DJKOR

Since you went to the effort to remove that, did you swap your vacuum hoses around as well? If you're freeing up the intake, you may as well hear it.

I still have to order mine. I'm a little bit lazy at the moment. Since mine is coming up to that point in time when it is meant to occur, I am keeping a good eye on it. I'm only going to fix it when it gives way. Not because I am THAT lazy, but so I can document the time it fails. I now carry a few bits and pieces in the glove box to (hopefully) fix it temporarily if and when it eventually goes.

I'd be up for a pizza, pasta, etc. Any food as a matter of fact. My preference would be for the week after next though because I may be in Sydney next week. Any Thursday should be fine by me. Gav, something needs to be sorted for tomorrow night. I'm free to catch up earlier if you want to do something.

That one has been out for quite a while. I do think the HP gain is a bit over the top. As well, this is a figure at the flywheel, so the gains at the wheel won't be as much if there were such. The guys in the States have been arguing this one for a bit and their recommendation is that swapping over your stock filter for a K&N panel filter would provide the same benefits. At up to AUD$400, you'd be wasting your money for just a gain in induction sound. You;d be better off getting a custom one made up for cheaper.

That's what powerful bass can do. MTX didn't name the sub+enclosure 'Sledgehammer' for no reason. Bear in mind though that the volume inside is to the level where you will need to scream to a passenger next to you, and even still they won't understand you. I do drive with it at that level quite often believe it or not. I don't even think my gain is set to the correct level either. I reckon that it can go up another notch, but I'm not risking it without an oscilloscope. Yeah mate. Just a stock Aurion with the added extra of an MTX Sledgehammer. Goes to show how well everything is put together. I guess you can't win 'em all. If you want bass and no rattles, you'll need to add weight. That's not really what I want to do, so it's going to be a compromise that I need to make. The rattles on the outside though don't overly concern me. It's just the rattles inside, and it mainly is isolated to that parcel shelf. Tried that before. I think what's happening here is that the plastic itself is the cause of the noise. It's not due to being in contact with another surface, but because the bass gets transferred to it and it vibrates. Padding in between or not, the sound waves still hit it. I think the parcel shelf needs to go. Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load! Gotta love bass. Even with the boot open, it sends vibrations through surrounding items. And no, it's not the sub rattling. I gave up on the videos after this one; I could see a few of my neighbours walk outside to see what was going on: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

Any changes to just the rear muffler are not really going to provide you with any gains in my opinion. If you are wanting to get gains, you will need to work from the engine all the way back, starting at the point at the front where the 'y-pipe' is. Those Borla mufflers though would be good for those that want to get something with a guaranteed and clean fit and don't mind doing it themselves.

Yeah mate. That was one of the things I removed in my intake when I was making everything flow a bit better. There aren't really any gains to be made here. You will just hear everything a little more.

I have a feeling that that is a feature of the camera itself. I used the camera that was supplied with my unit (bumper style) and have no scale on the screen.

That sometimes does the trick actually. Not a bad suggestion. As for me, I find that Kitten upholstery cleaner works alright against light stains on the material that my seats are covered with, including the cloth parts. Ive used it a couple of times with no issues. It's a spray on foam that you rub in lightly, let sit, then remove with a damp cloth, usually a few times to remove all traces of the cleaner.

It's a good track isn't it. I just love the 'waviness' of it. That is beyond tempting, but my current sub is only 400W RMS. That means I would then need a new sub. On top of that, adding more power is just going to rattle my car to pieces. Sound deadening to reduce all that is WAY out of my intended path. Thanks for the offer though. Doesn't feel so good when things sound like this: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

I've been though this before. I'm not changing my rims, cause I go through rubber like there's no tomorrow. I'd like to be different you know :P... instead of trying to look like everyone else. The stock rims are more unique now. If I was really wanting to change rims, I'd probably go for Buddy Club P1's or Drifteks. Someone's got to represent the sporty side of the Aurion, and it doesn't seem like anyone else is going to do it.

Sorry. I am pretty zoned out when I'm in the car and there is traffic around. Only thing I remember seeing along Ann Street was the Asian couple that just got married and having their photo taken at the Uniting Church. While on the spotted thread, yesterday around 2pm I spotted Dave's (DHC09) old Rolla. I waved at whoever was driving it, I could see they had a puzzled look.

Of course if the speedo was showing slower than actual speed, then you should definitley get it fixed. With troubled, I don't think his speedo was innaccurate in this direction based on his wording: With them being out, I think it's more to do as a design consideration. These things are all manufactured and put into cars on an assembly line. Because it would be a bit of a process to calibrate each and every speedo once installed in the car, I think they are all built with up to a 10% tolerance and that is biased towards the 'under side' for safety reasons.

... Adrenalin's do help a bit with the stability. The worst (or best?) feeling is speed limiter at 245km/h (GPS speed; 250km/h on the speedo). It's hard to explain but it's like floating on air. I'm never going up there again.

200km in the Aurion ain't so bad, It's quite stable actually. You only start to feel it get light once you get to 230km/h. Note: The above speed was not obtained on public road. Do not attempt to replicate above speed on public roads.

