DJKOR

The only plug that I came across that was not plugged into the Auspack unit was the secondary FM antenna. It's not required however and will do no harm not having it plugged in. With respect to the Auspack unit, or any other head unit in the Aurion for that matter, not plugging in all the connections will not create any extra power drain.

I may need to go a bit easy on the mountain run due to the Adrenalin's reaching the end of their life, but I may have something new at the same time.... maybe. 1.SILVABULLIT 2.Northy 3.DJKOR 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20.

Well once you've done the two simple parts (cleaning the MAF and TB), which doesn't hurt to do so anyways, here is what Toyota say for a difficult to start cold 2GR-FE: 1. Starter signal circuit ES-304 2. Electronic Throttle Control System (ETCS) ES-320 3. Fuel pump control circuit ES-449 4. Spark plug IG-5 5. Ignition system IG-3 6. Injector FU-15 7. Engine coolant temperature sensor Just some of the recommended areas to check according to the manual. While on the topic of injectors, you should run some Fuel Doctor through your car. I use that at every fill and it seems to keep everything running smoothly.

Damn. That would suck having the seals stuffed like that. I know I'd be less than happy. Question... did whoever fitted your rear sway bar apply lithium grease to the bushes? I made sure I gave mine a good coating to prevent squeaks. Don't forget to get rid of the debris shields as well so you can keep them cool. They are a great rotor. I just can't believe how smooth the braking is since I put them in. You just need to get used to the rattlesnake sound if you like to drive with your windows down.

Holy s***. That trailer wasn't actually done just for laughs. It actually is a 90 minute movie.

I just gave my girl a nice warm bath (the water always comes out hot at the car wash) and cleaned her inside and out. This is the third time this week I have washed her. I also fed her some BP Ultimate.

That would be correct. I highly doubt the Auspack unit will be at fault. It's pre-wired and plug-and-play. With that said though, there was always the possibility of a fault. The only thing I could think of that would drain your battery flat like that would be your headlights left on. The thing is with the Aurion is that one you turn your car off and open the drivers door, your headlights will turn off automatically. The only way to leave them on is if you turn them on AFTER you turn the car off and leave them on. Otherwise, the only other thing that could drain your battery is if you manually turned on the dome light and/or left your map lights on, but this can take a little bit of time away from your car to completely kill the battery. Leaving a door open and leaving your dome light to 'DOOR' would not usually kill you battery since the Aurion has a power save feature in that after 30 minutes of opening a door, if there is no activity and the dome light/door light is still on, it will automatically turn off.

Wow. You really notice the difference in tire/wheel size when you put the old one back on. Makes me want to change my wheels now. And with the last set of photos, despite being a stock interior, it seems somewhat more luxurious than a normal Camry Grande. That tint really helps as well.

Ash (SecaBoy) had finally got around to getting his eyelids colour coded to his paint as well the other week. And he got his in the Evo7 group buy.

I would suggest against using the Throttle Body & Carby cleaner on your MAF sensor. Mainly because you're dealing with the MAF sensor here and it's not a cheap thing to stuff up. Using either MAF Sensor Cleaner or Contact Cleaner would be the way to go. I've got cans of these here so if you need a hand tomorrow, just let me know. If you do get around to cleaning them yourself, clean the MAF first because you will need to start the engine right after cleaning the throttle body. Edit: Yeah, by the time I got around to typing the reply, I get beat.

The 'shift lock' button is spring loaded. Without pushing on the gear selector, you simply push down on the 'shift lock' button, and while holding it down, you then take the gear selector out of park. My 'shift lock' button can easily be pushed till it sits flush with he surrounding trim. If you don't need to push it as far, then so be it. It's not rocket science.

Okay, so I've got many different thoughts running through my head right now. I don't really know what I should be thinking anymore. I guess the best way to go about this is by listing my thoughts/questions: 1) Does anyone here have any experience with the Maxxis MA-Z1 Victra tires (don't confuse with MA-V1)? I get a mixed bag of reviews about this tire, but one thing seems to always be the same. Everyone says it has excellent wet grip. Okay, so that's a good thing, but what about dry grip? 2) These tires can be had for about $249 per corner in 19 inch size (245/35ZR19). The reason I state this is that I have the possibly of obtaining 19 inch wheels that come wrapped with this tire, for close to the cost of 4 of the tires themselves (this is why it's on my mind; wheels and tires for the cost of tires). If these tires are half decent as well, that means it will cost about $249 per corner every time I need to change them. The overall tire and wheel weight will still remain close to the same since my stock wheels are actually quite heavy, and the new wheels of choice have a less chunky design. 3) At the moment, I have 17 inch wheels wrapped with Potenza Adrenalin's that are in desperate need of a change all round. Now for my tire size (215/55R17), it costs about $235 per tire. Now these tires are grippy alright, but if I was to go for the 19 inch wheels and the 245 wide MA-Z1's, which would most likely be providing me with more grip? Adrenalin's for 19 inch are a little out of the question since they are something like $400-$450 per corner. 4) If the 19 inch idea is fail, then I'm left with my 17 inch wheels. This then brings me to my next thought. As mentioned, my standard tire size is 215/55R17. I have head that I can actually go one step higher and that is to 225/50R17. This will give a bit of a fat tire look as well. Would stepping up to this size probably be beneficial, the same, or worse? Thanks in advanced.

