DJKOR

The major services for the Aurion are the ones that occur at every 15,000km interval. In the 'Warranty & Service Book' it is listed as 'Maintenance for normal operating conditions'. The minor services are the ones that occur at the 7,500km intervals between the major services. They are listed as 'Additional Maintenance for severe operating conditions. I personally prefer to take it in for the major services, and I do the minor service myself (even though it doesn't get recorded in the log book). As long as you are getting the major services, your warranty will still be fine. For my 45,000km service, this is what is listed to be done: The 30,000km service is pretty much the same except that the brake fluid is also replaced as well. I just fetched my receipt and found that my 30,000km service was actually $301.60 and that was with the $52.25 wheel alignment, bearing in mind I provided my own oil.

I just don't really understand those 'visible' car bras for everyday use. If it were for only when you occasionally had to travel somewhere that really required it then I can understand, but definitely not for driving everywhere. I'm all up for keeping my car in excellent condition, but those black car bras sacrifice so much of the car's look that it just looks plain ugly. Getting the odd stone chip here or there (actually quite frequently on my large front end) I guess is part of the issues that come with owning a car. The car bra is just not my thing. Each to their own I guess.

As far as I'm aware, the screen calibration can only be adjusted when you enter 'NAVI', then select 'Options/Settings'. In there you can enter screen calibration mode. If you can't access that, I really can't think of an alternative. The way a majority of people do this is to strip the insulation back a little bit on the wires that you are 'tapping' into, then soldering the external wire to it. Another option would be to obtain a pack of 'ez-taps', which clip over the wire and require no soldering or special tools. There are many options to this, but if you don't know what you're doing, maybe best to find a mate who does so they can show you. Grounding a wire is simply connecting the wire to the metal mass of the car. The metal frame of your car is connected to the negative terminal of the battery. Connecting to ground this way is the most simple and effective method. Of course you will need to extend the pink wire. I did mine using crimp connectors, but you can also just use solder to connect two lengths of wire together. Once again, if this stuff is out of your league, find a mate who can show you in person. I'm not really here to give a crash course on the basics of electrical work (only because of the whole liability thing). With the camera, you can connect it's power to the reverse light on the boot lid itself. Save on running a couple of metres of un-necessary power cable.

Definitely got my interest. Count me in.

Grrr to you guys. Next time you are get some more of these components, let me know. I'll join in as well... unless of course I get to it sooner. I can't be left behind like this. I really need to get back to the drawing board. My Aurion can not be beat like this.

Hey mate. Welcome to the forums. You should introduce yourself over here. Just out of courtesy, so you don't seem like some random just asking for answers. Anyways: The supplied antenna is a powered type. You connect the red wire to a +12v source (preferably switched with the ignition), and the black wire to ground. Best solution to this, just tap into your cigarette lighter power. Only way to turn this unit off is with the power button on it, or by switching the ignition off. Only so much you can expect from it. At the back of the head unit, the pink wire connects to a source that provides +12v when the car is in reverse. I provided an answer to that question here in the same thread. You need to be a little more specific in your question as well since I am having a bit of difficulty deciphering it. When you mention red and black, I'm assuming that is what is on the camera itself? In that case, you connect that to something that receives power when the car is in reverse. Either reverse light will do the trick. Seems like you performed the calibration offset. If the reset button on the front doesn't solve that, then you will need to hope that you can touch the screen with enough offset to go where you need to go.

Wow. Those are some great photos. Now your man is getting all the credit in this thread. That last photo is smooth. ... and oh yeah; nice car as well.

Wise choice of car mate. You should wait till you wax it with the NXT Wax 2.0. That stuff is tops. Anyways, hope you enjoy your ride. They certainly are a nice car. As a matter of fact, this Wednesday I am taking mine in for it's 45,000km service. I didn't ask for a quote before hand; I'm kind of like that. I'll let you know how much it costs after I get it done. My last major service at 30,000km set me back $309 using my own oil and with a wheel alignment, so I'm expecting no more than $260 this time as I opted to get no alignment. On a side note, I think the centre I'm taking it to (Southside Wooloongabba) is running a holiday special of $195 for the major service. I guess I'll find out.

