Some pics about my Aurion AT-X after a little bit tuned...

[selyaT]

No personal comments coming from me boys, just saying I enjoy a modified Aurion as much as I enjoy a modified Corolla, MR2, Celica or Chaser. Others don't share the same passion and that's the way it goes sometimes.

Anyway I'll be lurking around your section every now and again checking out the work of people like Brabus, Darius and Bondie. Keep it coming fellas Toyota pride

[Brabus]

Thanks to all!Because everybody have been advocated me!

[beaves]

No personal comments coming from me boys, just saying I enjoy a modified Aurion as much as I enjoy a modified Corolla, MR2, Celica or Chaser. Others don't share the same passion and that's the way it goes sometimes.

Anyway I'll be lurking around your section every now and again checking out the work of people like Brabus, Darius and Bondie. Keep it coming fellas Toyota pride

Toyota pride all the way!!!

I only retorted because I honestly thought that there is nothing wrong with putting pictures up of your pride and joy in here, seeing as though it is the Aurion folder..............You have to admit, without trying to offend or generalise, most of us Aurion owners would be a tad older than some in the corolla folder (family people, needing a tad bigger car and all), which pretty much lends us to having absolutely FA spare time to filter through the Members ride section. I come in here once a day for 5-10mins, i don't have the time for much more, I want to be able to see pictures of A's with relative ease and that means that to help me, they need to be posted in here. I wasn't trying to be overly negative, but I thought it was a tad harsh to bring up that this should be posted in the members ride section...............

[Adrian]

I know we are moving from the topic. But maybe the members rides should have sub sections, eg. by model ?

[BONDIE]

I know we are moving from the topic. But maybe the members rides should have sub sections, eg. by model ?

Good idea Adrian, are we able to re-stucture the website to accomadate that, for the convience of viewing the members ride section?

[tOyOta123]

Hey Brabus,

Nice work with your ATX Aurion!

I have been thinking about doing something similar as well, just wondering if you can show some photos of your wiring for the Power cable from the battery to the back (boot) of your Aurion.

In my old car (Toyota Paseo, yes big jump in power and size) I had a similar wiring to the one showed in my attachment.

What I always found diffcult is from the engine bay or from the side fender (above the front wheel) where would I pass the power cable to so that it will come out inside the car somehow, I noticed the aurion has a thigh foam on the side when I open the driver's door.

Some info aided by photos would be greatly appreciated, it will save me hours dicking around for how the heck I'm going to wire the power cable.

Cheers,

[dannywss]

I had a similar wiring to the one showed in my attachment.

What I always found diffcult is from the engine bay or from the side fender (above the front wheel) where would I pass the power cable to so that it will come out inside the car somehow, I noticed the aurion has a thigh foam on the side when I open the driver's door...

hi, i have not seen someone wiring the power cable that way..(others are just normal wiring) It seems to be more troublesome..

try from battery, keep going along the passenger side, locate at black rubber look thingy at the wall, that leads into the car, cut a little opening(later seal back again), stick the cable into there, you will somehow know where it will come out from(inside the car).

(this is what normally people do, i think)

[tOyOta123]

I had a similar wiring to the one showed in my attachment.

What I always found diffcult is from the engine bay or from the side fender (above the front wheel) where would I pass the power cable to so that it will come out inside the car somehow, I noticed the aurion has a thigh foam on the side when I open the driver's door...

hi, i have not seen someone wiring the power cable that way..(others are just normal wiring) It seems to be more troublesome..

try from battery, keep going along the passenger side, locate at black rubber look thingy at the wall, that leads into the car, cut a little opening(later seal back again), stick the cable into there, you will somehow know where it will come out from(inside the car).

(this is what normally people do, i think)

Hi Dannywss, powering the head unit direct to battery is troublesome for some but I did it so I force myself to remember to turn off the head unit and hide the detachable face and to isolate it from the rest of the car's electronics.

The Entry point and exit point are there to indicate diffcult wiring area where I had to put the wire into the chassis and come out somewhere inside the car (sorry if i confused you about the "exit point"), yes I normally have the cable along the passager side thats the easy part.

I normally have audio and power cables are on opposite sides so I dont get interference, I hated the engine sound in the speaker, very ignoring.

I know you know all that I have said above but I'm not sure which part you think is troublesome so I thought I explain my diagram a bit more.

Thanks for the suggestion, I was hoping I wouldn't have to cut anything but looks like I have to now.

