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amps n subs .. what are ppl runnign ?


anthoboi

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hey guys .. saving up money for a amp and sub .. what are ppl running and what are the cost that im gonna look at ..

gonna run stock HU with stock speakers ... with amp and sub .. :P

thanks guys

anthony

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hey dude!hmm im running Amp BOSS = quite cheap and good but noisy fan, Sub Clarion 12" (bought it $70 with box on midnite sale at autobarn).

recommended:

amp = boss or look around ebay always been the last resource

sub = clarion, kicker and so on...well gud luck

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im running a double din kenwood dvd player + alpine type S powered by a 2chan pioneer amp (bridged) : ) and im happy with that. im not too fussy with speakers bcoz speakers will mean more money for speakers ( splits ) and a 4 channel or so amp : )

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hiya..

im also running off my stock head unit (which cant play cds no more for some reason)

details of my amps n speakers can be found below on my signature avatar thingy just under this sentence.

Edited by JJCRU23R
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very nice guys ..

in a abouts a month time im planning to change all my speakers to MTX .. .splits in the front and 2 normal 6's in the rear door ... MTX amp and a sub 10" or 12" not sure ...

what u guys think ?

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couldnt be happier with my sub and its only 8inch square. supposedly makes bass equivilent to a 10inch round sub.

if you want decent all around sound instead of deafening *DOOF*DOOF*DOOF* then i dont believe you need 2 get a 12inch.

but yea on a side note i think size doesnt matter in this case.. people just like to say "hey mines 12inchs!"

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I don't know about you guys, but for me I believe getting splits and then HU would be followed by an amp would be better then splits, amp then HU.

From my experience speakers made the most amount of difference followed by the HU. After that I sound deadened my doors and the mid bass increased quite dramatically. After that I decided to amp my speakers......and to be honest it didn't make much of a difference on a daily listening level....its only when you crank it up really really loud that the difference is noticeble, which I might add is dangerous while driving.

I'll be trying to attend the meet this upcoming saturday, so if anyone is interested I'll give you a listen. It doesn't have a sub or amp.......so current setup is HU, Splits and Sound deadening.

Too lazy to install the amp as thats the amount of difference it makes.......and couldn't be bothered with the sub atm as well

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you have a point there...

i tested out my speakers via the stock wires and they sounded fine! after that i wired up the amp to the 3way punchs and ive set the amp to nearly the lowest setting it can go coz it got 2 damn loud 4 everyday driving.

i havent sound deadened at all yet so maybe when i got the cash or someone starts giving it away 4 free (yea right)...

but yea. amping up the front speakers isnt entirely necessary. i have gone though all the trouble of installing the stuff myself but i see no point in taking it back out.

your choice though.. do what you gotta do 2 fulfil your needs

Edited by JJCRU23R
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I got sick of running the wires though, I've done it in my conquest twice and it took me quite a bit of fussing and alot of cursing to get it through the rubber tube connecting the door to the rest of the car. But an amp is worth it, It does sound a lot clearer....clarity is better, but a HU would be first then the amp. The stock HU is crap, its not clear and in terms of control there isn't any at all. If it had decent levels of control then I would consider keeping it.

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im running 2 pioneer shallow type sub off a pioneer monoblock and alpine type R splits off an older kenwood 4 ch and also amp the rear 6" stockies (soon to upgrade)

JVC head unit with a tiny 3" screen up front.

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Source Unit: Pioneer MP3 player (can't remember which model)

Front Speaker(s): 4" Kenwood 2way (disconnected).... 6.5" JBL 70RMS splits in custom DIY pods

Rear Speaker(s): 6x9 Kenwood 3way (one of them is ripped, it's getting removed and upgraded)

Sub: 1 x 12" Clarion 600W sub

Amplifier(s): 1 x Schneider 2x250W bridged to sub... 1 x Cadence FX604 4x200W powering splits and 6x9z

Other: CarPC 2.4GHz Celeron 384Mb RAM 70Gb HardDrive... Jaycar 7" Touchscreen (controling the mouse)

Cable: 8guage stinger... to be upgraded soon to 1guage

Sound Deadening: Laaaaater lol

this is like 1/4 of the complete system... but its good enough for me to start spending money on other things... think IDMAX and others... think 2250RMS... think SQ

