelerates hard, but it's like I'm a bit numb. The sound is still exciting though. It does seem to sound a little more quiet than it did last night though. WTF is this... like reverse placebo effect or something. Edit: Yeah Ash, no leaks or anything like that. I gave it a good double checking because that's the last thing I want. It sure makes a good supercharger sound now. I think I will need you to test drive it tomorrow because it just doesn't feel the same to me anymore.

The throttle body on the TRD is pointing in the opposite direction to the throttle body on a N/A Aurion. If it were that simple, I would have gotten the K&N already.

No I didn't reset the ECU afterwards just in case (don't ask why I thought this way). Starting to think about it, I think I made the mistake when testing it out the first time. I remember reading the Northy ECU reset guide where he mentions that after a ECU reset, you let the car idle for 5-10 minutes then afterwards you turn the car off. Once that is done, you start it up again then give it a good flogging. I'm guessing that when I changed the intake and started the car just once, I then gave it a drive and it was probably still 'adjusting' so to speak, even though the ECU wasn't reset (probably because it was getting different readings, hence the odd return to idle), or was running on a different 'profile'. I guess when it decided to stall, that was pretty much it. Then I started it again and I think it got the point. As has probably been noticed by now, I am still running with it on. I may do the proper ECU reset later just to be sure. I'm just keeping a good eye on things for the moment. If all looks good by the end of today, I shall be changing that rubber hose at the top with some alloy then further keeping an eye on it in-case that changes the airflow in a bad way.

The check engine light came on, but I don't think it was one of those logged error code ones. As you know you get that Check VSC error when the CEL comes on properly, this wasn't the case. It came on because the engine stalled, much like when you stall the engine by accidentally shifting into drive without coming to a complete stop when reversing (my bad for doing that once before). It didn't come up when started again. I was feeling risky so I left the homebrew setup on and it managed to make it through the 30km drive to work. It appeared to drive just like normal and WOT acceleration from 90km/h seemed to be no different to before (except for the louder whine). It seems to drive at the same revs as before and gear shift points appear to remain unchanged. I'm still panicking like hell though. It feels like I'm walking on a wire. I've even taken the extra step of carrying the original airbox components and tools in my car for a quick restore if necessary.