DJKOR

Did a tire/wheel rotation, putting my grippier Yoko S.Drives at the front and my crappy Dunlop Sport Maxx's at the rear. Boy do those Yoko's grip. I just don't want to imagine how quickly they will wear. Then I took her to the drags once again: http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=26861&view=findpost&p=395773

It looks like it could do the job, but when it comes to things like this, maybe the tried and tested known brands are the safest bet. For the cost of that though, you can try it out in an inconspicuous area/another car though.

Time to bump this up. I've been taken off the first page Seriously though, it's time for an update... even if it's nothing much. Being a State of Origin evening, I thought about heading to Willowbank again to take advantage of a potentially quiet night. I was a bit half-and-half on this because last SoO evening I rocked up to at Willowbank, it was quite packed with others thinking the same thing. This evening though was quiet luckily. I rocked up around 6:45pm expecting there to be quite a few people around. When I got to the staging lanes, there was only like 3 people waiting. I had to LOL at that time. All up there were around 25 people there racing, but since half of them were waiting to cool down after runs etc, it was always a clear run from end of track back to the beginning again. Anyways, enough of that story... I just feel like writing because I need to wear myself down so I can get to sleep. This time around, I removed my sub to get that bit of extra weight out of the way, but I was also running with more fuel, so removing the sub didn't take off as much weight as it usually would. I also did a wheel rotation putting my nice meaty Yoko S.Drives to the front, and my crappy worn Dunlop Sport Maxx's to the rear. I was waiting till the night before the drive to the National Meet to swap the tires around since these Yoko's cost me quite a bit and I wanted to save them, but with this opportunity to potentially get some decent runs, I had to make a compromise. So... now to the point of this post. In the span of 1.5 hours, I managed to fit in 7 runs. The first three were one after another and I quickly learned that heat soak with a lack of intercooler really affects this car down the 1/4. I guess it's since the engine is pushed hard for the length of track, then there isn't sufficient driving to cool off the excess heat generated. After that, I made sure to let things cool for at least 15-20 minutes before going for a run again. This resulted in similar times. So lesson learnt is that for the 1/4 mile, this car doesn't like consecutive runs. Last time I went to the drags, I managed: 13.827s @ 101.31mph Tonight armed with a little more traction, I managed: 13.748s @ 101.91mph I'm a little more impressed, but still feel like are better times to get. That said, I really am considering just letting this one go now. It's starting to become too much effort for me to head to the drags. I think all that's left for me to do is to head to QR now. And here are the time slips of my three best runs of the evening: And a photo of car 223 for verification:

That's actually quite smart when you think about it. I wonder if the design was intentional or it just happened to work out like that.

Whoa... easy on the formatting. We can read. Without seeing it in person (because the camera doesn't quite capture headlight beams the greatest) I would be guessing it's one of two things. 1) The return wire on the HID lamp casting a shadow in the reflector/projector housing causing a dark area. This is that ceramic coated wire that runs the length of the HID lamp. 2) The lens of the projector. The lens for the projector isn't exactly really high optic grade glass. It's good quality, but it doesn't mean it's perfect. They may be a slight imperfection in it which can cause such issues. Personally, I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary with mine. The beam pattern isn't quite perfectly even on the road, but I'm not paying attention to it.

Just for clarification, FMAN said: He's not saying it's on the drivers side, but rather this is from where he looked. Tell me, does the exhaust pipe run under the drivers side? Because the drain pipe appears to be right above it. Yes I was a bit off in that I should have said something that it was directly above the pipe, but I was working off my memory.. hence why I said 'around there'. I was getting close if you read that I said:

Wrong direction my a**! What were you expecting? A scale diagram showing exactly where it is? Why don't you look where it is yourself and you will see that if you look around the area I specified, you will see it. I said 'around that position' in my statement. 15-20 cm off would be considered reasonable. Anyways, trying to look for it from the front of your car (where your photo was taken from), would indicate that it's not my direction that was wrong, but your following of the direction. Bit disappointed that I won that bet eh

Go inside your car and look at the position where the glove box is. Now look underneath your car and you will see a bit of open hose sticking out around that position (front to back wise), and a little bit more towards the centre of the car (side to side).

My bad. I'm thinking too modern with all the emissions related stuff.

Oh shi*. That is epic disappointment Ash. I think you need to call in sick

You disengage the clips at the bottom of the grill by either pulling up or pushing down on them (I can't remember) while pulling the grill forward. If you look closely at the back of the grill after removing the radiator trim, it will all start to make sends because you can then see the clips.

The O2 sensor is made to read the exhaust gases before the catalytic converter and after it. If it sees the after reading being the same as the before reading, it will think something is wrong with the cat, and give you a check engine light, and maybe even run in limp mode.