Cheers,

[DJKOR]

I had a similar wiring to the one showed in my attachment.

What I always found diffcult is from the engine bay or from the side fender (above the front wheel) where would I pass the power cable to so that it will come out inside the car somehow, I noticed the aurion has a thigh foam on the side when I open the driver's door...

hi, i have not seen someone wiring the power cable that way..(others are just normal wiring) It seems to be more troublesome..

try from battery, keep going along the passenger side, locate at black rubber look thingy at the wall, that leads into the car, cut a little opening(later seal back again), stick the cable into there, you will somehow know where it will come out from(inside the car).

(this is what normally people do, i think)

Hi Dannywss, powering the head unit direct to battery is troublesome for some but I did it so I force myself to remember to turn off the head unit and hide the detachable face and to isolate it from the rest of the car's electronics.

The Entry point and exit point are there to indicate diffcult wiring area where I had to put the wire into the chassis and come out somewhere inside the car (sorry if i confused you about the "exit point"), yes I normally have the cable along the passager side thats the easy part.

I normally have audio and power cables are on opposite sides so I dont get interference, I hated the engine sound in the speaker, very ignoring.

I know you know all that I have said above but I'm not sure which part you think is troublesome so I thought I explain my diagram a bit more.

Thanks for the suggestion, I was hoping I wouldn't have to cut anything but looks like I have to now.

Cheers,

Just from reading that, I hope you didn't connect both your head units ignition (standard red) and constant power (standard yellow) directly to the battery; since even though you are turning the head unit off with its power button, it still will draw a bit of power (more than when the power is cut to the ignition wire). Otherwise, why do you need to remind yourself to turn it off if it is already going to do so when you turn the ignition off?

As for where to run the cables, I agree with dannywss. There is a grommet on the passenger side next to the ECU in the engine bay and located behind the distribution panel behind the glove box. You just poke the cable through there and that way you can run it cleanly from front to back. I had difficulty putting it through there at first and actually considered going through the side then into the door area, but after getting the assistance of my Dad (always helps to have two people when cabling through the firewall), I was eventually able to push the cable through the grommet.

Even though the cables aren't going to be seen, it's just good practice to make it all neat (and it reduces the amount of cable that is exposed to potential wear). In addition to that, by running it that way, you reduce the distance that the cable has to run along. I guess I had a little bit of an advantage though considering I had completely gutted the inside of my car and ran all the cables I could while it was in that state.

Edited June 10, 2008 by DJKOR

[dannywss]

DJKOR has helped me explained in better english :)

If you still dont understand, ask again.

Also, why connect HU straight to battery? i didnt suggest that.

nor i suggested anything about the entry and exit point, as they are all normal. The ONLY thing is that, to save u some problem, do as DJKOR said regarding the power cabling.. Which i think is wat people normally do..

Good luck

[Brabus]

Hi everybody,last week i have been upgrade my audio system with JL CleanSweep CL441 dsp and Denon Amplifer 500W RMS Class A Mosfet (use for my Sub JL Audio)...Old JL A4300 ampliper I only use for 4 speakers (JL TR690 & MB Quart DCF 169).Now my audio system really better than!

Some pics!

[dannywss]

suggestion~~

Change this to a discoball!!!! duff duff duff~~ heyyy~~

p/s: actually i did the same with my setup~

[Brabus]

More information about JL Audio CleanSweep® CL441dsp: JL Audio website

Edited June 12, 2008 by Brabus

[tOyOta123]

Hi DJKOR & Dannywss,

Thanks for the info, it will come handy when i get around to do the cabling.

With regards to connecting the HU direct to the battery, I did it so:

- more power & pure power, not going through relays here & there and reduce noise in the system (bad experince with my other old car Toyota T-18).

- for historical reason: In my T-18, the factory setup had the cigarette lighter on the same fuse as the stereo, when my phone car charger blew the fuse, I lost sound.

- Reminding myself to turn off the HU also meant I would remind myself to hide the detachable face for the HU so some wise guy would'nt come and nick the system. It might sound a bit silly but it gave me two reasons to remember and I never had a break in.

Oh... on the topic of sound systems, DO you think the sub-woofer(s) sound better facing the front or back in the boot of the Aurion (sedan)? I know it sounds awesome in my T-18 hatch back facing the back, it pounds!!!

Keep up with the great work Brabus.

Cheers Guys!

