alpine

[stinky]

hi guys

just wondering where i can get a cheap alpine cda 9886 hu and i want a gwd recommended alpine 4 channel amp.

cheers

[Eargunk]

I got mine for about 420 (i think rrp was 500 or something, cant remember but i saved about 100$), but i would go to jbhifi or something and say "northfield (or any other place) is selling it for me for 420, can you beat it? and they would usually say, i only can drop to so and so, and you say, ill think about it and come back later on (so it doesnt look suspicious).

with your amp, it really depends on your speakers, if their factory, dont even bother, but aftermarket, its better to have one than not have one (head unit puts out 12rms compared to an amps 50rms, a cheap one that is). I would go for the Mrp-f600 (its better to over power your amp than to under power it, it puts less stress on the amp resulting in less heat built up on it. but if you got money, grab a PDX

PDX:

Underrated amp (it says 100rms but the True rms is 140)

Less heat build up

stackable

Compact in size

V-power:

Cost effective

Amp is genuine 100rms if rated (true rms would about higher than 100rms and not lower (alpine doesnt lie about their amps, this resulted in their recall of MRP-M2000s)

heat builds up more compared to PDX,

slightly big.

[stinky]

I got mine for about 420 (i think rrp was 500 or something, cant remember but i saved about 100$), but i would go to jbhifi or something and say "northfield (or any other place) is selling it for me for 420, can you beat it? and they would usually say, i only can drop to so and so, and you say, ill think about it and come back later on (so it doesnt look suspicious).

with your amp, it really depends on your speakers, if their factory, dont even bother, but aftermarket, its better to have one than not have one (head unit puts out 12rms compared to an amps 50rms, a cheap one that is). I would go for the Mrp-f600 (its better to over power your amp than to under power it, it puts less stress on the amp resulting in less heat built up on it. but if you got money, grab a PDX

PDX:

Underrated amp (it says 100rms but the True rms is 140)

Less heat build up

stackable

Compact in size

V-power:

Cost effective

Amp is genuine 100rms if rated (true rms would about higher than 100rms and not lower (alpine doesnt lie about their amps, this resulted in their recall of MRP-M2000s)

heat builds up more compared to PDX,

slightly big.

hi mate

i just purchase alpine 9886 hu and ipod cable and a alpine mrp f300 4 channel amp everything is ok just theres not much base into it is probably my speakers they are poineer 4 way atm im looking to change them soon would u reccomend any alpine speakers suitable to my amp heheheeh.

and do you leave in sydney?

cheers benny

[Eargunk]

It really depends on your car, not sure what a corolla can hold, but generally its good expensive speakers at front, and cheap ones at back (for the passangers) focal has speakers that fit straight into factory stock doors, i had to fibreglass pods to fit it into my car (spr-17ls) because the magnet is bigger than the hole in the door. (if it was me, i would bridge 2 channels to make it 100rms for the fronts and get cheap backs running off the head unit for the backs, or just have fronts) - why good Front speakers? ----> why do rock bands and concerts have their speakers up in front and not at back? hmmmmmmmmmm.

Edited March 14, 2009 by Eargunk

[stinky]

It really depends on your car, not sure what a corolla can hold, but generally its good expensive speakers at front, and cheap ones at back (for the passangers) focal has speakers that fit straight into factory stock doors, i had to fibreglass pods to fit it into my car (spr-17ls) because the magnet is bigger than the hole in the door. (if it was me, i would bridge 2 channels to make it 100rms for the fronts and get cheap backs running off the head unit for the backs, or just have fronts) - why good Front speakers? ----> why do rock bands and concerts have their speakers up in front and not at back? hmmmmmmmmmm.

hey mate are u from sydney?

[Eargunk]

queensland

[Kenneth.]

Eargunk, you appear to be an car audio guru. So I just want to ask, what's the difference between component speakers and the coaxial speakers.. I notice the alpine components cost more.

And each picture from Alpine showing the component speakers, show two little tweeters. Is that what the component speakers are?

Sorry, i'm a car audio noob, so thought I'd ask and learn a few things.. =)

Regards,

Kenneth

[the_random_hero]

Eargunk, you appear to be an car audio guru. So I just want to ask, what's the difference between component speakers and the coaxial speakers.. I notice the alpine components cost more.

And each picture from Alpine showing the component speakers, show two little tweeters. Is that what the component speakers are?