Since this one hasn't been answered, I will make a contribution. If you remove your cat and put the 'after cat' O2 sensor without a cat before it, your ECU is not going to like that.

As for getting them, you can either try hard to source some made for the Asian Camry as these should fit, otherwise you can pick up a range of different LED strips online for a good price and work on fitting them yourself. As for wiring them in, you can tap them into whichever light wiring you want to. Most likely for what you are after, you will just tap them into your parkers.

I prefer to spray it sideways and from behind where possible (you are limited as to what you can cover from behind). Do not use a pressure hose, or even a hose with a sharp narrow spray. This can cause some of the fins to bend from a little to a lot. I gentle bristle brush with light brushing should help out. Just remember, it's the A/C condenser at the very front. You don't want to really wreck this or anything (more so, reduce it's efficiency). If you can, try to get some water from behind. Just spray it in through the cooling fans. If you are really game, you could even loosen off the bolts holding the bottom of the A/C condenser in to move it forward ever so slightly to allow you to spray water in between the two. Had to do this when I cleaned mine as there were countless bugs stuck between the condenser and radiator.

Those will look sweet... after a drop of course. Conveniently located in Sydney eh?

On that whole search thing, I must say with the new forum layout, the search function has turned to s***. Now it brings up countless posts in the results which may not help out as a fair amount of the time, the title is what will direct them to the right thread. I know quite a lot of discussion that has gone around these boards, and when it comes to making a post where I like to direct my answer to another thread, I myself get really frustrated with the search function the way it is now. The thing here is that I know exactly what I am looking for, and the results aren't helping.

In all seriousness, taking that bumper off took 10 minutes tops. You can easily disconnect the fog lights/parking sensors when you remove the plastic trim underneath the bumper (required to remove bumper) as you just reach up from underneath to unplug it all. Then it's as simple as a screw in each side of the bumper up in the wheel arch area, removing the screws and clips at the top of the grill area, then the two blots where your numberplate mounts. Helpful photos can be seen here: HOWTO: remove front bumper part1 HOWTO: remove front bumper part2 Edit: Interesting to note, I just looked at that guide for removing the front bumper. Nowhere does it mention about the two bolts that go through the number plate mounting plate and into the front support bar. Maybe this is a TRD only thing?

Thanks for the clarification. I myself was a bit puzzled over that statement.

Yeah, in addition to those two screws, you have about 4 clips or so holding the bottom part of the grill on. It's easy to remove if you are careful and not forceful in the wrong way. Only takes a couple of minutes. But if you are going to the effort to clean that, go the whole distance and give her a thorough cleanout. You will get a lot more access.

Brake pads and rotors aren't like other items on your car that have defined service intervals. These two items are something that you only need to change as necessary. For example, once your pads get close to their wear indicators, then would be a good time to get ready to change them. For some people, this may be in as little as 15,000km or so (even less :o), for other, this may be as much as 160,000km. It all depends on their use. As for the rotors, you just have to keep an eye on the minimum allowable thickness which is stamped onto them. As they get closer to this minimum thickness, then you should consider changing them. If you are getting vibration while braking, you can consider machining your rotors to make them flat again. As long as your rotors are within allowable thickness (they will advise you of this before machining), then this process is okay to do. The only issue you get here is that you may make it likely for the same vibration issue to come back since your rotors will then be thinner and more susceptible to it. Basically, it comes down to what you want to spend money on. If your brakes don't produce any abnormal vibration during braking, then you should be fine to leave your rotors as is and not worry about machining them.

Well well... this would really explain why Toyota recommend changing it at 90,000km under sever conditions and in every other scenario, it's just an inspection. I knew this new fluid they are using isn't entirely crap. And by the way.... you didn't mention what I was look forward to.

I can't figure out what's going on there with your neutral issue. I've never really heard of a case like that before. As for your park brake, sounds like it needs some adjustment. The park brake on these cars do have a tendency to not work the greatest when parked on a hill with your rear facing down the hill. A fair few in the past have reported about it rolling back a few inches when they engage the park brake, even more to the point that it relies on the park mechanism to hold it on the hill. I found the best way to fix that is to adjust the park brake, as you would any other hand brake, by adjusting it at the rear drums then at the park brake pedal. Toyota specify 7-10 notches of the parking brake pedal to activate it, but I prefer to go to about 4-5 notches (as in it clicks 4-5 times when you push down on it). If you are unaware of how to adjust the parking brake, details are shown in the following manual from (PDF) page 554: http://www.camrystuff.com/manuals/Gen6/2GR-FE/Brake.pdf

It's so funny cause it's true: And a few more:

+1. You just can't get that kind of s*** from Boostcruising... to this extent anyways.