DJKOR

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but a stuck thermostat would mean that your temperature needle on the dash would be reading colder than usual. On top of that, you would be getting at least some warm air if you turned the head dial up to full as your car wouldn't be running absolutely cold if the thermostat was stuck. If neither of those are happening, I would be suspecting that it isn' the thermostat. Like I said though, I may be wrong. If you had the resources, I'd be aiming to remove the coolant lines going to the heater core (in the engine bay) and trying to connect a hose to it to see if you get any flow though it.

ULTRA RACING AUSTRALIA - Toyota Braces

I find that my speedo being out is more of a proportional thing. In other words, it is out by about 4km/h at 100km/h making that 4%. This 4% stands fairly true throughout the range. So when I am going 40km/h according to the speedo, my GPS displays 38km/h, and at 200km/h, my GPS displays approximately 192km/h. I'd rather have it showing 4km/h under my actual speed since it makes it easier when I need to drop my speed around speed cameras. Though it hasn't saved me from speeding fines however.... but that's another story. But good work job getting them to replace that for you. It certainly isn't a cheap item for them to replace.

I like your thinking. That was kind of along the lines of what I just thought of as I stared at it longer an longer. I was thinking if I could maybe find a parcel shelf from the wreckers and cut the back and front parts of the parcel shelf just so they can clip in, and then use the speaker cloth to go between, kind of like a painting on a canvas, minus to parts of the frame. This way, the cloth will sit elevated so that it clears the speakers and any other things there that protrude. Plus it gives a solid structure around where the seatbelt guides originally are. The sides can be rough since the C-Pillar garnish will cover it. Hmmm.

Okay, now to me this thread feels a little pointless, but nevertheless, I wouldn't mind some suggestions or new ideas. Now I have a ported subwoofer and it can push quite a bit of air (with the ski hatch open you can still feel air 'blowing' through the tiny holes where the child restraints are). As a result, this causes quite a few rattles here an there, mostly all isolated to the parcel shelf. So I got bored all of a sudden and felt like pulling out my parcel shelf to remove the 2.5kg of sound deadener I put in there which only marginally reduced some rattles. While it was out (as per photo below), I decided to try and put my music up loud to see if I could find any more rattles. To my surprise, I could put it up even louder than before, and not get a single rattle inside now. It even seemed to have a bit more kick than before. So it appears to me that the rattle was isolated to mainly the plastic parcel shelf itself, and maybe way way it all joined up. This is where I got my next idea from. Since I don't want to Dynamat anything (I want no more extra weight), I was thinking of what way I could go about fixing the parcel shelf. I thought maybe making a new one out of MDF, but I don't know if that's really going to solve my problem, and it will probably add weight. I was thinking about maybe even removing it all together and putting something else at the back like a carpet material or similar. It's not like I need a solid parcel shelf there as nothing goes up the back. Another thing I was thinking of is maybe stretching a speaker cloth like material over the back somehow so that everything underneath is all hidden. The problem then comes of how I would attach that, especially to the area under the window. Any idea on what alternatives that I can do, or maybe any part experience. No parcel shelf seems like a pretty good solution, but it doesn't look the best.

You can fit both the front strut bar and rear sway bar without having to raise a single wheel... depending on your size. If you aren't small and need extra room, raising the rear up onto jack stands is all you'd need to do to get under there. For the front 4-point brace, I'd definitely say you'd need to raise your car, but only on jack stands at the front. I wouldn't go as far as saying tripled, but I would sure say it's definitely twice as fun.

Wow. Three Aurion owners all in Brisbane with a little bit of licensing issues on their hands. Not the best thing to hear. I'm still worried though that the camera car got me instead. I just hate trying to deal with QT to sort stuff out.

Depends on how you define hard. I reckon as long as you have the tools and patience, it would be simple to DIY. I've fitted the rear sway bar and front strut bar on my own in my garage, and I'm sure that after a bit of swearing, the front 4-point brace wouldn't be that hard either.

The ECU is probably having a bit of trouble trying to adjust to it all again. Try adding a little throttle when you start it. Maybe look at cleaning your throttle body as well. Once again, the ECU is probably yet to adjust to it all again. Also could be that heat issue in the engine bay with the SRI. Only one way to set this all straight though. You and me, to the drags, same time, same conditions, stock(ish) intake vs. SRI.

