trentmeyer23

Just post it once, thanks. Without a VIN, it will be hard to find.

If you put petrol in it, it has spark plugs. If you put diesel in, it doesn't. Fuel injection is irrelevant in their argument. Do not listen to that friend ever again. More information is required regarding the fault. A video would be helpful.

As long as you get everything attached to the engine, you should have everything plus the ECU. A brake upgrade will also be required for legality reasons.

Could be a bent shift fork, possibly the reverse lockout mechanism. Either way; from what you describe, it sounds like the box may have to come out for inspection.

There is a possibility that some of the driveline mounts could be getting soft due to age; however if it is concerning to you, have a mechanic take a look.

It sounds like the engine torque is engaging the driveline. This sounds like normal behaviour. Have you driven an auto before?

$17,000+ for that turbo build.

Torque: 19 N–m (195 kgf–cm, 14 ft–lbf)

You can, but it would probably be cheaper to buy a TRD Aurion. Remember, it's not just the supercharger required.

Injectors, injector seals and oil pickup.

In short, by keeping the fuel system and carby as cool as possible. If you Google fuel boil or vapour(vapor for American examples) lock fixes, you should find some helpful answers. You can try to cool the lines, pump and carby with some cold wet rags. That should give you an indication.

The fuel could very well be boiling in the float bowl/vapour locking.

EFI or Carby?

End of financial year is your best bet generally. The amount you get off the price will depend on your ability to haggle.

Probably not correct etiquette, but it sounds like he overreacted at the situation as well. I am more stunned that you would use one of those rubbish Coles carwashes in the first place.

This thread may help, since the chassis is almost identical. http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/36659-aurion-pull-left-issue-explained/

Haggling, that's how it's done.

1) Loosen the throttle cable adjusting nuts(the ones that attach to the throttle body) and disconnect the outer cable from the mounting bracket. 2) Rotate the throttle lever and disconnect the inner cable(via the slot in the cable guide). 3) Disconnect the throttle cable from the support brackets on the firewall. 4) Remove the retaining screws and remove the lower driver's side dash trim. 5) Pull back the rubber boot on the top of the pedal. 6) Disengage the retaining clip and remove the cable from the pedal. 7) Remove the bolts retaining the cable flange to the firewall and withdraw the cable from the engine compartment.

Possibly a shift fork.

Both are viable options.

Probably replace it.

Possibly. You may have to have an auto electrician take a look at it.

That entirely depends on your skill level.

Is this a serious question?

Check all fuses and the main fusible link.