[DJKOR]

I can understand your viewpoint about wiring directly to your battery. I have some things I do as well as a force of habit that some people find irrelevant, but I feel would have an advantage. Each to their own I guess.

As for the sub location, I haven't really played around too much with the orientation, but in this setup (as well as in my old Camry), I have found that facing the front gives off the most vibrations originating from the rear parcel shelf area. I too find that having the sub facing the back gives probably the best results, but also facing to the side (from the furthermost point possible) comes pretty close as well. At this point in time, my subwoofer is firing sideways and towards the back; and I don't plan on changing that orientation either. It's hard to explain how its facing, so I took a photo instead. This has given me the best comprimise between vibration at high powers, bass, and usable space in the boot (which I rarely use anyways). I have recently removed my parcel shelf and layered some bitumen based sound deadener underneath which has reduced a lot of the buzzing and vibrations and have since then been able to put my bass up much louder.

[tOyOta123]

Thanks DJKOR,

Thats very interesting and helpful to know, I will try your setup.

Cheers.

[dannywss]

When we come to the position of the subwoofer, there is a LOT of homework to study and done.. sub's correct setup is influenced by not only position and facing, also box design, pod or enclosed, and the hardest of all, reflex.

From the look of your setup and system, it doesnt seem you are looking for the COMPETITION QUALITY kinda sound system, so the position/facing will be just determined by your personal preference and design/look/space you want for your boot. Either close to the back for more space, make the box small as possible(small and thin) or medium (huge but thin) or large(huge and thick, less likely)

You can go search on google, i once found a very detailed on how to find yourself, the place for sub box and building the correct box for correct sub.

Basically, a sub comes with a recommended box design, so just follow. Then connect the sub, feeding appropriate power, then start testing.

Testing as in placing the sub in the boot at different places, different direction, of even if u like, DOWNWARDS(WHO KNOWS??? :D )~~ then look for the most correct/suitable sound that YOU feel is "RIGHT"-different people may have different result. (remember to sit at the driver seat, coz sound system is always for your personal liking..

Shouldnt take u long, like 1 day? thats how long it took me, and i found.. not that much difference :P Simply bcoz the box is correctly done and properly.

if this is too much to read, then dont bother searching the thingy that i refer to search in google..

[LEGEND888]

a little bit of tune did u say?? :P... man... somehow i like aurion ... ;)

[DJKOR]

Good point there as well dannywss. As he said, for such a situation, it all comes down to personal preference. If you're not going for competition sound levels, you can get away with multiple positions for subwoofer placement. Another varying factor you will come across is your type of music. You may find that certain panels in your car resonate at different frequencies to others. Some songs utilise different ranges of low frequencies more than others and can make certain panels buzz more than usual when sound waves reflect off them after they have gained some amplitude. Like he said, you're just best to experiment and see what suits you best. I just provided my setup since that was my personal opinion (which is what you asked). Everyone has to right to do whatever they want and opinions can help give you a starting point.

[Adrian]

Hi,

How do you secure the sub. in the boot. By brackets & screws ?? Or doesw the carpet on carpet grip.

I just a have a box of crap in the boot, but always slides around, which is anoying.

Thanks

[DJKOR]

Hi,

How do you secure the sub. in the boot. By brackets & screws ?? Or doesw the carpet on carpet grip.

I just a have a box of crap in the boot, but always slides around, which is anoying.

Thanks

The carpet in the boot is kinda grippy, but not to the way I drive. Mine is tied down with some jockey strap which is attached to a portion of the car body behind the "wall carpet" around the area of the wheel well. Stops it from flying from one end of the boot to the other like it did before. Makes it easy to remove should I need to access the spare tire.

[dannywss]

to secure the box, either screw up the metal part OR using sticking strip(the black thingy) to stick the box to the carpet floor, IF the box is covered with carpet.

[Adrian]

Thanks guys

[Brabus]

I'm so sorry everybody who ask me about my sound system because I don't know how can i explain for you about my audio system!I'm oversea student and now i'm still studying english,my english isn't well but if you wanna try to make audio system like me or wanna try to listen my sound system you can come to my house i'll show for you...I live in Melbourne,VIC 3020...Thanks!

[v8toy]

mines in got 2 12'' subs in a twin box with the 2 amps screwed to the back of the box were u can see them and they stay cool enough they then slide between the wheelarches in the boot and face out good sound not rattles once i fixed the no. plate rattle lol and looks the part too and still have plenty of room for the shoppin and eskys/motox gearbag