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Posted

I know the usual method of breaking in a brand spanking new car, is to take it real easy on the acceleration for the first 1000kms

just to make sure the engine is broken in and crap...

But i was speaking to a toyota dealer today who said that with the aurion that is not the case!

Aurions come already broken in so you don't have to spend your first 1000kms of your 200kw car driving like a grandma.

He even said that it might be a positive thing to open it up a little (being diplomatic for forum reputation reasons)

because the ECU remembers how you drive and adjusts accordingly...

Can anyone confirm this??

Bottom line is I want to know if i can push the revs as soon as i get my brand new car that I've spent big $$$'s on. Or if I have to be really conservative with it until the first service?

Posted
I know the usual method of breaking in a brand spanking new car, is to take it real easy on the acceleration for the first 1000kms

just to make sure the engine is broken in and crap...

But i was speaking to a toyota dealer today who said that with the aurion that is not the case!

Aurions come already broken in so you don't have to spend your first 1000kms of your 200kw car driving like a grandma.

He even said that it might be a positive thing to open it up a little (being diplomatic for forum reputation reasons)

because the ECU remembers how you drive and adjusts accordingly...

Can anyone confirm this??

Bottom line is I want to know if i can push the revs as soon as i get my brand new car that I've spent big $$$'s on. Or if I have to be really conservative with it until the first service?

i waited till 5000kms to break in. now she got out of her 10000kms service with thicker oil and new filter and now she runs like a beast.

Posted

i would not take any chances expecially having worked my ***** off for some big $$$'s. i would drive like a grandma and about the ECU remembering your driving style is true. but the ecu can be reset so i would drive like a grandma for the first 1000km's and then do a ECU reset and drive it hard for about 300km's and then your driving style will be remembered by the ECU. then your all sweet to go. its just the way i would do it. and show us some pics when you receive your new ride.

Posted
i would not take any chances expecially having worked my ***** off for some big $$$'s. i would drive like a grandma and about the ECU remembering your driving style is true. but the ecu can be reset so i would drive like a grandma for the first 1000km's and then do a ECU reset and drive it hard for about 300km's and then your driving style will be remembered by the ECU. then your all sweet to go. its just the way i would do it. and show us some pics when you receive your new ride.

Agree. Drive it like a grandma. After the first 1,000kms change the oil and filter (even if the book says you don't need it till 15,000kms). That should be about it.

If it's only a lease car then fang it till your hearts content. :P


Posted
That guys right......drive it like you stole it. cars are run in from factory anyway.

jump on any car performace forums and you will see answer. wrx, evo. I had and article

here it is have a read

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Lol, ben... I jumped on to copy the exact same site

looks like you beat me to it!

http://www.toyota.com.au/toyota/vehicle/Fr...84_1392,00.html

Most people who know a little more about cars just said jump in and drive as you like, and as you would most of the time

dealers and mechs included... no need to run in like you did with older cars.

Posted (edited)

Umm I have issues with the ideas forwarded in that article... when you buy the car they put shyte quality oil in their so all engine parts bed, this is a fact. Any mechanic who has done a rebuild will tell you this, you dont thrash a new engine because of the ECU, an adaptive ECU is just that, it will adapt once you can start opening the engine up in the future (for older engine/ECU, then you manually reset)... so the disadvantages far outweight the advantages. And even if you dont believe this, why the hell would you risk it... be patient for a 1000km.... you have nothng to gain but all to lose

Edited by aussie_camry
Posted
Umm I have issues with the ideas forwarded in that article... when you buy the car they put shyte quality oil in their so all engine parts bed, this is a fact. Any mechanic who has done a rebuild will tell you this, you dont thrash a new engine because of the ECU, an adaptive ECU is just that, it will adapt once you can start opening the engine up in the future (for older engine/ECU, then you manually reset)... so the disadvantages far outweight the advantages. And even if you dont believe this, why the hell would you risk it... be patient for a 1000km.... you have nothng to gain but all to lose

What you say about the ECU is true, I have friend who occasionally drives his parents lexus is350 when she's out of town, just for a change. He tells me that after a while from him driving it, the car's ECU adapts quickly to how he drives it. This doesn't take more than a couple of drives.