Now I'm not sure about how the 1ZZ takes care of it's heating so I'll explain two scenario's. You are right in that the heater relies on the engine heat. In cars, a small coolant line (using the same coolant as the engine) runs into the car, through a heater core, then back out to the engine bay. Some cars have a tap on that coolant line going to the heater core so that depending on how much heat you adjust to, the tap adjust proportionally. If your car uses this method, then the issue may either be in that tap itself, or a blockage in the coolant line. Other cars have fixed flow though the heater core at all times and therefore don't have a tap to restrict flow of coolant. In this case, the heater core is isolated and closed off with a vent. When you adjust the heat on the dials, the vent is opened up in proportion to allow more or less flow past the heater core. In this case, the problem could lie within the vent adjustment (newer cars have servo motors, so that is a point of failure), or it could also be a block in the coolant line.

Good stuff Nathan. Once you put all those in though, you're gonna need to get a new set of tires to appreciate the extra stability. If you still got a bit of tread left on your tires at the moment though, it shouldn't be hard to go through it quickly

There are two types of headlights on the Aurion. The first is the bright chrome surrounds used on the AT-X, Touring, Prodigy, & Presara. The second is the darker (tinted) chrome surrounding used on the Sportivo (SX6 and ZR6), and both grades of the TRD. Same goes for the tail lights, except replace bright and dark (tinted) chrome with bright red and dark red. Either way, the level of tinting in the chrome on the Sportivo headlights is very small and definitely enough for some to really want to go ahead and paint it a solid colour.

You're only modifying the non-used part of the headlight though. I can't see how that can give reason for defect. The reflective surfaces of the high beam reflector and the low beam projector remain untouched. There are cars out there (including my sister's Mazda 3), that have black headlight surrounds from factory. Are you sure they didn't actually tint the casing of the headlight? That would be a cause for a defect on the other hand.

Yeah, he did a DIY, minus the photos though: DIY: Blackened headlight surrounds There are many other DIY threads with photos that should be easier to follow. Such thread as: DIY: taking apart headlights

I haven't seen a factory/dealer AT-X fog light install so I can't comment on the gap there. As for those aftermarket kits on the AT-X, I did notice a gap when I did the ones for Ingres, and it didn't look 100%. I'm guessing the gap would probably be the same even on the factory/dealer fitments unless the design of the genuine Toyota fog light itself is a little different. On mine I have a slight amount of gap, but because of the moulding on the front skirt, it hides most of it (excuse the fact they are a bit dirty):

The only other person I head of doing the black headlight mod on the Aurion was 'sportivo chick'. I'm not sure if she took photos of the procedure though, and I haven't heard from her in a while. The procedure though is pretty generic. Any DIY on black headlight surrounds pretty much outlines the basic steps. I have considered it a few times, but decided that I like the grey chrome look inside my lights as it provides a backing for my eyelids to go against.

The factory mounting is exactly the same... just one screw (this is mine): Even the Yaris uses one screw (photo courtesy of KEN33F): As for the angle being incorrect, my fog lights are straight and level, and so are the ones I fitted for Ingres. Stability wise with respect to one screw; my Aurion has been given some pretty rough driving and my fog lights are yet to go out of alignment.

It's JDM yo. Like on the Auris and Vitz.

I would say that you would be using your own car. ... So your not too keen on learning how your car handles, yet you want to strap a blower onto it. <shakes head>

dannywss, you completely missed the point here. For him to get the feature that he wants, he DOES NOT need to get an aftermarket system. The ECU has a feature which can be activated to do exactly what he wants it to do. In this case it will lock at 20km/h: To activate this feature, and/or any other customisation features (the service manuals show what can be done), you need to take it into a Toyota Service Department as they use their Scan Tool for this.

^ That one sure is different and unique. I actually really like it. It looks more sporty and aggressive. I would pick this over their VIP styling any day.

LOL. You're money I guess. If you really think $150 is a fair price. ... LOL... I had to do that again.

I've said this before and I'll say it again. It's just different packaging and different names for the same thing. I can't believe that they can get away with selling something that probably costs them under $20 to make for $400+. That's massive profit: The Sprint Booster or the E-Booster as you have posted don't have any adjustment. They would only be set to one mode similar to the 'Sports' mode I mentioned above.

I think the best way to put this is that you will need to be prepared to spend a fair bit of money just for a slightly better steering wheel. I don't think the Ascent was designed to be driven like a race car you know. I'm pretty sure the steering wheel they provided would have suited it's intended driving style.