Sorry, i'm a car audio noob, so thought I'd ask and learn a few things.. =)

Regards,

Kenneth

Components are just that - have individual components for differing frequency reproductions (usually a midrange/woofer and a tweeter, although can also have a woofer, midrange and a tweeter in some expensive sets). Coaxials have the tweeter built into the speaker assembly so are cheaper to produce and install. Components (also called splits) give you better sound as you're able to position the tweeter for the best sound reproduction.

[Eargunk]

to add to the post above, you also get a rectangular filter with the component/splits and if you run cables from your amp, it goes to a filter (attaches with screw plates, so you dont have to solder it to the speaker like the coaxial speakers) but you still have to solder from the filter to the woofer/tweeters. the filter divides up the frequency betweens speakers giving a more clean sound where as coaxial speakers can have frequencies passed to the tweeters or woofer where it cant place (i use to have the head unit run the rears without a filter way before i started boosting my audio, it played subwoofer tones and gave a crackling noise. Normally expensive splits fronts, coaxial at back, unless you have alot of money.

Oh one more thing. battery is important if you get a subwoofer in the future, having one over 500cca would be nice. it reduces the stress put onto your alternator. peferably deep cycle (lets you place without starting the engine, i ran mine at a party (next to some highway ages from anyone) for 3 hours at a pretty high volume. got a police warning too...)

Edited March 15, 2009 by Eargunk

[the_random_hero]

to add to the post above, you also get a rectangular filter with the component/splits and if you run cables from your amp, it goes to a filter (attaches with screw plates, so you dont have to solder it to the speaker like the coaxial speakers) but you still have to solder from the filter to the woofer/tweeters. the filter divides up the frequency betweens speakers giving a more clean sound where as coaxial speakers can have frequencies passed to the tweeters or woofer where it cant place (i use to have the head unit run the rears without a filter way before i started boosting my audio, it played subwoofer tones and gave a crackling noise. Normally expensive splits fronts, coaxial at back, unless you have alot of money.

Oh one more thing. battery is important if you get a subwoofer in the future, having one over 500cca would be nice. it reduces the stress put onto your alternator. peferably deep cycle (lets you place without starting the engine, i ran mine at a party (next to some highway ages from anyone) for 3 hours at a pretty high volume. got a police warning too...)

It's called a crossover ;) Some are clip-on connections, some are screw and some use plugs - it all comes down to the product. Likewise with speaker connections.

Battery is a pointless upgrade on most peoples cars, up to about 500WRMS the stock battery will be fine as long as you upgrade your grounds and don't plan on running it on high volumes without the car started. Keep in mind it's your alternator that provides most of the power for the audio system, the battery only starts the car and provides power when the alternator output drops below ~14.4V.

[stinky]

I got mine for about 420 (i think rrp was 500 or something, cant remember but i saved about 100$), but i would go to jbhifi or something and say "northfield (or any other place) is selling it for me for 420, can you beat it? and they would usually say, i only can drop to so and so, and you say, ill think about it and come back later on (so it doesnt look suspicious).

with your amp, it really depends on your speakers, if their factory, dont even bother, but aftermarket, its better to have one than not have one (head unit puts out 12rms compared to an amps 50rms, a cheap one that is). I would go for the Mrp-f600 (its better to over power your amp than to under power it, it puts less stress on the amp resulting in less heat built up on it. but if you got money, grab a PDX

PDX:

Underrated amp (it says 100rms but the True rms is 140)

Less heat build up

stackable

Compact in size

V-power:

Cost effective

Amp is genuine 100rms if rated (true rms would about higher than 100rms and not lower (alpine doesnt lie about their amps, this resulted in their recall of MRP-M2000s)

heat builds up more compared to PDX,

slightly big.

hey eargunk is mrp f 600 enough for a 12 inch type r sub just need some advices cause this sat im gonna get a type r sub

cheers

[Kenneth.]

I got mine for about 420 (i think rrp was 500 or something, cant remember but i saved about 100$), but i would go to jbhifi or something and say "northfield (or any other place) is selling it for me for 420, can you beat it? and they would usually say, i only can drop to so and so, and you say, ill think about it and come back later on (so it doesnt look suspicious).

with your amp, it really depends on your speakers, if their factory, dont even bother, but aftermarket, its better to have one than not have one (head unit puts out 12rms compared to an amps 50rms, a cheap one that is). I would go for the Mrp-f600 (its better to over power your amp than to under power it, it puts less stress on the amp resulting in less heat built up on it. but if you got money, grab a PDX

PDX:

Underrated amp (it says 100rms but the True rms is 140)