Don't need to take apart much to wire up your sub. I just wired everything up when I had my car in pieces since it was the most convenient time to do so. All you need to do is firstly take off the door sills and passenger side kick-panel. The door sills just pop off by pulling, and the kick panel has a little knob that secures it; you just unscrew that. Then you remove the glove box assembly (three screws at top when you open it, and two screws at the bottom), followed by the rear seat (just the base of the seat, not the back rest). Once all that is out, the rest should be pretty self explanatory. To save me from typing, here is what I wrote about the seat removal: The way the back seat is held down is quite shocking. In most cars you have a tab you can pull on to release it, but unfortunately on the Aurion it is just a matter of pulling the seat up with some force. There are two 'clips' that hold the seat down and it is best to squeeze your hand as close to the clip as possible and pull up. If you have larger hands, you can use a long screwdriver to lever it up. It's kind of hard to explain; but if you use a torch and look under the front end of the seat while trying to raise it, you will see what I mean. I have included a picture so you can get a general idea of where those clips are (I have circled them in red). Once that is out, you can remove the back rest portion of the seat by removing two bolts that are located near the bottom of the seat belts.

For a long term security, you would buy an immobiliser so that only you can start the car. Easier options would be a hidden switch that cuts the power to the fuel pump so that the car will not run. If you were leaving the car (like while on holiday) and you were that concerned about preventing the car from being started, you just pop the bonnet, go to the fuse/relay box, and unplug the relay labelled 'IGN' or 'EFI'.

Damn, that sounded lethal. It's insane what a 1.8L engine is capable of. I would fear something blowing up if I heard an engine like that.

That's some fine work. The though of sandpaper touching the car makes me shiver. Just doesn't seem natural.

Damn. One reason why I am avoiding 19 inch rims. For the Adrenalins on my 17 inch rims, I got quoted $259 per tyre fitted.

Well actually, the silver bits that you see on the TRD rear skirt are metal. They can easily handle the heat of the exhaust. It is just a car manufacture issue that they don't get too concerned about little things like that. Even look at the stock exhaust for most cars. They put a nice chrome exhaust tip on, but leave the pipe there in the centre. It's not clean at all.

Then I take it that it doesn't matter how much they cost? Otherwise I think that statement needs a revision.

Shame it isn't. The Camry bonnets have this little 'nose' bit on the front.

Yes they point straight into the cutouts in the bumper. The main complaint with that is that you end up with that cutout all dirty from the exhaust emissions. TRD Aurion Owner her has had new mufflers put on and at the same time, had them pointed down towards the ground. Solved that issue.

I haven't personally seen the standard non-6 CD changer myself, but I am willing to bet that your 6 CD changer will be a direct swap into your mate's ATX with no modification. Both units have the exact same requirements from an input/output point of view.

Varex mate. Best of both worlds.

the air intake box thing? lol... noob. LOL. Very good call. RAV3R, you're certainly the noob. You haven't even been around here long enough to understand a joke from Simo.

So when you go to the main menu, when you press setup, you should be able to see the mirror setting amongst the others. If you can't, I don't really know what's up. Might have something to do with my answer to 4. It should default to the last setting used (except NAVI). If I leave it on DVD, it will come back to that. Same with RADIO, TV, and BLUETOOTH. Sorry, haven't had much experience there. From what I remembered, my mates iPod NANO was charged from my head unit. Only ever plugged it in once though and that was the night after I got it. Just download the iGO8 from my previous links. From what I have heard, Tom Tom does not run on units with versions of Windows CE less than 5 (my unit has WinCE 4.2 so Tom Tom is a no go for me either). This leads me to my next point. The fact that yours says 'CAMRY' indicates that this may possibly be an old firmware revision. The later firmwares have just the Toyota logo on load. The issues you are getting may possibly be related to that.

I'll be out as well. Got no reason not to be.

^ LOL. That was quite an entertaining read there. Anyways, good decision you made in the end.

Bubble tea in general is just basically flavoured iced tea. In most cases though, you will usually get a 'topping' with it and this is then the general reference to bubble tea. There is a large variety of flavours you can get and for some people, it is quite addictive. There are also a large range of toppings you can get, for example 'pearls', which are balls of tapioca that are about 1cm in diameter, or jelly. This diagram here shows the general composition of a bubble tea:

LOL. Sorry 'bout the late thank you; but yeah, thanks for the answer. Makes complete sense though. I never thought of it in the sense of how the volume of the cylinder can remain the same but with different widths/heights. I guess I didn't think quite outside the box. You can guess who failed maths.