:D

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I got sick of running the wires though, I've done it in my conquest twice and it took me quite a bit of fussing and alot of cursing to get it through the rubber tube connecting the door to the rest of the car.

i had the same problem with the wiring in the doors until i found an easier way of getting the wires through the rubber gasket thingo. its kinda hard 2 explain without havign to literally demonstrate it. im not willing to pull apart my car at this moment especially coz its raining atm... but ive taken a pic of the general area and drew up what you should do.

the pic ive taken is from the passenger door. the wires that run through to this door (on my car) are:

electric windows

stock speaker wires

so what you gotta do is -

1. identify all wiring that runs from the door to inside the car

2. locate the end of the wires that is found inside the car

3. disconnect the wires from this end.

4. do the same with the other end of the wires - disconnect wires from inside the car

because all the wires are disconnected, it is much easier to pull the gasket out.

you will probebly need a flat screwdriver to persuade the gasket to detach.. much the same way you would use a spoon to take the lid off a can of milo.

the gasket is rubber.. its strong and it can bend, so you wont damage it at all.

once thats done, pull the gasket towards you so that the gasket and wiring hangs loose.

when its loose, you can easily feed the new wires through!

to run new wires through the gasket:

1: poke a LONG flat ended screwdriver through the gasket

(make sure you have the correct length of wiring and feed it through the hole that leads to the gasket)

2. sticky tape the new wire to the end of the screw driver

3. pull the screwdriver back out of the gasket- the new wires should have logically been fed through with the screwdriver.

4. pull the rest of the wire through the gasket

5. reconnect all wiring inside the car

6. push gasket back into place on the car side

7. reconnect wires in the door

8. pull the wires in... this will cause the gasket to be put back into place

DSCF1590.jpg

wish i took pics of me doing this while i was installing my punch's... but once i figured out how 2 pull out the wires and the gasket properly, it took a matter of MINUTES to complete.. instead of hours trying 2 fiddle around with the very LIMITED space your fingers have tryign 2 guess your way through.

Edited by JJCRU23R
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i learnt by tearing my car (and my previous car) apart 2 see where the wires led to...(then putting it all back together of course) and by asking around up in here. therez heaps of helpful people in here!

its easy 2 learn if you really wanted 2.

ps - HOPE YOU APPRECIATE THE PIC I POSTED (look up)... i accidentally left my interior lights ON last night after taking that pic... battery went flat n i required a jump start. :P

Edited by JJCRU23R
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Same same, I learnt by tearing my car apart too....but nothing broke so i was fortunate i suppose.

Only problem for me was that because I had already sound deadened the doors, it proved even more difficult to fiddle around.......and the limited space, means plenty of cuts on the hand and arm :(

I've left my interior lights on before and my car has always started up no problems....

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well it wasnt just 1 light.. it was the middle interior light as well as the 2 frontseat lights located near the rear view mirror.

but this wasnt the first time ive left lights on in the car overnight either.

the cars gone just over 40000 since 2003.. never changed the battery and ive had 2 amps 2 power up for the last few months... the first amp went in about october last year?

so yea wasnt suprised that the car couldnt start when i turned the key after leaving all the lights on overnight

if anyone knows where to get them yellow car batteries.. the 1s that are supposedly meant 2 last longer than regular batteries... can you let us know where you can get em in west sydney metro area?

Edited by JJCRU23R
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i know that FHRX studios sell em... Odyssey batteries and Optima batteries... dual cycle batteries etc etc... but i think they'r in the east

but try callin up reputable audio stores n stuff they might stock them or at least know who stocks them...

n yea i think everyone learns by tearing the car apart... n most cars r similar so if u'v worked on one car it shouldnt be too hard to do another... i'v opened up maybe every single panel in the car hahaha

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Check signature.

A considerable amount of money went into the splits, the source and the installation. And that's just the way it should be.

CAA (or Mobile Electronics now) were selling Optima batteries as well, the Yellow Tops I believe. I have a Blue Top and it's great (apart from having to get a custom clamp made up to fit it).

Edited by Nunga_08
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  • 3 weeks later...

Alpine CDA-9853 Head unit

Alpine MRD-M605 mono amp

Alpine 10" type r sub

atm the setup is nice with the stock speakers as i don't really pump it up much. Soon might be getting the type r fronts and rears to complete the system.

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