Less heat build up

stackable

Compact in size

V-power:

Cost effective

Amp is genuine 100rms if rated (true rms would about higher than 100rms and not lower (alpine doesnt lie about their amps, this resulted in their recall of MRP-M2000s)

heat builds up more compared to PDX,

slightly big.

hey eargunk is mrp f 600 enough for a 12 inch type r sub just need some advices cause this sat im gonna get a type r sub

cheers

Aren't you getting a separate mono-block to power your sub? The MRP-F600 is a 4/2/1 channel amp. You're supposed to be looking at the MRP-M500 or MRP-M1000. Those are the two V-Power mono-block amps available. :P

[Eargunk]

if your getting a 10 inch or 12 inch type r subwoofer, the minimum amp you need is a MRP-M500 (as it runs 500rms at 2ohms). the mrp-f600 is a 4 channel amp which you could bridge, but monoblocks run subwoofers better as it doesnt send in the high tones. if your running 2 i suggest getting a mrp-m1000, i got a 850, its loud but its not its full potential. if your going to 15 inch, i suggest a mrp-m850. but make sure you have room in your trunk before buying it, the box is fairly big for the 12 inch and up. (the box and sub combo in the alpine catalogue is fairly big and make sure you trunk is high enough (i made a custom box so it has only a couple of mm clearence from my trunk roof.

Edited March 18, 2009 by Eargunk

[the_random_hero]

if your getting a 10 inch or 12 inch type r subwoofer, the minimum amp you need is a MRP-M500 (as it runs 500rms at 2ohms). the mrp-f600 is a 4 channel amp which you could bridge, but monoblocks run subwoofers better as it doesnt send in the high tones. if your running 2 i suggest getting a mrp-m1000, i got a 850, its loud but its not its full potential. if your going to 15 inch, i suggest a mrp-m850. but make sure you have room in your trunk before buying it, the box is fairly big for the 12 inch and up. (the box and sub combo in the alpine catalogue is fairly big and make sure you trunk is high enough (i made a custom box so it has only a couple of mm clearence from my trunk roof.

Whoa whoa dude, slow down with the advice ;) Any amp putting out more than 150WRMS will run a sub nicely. In fact, strictly speaking in power terms it takes 10x the power to double the volume. Things you need to be looking at are efficiency of the sub (anything above 90dB/w/m is good, the higher the better), power handling (so you're not overloading the voice coil, generally the more efficient the lower the power handling) and matching the impedance of the voice coil/s to the most efficient output impedance from the amplifier.

Output doesn't really mean squat when it comes to rating amps as most manufacturers will fudge the details slightly. Monoblocks run subwoofers better as they are more efficient than a bridged 4 channel amp, it has nothing to do with the frequency output (this is what a low-pass filter is for) - although as monoblocks are specifically designed to run a subwoofer they will only reproduce up to around 200Hz, most of which will be tuned out.

[Eargunk]

ill keep in mind not to write anything when im confused after reading a book hehehe

[the_random_hero]

ill keep in mind not to write anything when im confused after reading a book hehehe

Your advice isn't really wrong, just not technically correct :)

[stinky]

ill keep in mind not to write anything when im confused after reading a book hehehe

hi eargunk

so mrp f500 monoblock is gwd for the single 12inch sub and also does a type r sub sounds nice.

cheers

[Eargunk]

if its in a sealed box, around 0.8 cubic feet (which what i have) its clear but still punches hard when you crank it up. i had 1 for 2 weeks, it was sweet, once i installed my 2nd one i had to tune it for less bass. but its really clear, some people classifly it as a SQ/SPL woofer. 1 woofer will still shake your car up and give you chest compressions.

make sure you run it in (keep it at a low volume) until the rubber is soft, it increases the clearness of the bass (an upside of buying second hand if you know the owner doesnt abuse)

and its a MRP-M500.

[stinky]

if its in a sealed box, around 0.8 cubic feet (which what i have) its clear but still punches hard when you crank it up. i had 1 for 2 weeks, it was sweet, once i installed my 2nd one i had to tune it for less bass. but its really clear, some people classifly it as a SQ/SPL woofer. 1 woofer will still shake your car up and give you chest compressions.

make sure you run it in (keep it at a low volume) until the rubber is soft, it increases the clearness of the bass (an upside of buying second hand if you know the owner doesnt abuse)

and its a MRP-M500.

hi eargunk

for the speakers im prob gonna change to type s componet for front and coaxial for back thoes that sounds gwd.

cheers