I guess the way I put it, if I remove 'un-necessary' weight, I guess there is only something to gain. As longs as I don't go overboard, I guess there is no harm. Rowan and I are both aiming to go sub 14. It's more for the fact that we can say it can be done, since a lot of the Aurion's we see doing the 1/4 mile end up around mid 14 or higher. I'm aiming to make mine so that it can do sub 14 and all I need to do is remove my sub and spare. Once the car does that, I'll be hitting up QR, with the car in daily driver state (minus only the sub), and will be getting some times. I'm considering going tomorrow to the drags but not sure if it would be worth it. My tires are not far from their treadwear indicators. I've heard because it is less blocky that it would be better for grip, but wouldn't that also mean that there is less compound remaining in the tire that provides that grip? I guess there would be no harm in trying tomorrow. I'll just drop the pressure at the front as necessary. I have been tempted so many times to 'upgrade' my rims to 18 or 19 inch, but I keep telling myself that it's not worth it, and the tires just seem to double in price by going up just 2 inches. At least with the 17's, performance tires can be had for under $250 a corner. Considering I wore through my current set of Adrenalins in under 20,000km, I would be kidding myself to 'upgrade' to 19 inch where I need to pay $450 a corner.

That's good to hear that your problem could be resolved like that. It's much easier than if it were a bit more serious. Just keep an eye on the levels over the next week to make sure it's not loosing coolant. If it does appear to be losing some coolant, then may be a leak from somewhere. Hoses can wear over time, so if there is a minor leak in one of them, it may be good indication that it's time to inspect them and change them if necessary, or maybe even tightening of a hose clamp. Either way, it's good that you have found the solution.

Most cars, unless otherwise specified, can use automatic transmission fluid (ATF) as power steering fluid. I've always treated the two as the same thing. Most of the time a Dexron III is the minimum recommended (as in not a specific requirement), but this shouldn't be as issue as Dexron IV or higher is more readily available and is a good substitute. In the case of the Camry, is yours auto or manual? If it's auto, the power steering fluid and the ATF may be two different fluids, but that's because of the transmission using a long lasting transmission fluid I believe. Either way though, your off-the-shelf ATF will do the trick for the power steering.

The stock theft deterrent system built into the Aurion wasn't designed to have aftermarket alarm accessories tied onto it. Those accessories ou have provided links to are more for other aftermarket alarms. If either of them are able to provide a N/C or N/O connection when triggered, the only viable option you would have to connect it in with the stock system is to a door switch. So say for example, if the microwave sensor detects movement, it will latch a relay which you will then connect to any of the door switches. Once armed, the car will essentially see this as an open door, then trigger the alarm. Probably your best way to do that. You can't expect much from the stock system.

That was like a 500mL bottle. I couldn't put the bass up any louder because it was making the garage door behind my car vibrate and rattle pretty badly. The neighbours dogs weren't too happy either. Bass seems to pick up more as well with at least some window down, but that wasn't going to happen at this time of the evening. I'll try again tomorrow. Just remember though, I can only go so loud. My amp only pushes out 300W versus your 800W monoblock. P.S. If you want to see how much bass you're pushing, I've got a few selected tracks here that I like for such purposes. Just watch your ears on the first couple cause the mids and highs are pretty powerful as well. Solee - Impressed (very trippy to listen to this song) Alex Guesta - Just Let It Play (it starts at 2 minutes, bass is REALLY low) Dubfire - Roadkill Time to shake that parcel shelf.

I don't really want to know. You do have a little bit of sound deadening on the underside of your parcel shelf though. On top of that, your sub doesn't utilise much of the boot, mainly just the air in front of it and out of the ski hatch. My sub on the other hand is not only ported, so it's be pushing twice as much air as a sealed sub, but it is located in a position that utilises the whole boot space to build up it's bass waves. Every panel gets a beating, and the parcel shelf (as in the plastic that sits over the frame) is the most noticeable inside the car. Like I live for the bass. If I don't feel it shake me inside, it's just not enough for me. I don't think any amount of Dynamat is going to stop this much vibration coming though: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load! LOL. I got a bit carried away with that I think. I guess I can look at it from the other perspective and that is that with the parcel shelf out and the previous sound matting removed, my bass actually went up a notch. On a side note, I'm still taking an in depth look at my car cause I really feel like taking some more weight out. I guess every kg will add up. Okay, now I'm definitely obsessed with this whole weight reduction crap.

If it is your thermostat causing your engine to overheat, then you have two problems on your hand. If you were to have full coolant in your cooling system and the thermostat was stuck closed, yes your engine would overheat, but if you turn your heater up to full, you should have some damn hot air. Did you actually check the level of coolant in the radiator itself, or just the overflow tank? If I were you, I'd wait till the engine was cool then take off the radiator cap and look at the level of coolant in there. It should be up to the top.

A good site to use if you want to compare the measurements is over at: Tire Size Calculator - tire & wheel plus sizing If you plug in the figures, you will see that with the 215/45R17, you're speedo will be out by showing 1.05% faster than with your previous wheels though. With the slight inaccuracy of the speedo though, this wouldn't really make a difference. This tire size is in fact the closest match to the original rolling circumference.

I'm not 100% with my car knowledge, but I thought the only thermostat was the one that controls coolant flow to the radiator. I didn;t think there were any others. Checking your coolant level by the actual coolant reservoir is not an indication of low coolant in the radiator. When the engine is hot, you may find that the coolant in the reservoir may be towards the full side, but when cold, it may be towards the half-way point. If your coolant reservoir looks like that, chances are that your radiator is 100% full and low coolant is not an issue.

It would benefit any grade of the Aurion, however it obviously won't handle like the Sportivo's do with them installed. The suspension on the Sportivo is slightly different to the AT-X, Presara, etc, and because it rides a little stiffer to start with, the benefits of the Ultra Racing gear can really be taken advantage of. It's not to say it isn't a good idea to get it, you just can't expect to throw it into the corner in the same way as the Sportivo.