Posted
Umm I have issues with the ideas forwarded in that article... when you buy the car they put shyte quality oil in their so all engine parts bed, this is a fact. Any mechanic who has done a rebuild will tell you this, you dont thrash a new engine because of the ECU, an adaptive ECU is just that, it will adapt once you can start opening the engine up in the future (for older engine/ECU, then you manually reset)... so the disadvantages far outweight the advantages. And even if you dont believe this, why the hell would you risk it... be patient for a 1000km.... you have nothng to gain but all to lose

Well I can tell you that your car has already been thrashed before it even gets to the dealer. Why ? well all cars come off a boat that need to be unloaded. I see it with my own eyes workers thrashing cars off the boat because there on a tight schedule. for some funny reason I don't think they would warm the engine up before driving it off.

Why and how do you determine thats its **** quality oil.....they put in from factory ? why would Toyota put **** oil to bed there engine parts. should be the opposite in my opinion.

What has an ecu got to do with running your engine in ?. you disconnect your battery for 30mins and drive again it will adapt to your driving style...the same as when you put unleaded compared to premium unleaded to BP ultimate thats the ecu purpose.

Just cause you strap you car at the start does not mean it will burn extra fuel for the rest of its life.......

Tell me service intervals for a camry are 15000km, are you a person that will do it every 7500km or wait till 15000km. keep doing it at 15000km ?

Posted

I remember when i bought my car new. That first oil change i remember my mechanic showing me the amount of metal shards and other crap that was in the in there. I dont want to be thrashing the motor with all that floating around

Posted (edited)

Ben_Yu... these are the facts, not my opinion. The above poster highlighted one reason why, in the process of the parts bedding metal shavings do occur... its meant to, thats why they use poor quality oil so the parts fit perfectly into place so to speak. By thrashing it early on, you wear off more of the parts then you should be for the wearing in process... thus decreasing engine life.

In relation to the additional points you made... by thrashing the car easly sure you may not feel the repocussions for a while, but it will reduce the longetivity of the car, as I just mentioned above. As for intervals, yes I change me oil earlier, a serval interval is the maxium you leave it to... oil only breaks down once its in the engine, synthetic oils are better because they have detergents in them etc and do last longer, but at the end of the day they are breaking down as you drive and do not lubricate the engine as well they do from day 1. I linked an article on oils a while back, find it and all your questions are answered. The more oil changes the better... however its an issue of practicality on how frequently you do. Also of note is that in the past I believe Toyota had 20,000km intervals which was a contributor to the oil sludge issues with the 1MZ issue... remember they want to increase intervals as a form of product differentiation 'oh less costs'... doesnt mean its better for the engine, in fact its in ther interest that it lasts so your satisfied but doesnt go for to long and delay a resale in the future!

Edited by aussie_camry
Posted

i've got my 15000km aurion service coming up in a couple of weeks... so what kind of work should they be doing?

Posted (edited)

Umm isnt the work covered in the service books?

Normally I would expect

Oil+filter

Full inspection

Tyre Rotations if required

Top up fluids

Edited by AcoustiK
Posted
Umm isnt the work covered in the service books?

Normally I would expect

Oil+filter

Full inspection

Tyre Rotations if required

Top up fluids

erm.. haven't looked :unsure:

Posted
i've got my 15000km aurion service coming up in a couple of weeks... so what kind of work should they be doing?

A bit confusion - the book says 7500 and 15000 - my sticker (after the first free service) says 10000 and my fleet manager also say 10000. Anyway I will book mine for 10000 to see the "real world".

BH

Posted
i've got my 15000km aurion service coming up in a couple of weeks... so what kind of work should they be doing?

A bit confusion - the book says 7500 and 15000 - my sticker (after the first free service) says 10000 and my fleet manager also say 10000. Anyway I will book mine for 10000 to see the "real world".

BH

mine has had its 10000km service last week. ive got to say the car is a bit more smoother and response is quicker which is a good sign and if you drive normally the car doesnt pass 2000 revs. before the service it use to be near 2000 or just a little over between gear changes but now the engine is even more relaxed. now i can rev it freely.

Posted

I did noticed the sticker saying 10000km but also remember the service tech saying "see you at 15000km"... so I made my own judgement and servicing the car at 13000km (really just 6wks of driving anyhow)

Posted (edited)
....... but the ecu can be reset so i would drive like a grandma for the first 1000km's and then do a ECU reset ........

Lots of talk of an ECU Reset. I thought the ECU was purely adaptive. How do you do a manual reset?

Edited by JRC
Posted (edited)
....... but the ecu can be reset so i would drive like a grandma for the first 1000km's and then do a ECU reset ........

Lots of talk of an ECU Reset. I thought the ECU was purely adaptive. How do you do a manual reset?

Cut the power Unplug the battery source leave it for awhile till the capacitors drains out of juice.

Edited by AcoustiK

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