When it comes to arc lamp ballasts, you don't have a case of analogue and digital. Anyone trying to market it as such is just using the terms to try and get themselves more sales. Any form of DC inverter is technically a digital circuit, so they can't use this to say that their new ballasts are better than the last. I'm guessing that because HID kits are so cheap to manufacture now and many are being sold cheap, they are trying to find ways to charge people more. A HID lamp is an arc lamp which is driven by approximately 200v. Because your car operates at 12v, you need a ballast to step up the voltage to these high amounts. You have two forms of ballasts that can drive these; traditional iron-core, and switch-mode. All automotive HID's are driven by a switch-mode ballast with a couple of extras (20,000v ignition, etc). To imagine the difference in technology, think of 240v plug packs. You have either that chunky wall brick which is heavy (iron-core transformer), or the new switch-mode supplies that are tiny and light weight. Now most of the HID ballasts out there are of a cigarette pack size. Due to developments in IC's and such, they have now been able to make these ballasts much slimmer. People are marketing these as 'digital'. Don't be fooled though because inside they consist of the same basic electronics, just more miniaturised. If you've noticed lately, switch-mode supplies are getting smaller as well (phone chargers are a good example), so it's not really anything fancy.

Could you see another car there when you took that photo? From the photo, it seems maybe the guy got out (somehow) and is off the the left of the photo as the others that aren't in front of the car have their attention in that direction.

After cleaning mine for the second time this week, I took it out for a drive and dirtied it up. Then I continued my search for things I can do to lighten up my car without making it look like a shell. Doesn't seem like much that I can take out. About the best I could think of today was changing the battery for a Braille No Weight battery. Wow, I never really thought of measuring my rotors as part of my usual checks when I have my wheels off for rotation. I didn't think they would get eaten up at a rate like that. I guess I'll add that to my checklist of things to do in future.

The aim usually comes down to your projector itself. The 'angle' of the HID lamp can make a difference (due to the lens focal point etc) but nearly al the lamps come out at the same spec. All these kits seem to have at least some standard they follow. I would say 4000k would be more likely to be spotted by a cop than 6000k or 8000k mainly because the lower you go in colour temperature, the brighter the light gets. 5300k to 6000k would be the best colour temperature to aim for. Not too bright (still brighter than halogen anyways), and very clean looking light. With projectors, it's much easier to get away with 8000k as well because when you look at them head on, depending on which angle you look at it, they look reasonably white and look no more blue than a proper HID headlight from Honda or BMW. Bear in mind though that 8000k doesn't work so well in the wet. This is why the 5300-6000k would be your best bet.

Despite the fact this is your second for sale post and you've only made 2 posts to your account... I have to ask? How much will you part with it for?

I think all it needs a little loving. I'm sure you will be able to sort it all out, hopefully without breaking the bank. I guess once you get it into a decently drivable state, things should start to fall into place. My eyesight is not the greatest, but to me it looks like the pulley is slightly off axis.

I don't know. I also noticed the same case with the Caribbean Blue (when it was available), in that the Sportivo's always had a darker shade. May have been the way Toyota prepared the paint for Sportivo. Who knows. It's definitely noticeable when you have an AT-X and a Sportivo parked together. Could just be some trick of the eyes.

If anyone has stuck theirs on without painting them... just one word of warning. DO NOT get any wax on it. Once it gets marked with wax, it will leave a mark on it that doesn't go away. When I first got my grill, I put it on without painting. Two weeks later (after the accident), I waxed my car, slipped a bit and got wax on the grill. Left a smudge on it and it didn't go away. Next day I took the grill off and painted it flat black. Seems to be more resistant to waxing accidents now. I had already learnt my lesson with the grill, hence why the eyelids were painted. Despite being the same colour code, that is one thing I've noticed with the non-Sportivo Wildfire. On the AT-X and the Prodigy, the Wildfire seems to be an ever so slightly brighter shade of red. I'm not really sure why that is the case though. Same goes for the Wildfire used on the Camry.

Mine have been colour coded to the grill. In other words, despite already being black to start with, I still pained over it again with flat black. I don't know about everyone else, but I reckon mine is better as black. Photo courtesy of «®olla™»: I just felt like posting that photo for the fun of it.

Hey Ingres...looks hot. when you can are you able to say where you got them done and what cost. PM Drew (the_random_hero). He's the one that posted before you.

Yeah. What Jason said sounds like a good idea. I wouldn't think your MAF could get dirty that easily from an un-oiled filter, but you never know. Maybe as well try cleaning your throttle body. If it only happens when cold, which is when your revs sit a bit higher than normal, a dirty TB could be restricting a bit of that necessary air flow. Just a thought. On a side note, I hate hearing about people getting service departments to look at their car and they come back saying something like "your battery terminal was loose". Seriously. Reminds me of that guy from Boost. You better give those turkeys at Toyota a good mouthful. If you're free tomorrow, I can help you clean both if you want.

They went into this thread: Air intake mods

Recently we have had a thread running not too far down from your new thread here. The tread is: Rear exhausts Yes the title says rear exhausts, but it's currently a bit of a hot topic running on this board, and for someone curious about exhaust related matters, I though you would have checked it out. As you can see, a full system is going to set you back about a couple of thousand at the least which seems to be in line with other 'full exhaust systems' out there for a car of this size. A search of the forum also shows the other possibilites that have been looked at such as a TRD cat-back system for around USD$767. Then you need to add the massive cost of shipping, but this really isn't a 'full system'. Even AUR30N has had his contribution: