Central Locking Issue

[Mr-abc]

Hi all,

The problem is still there any with advise please?

Cheers

[blombo]

Hi Group,

Camry V6 Altise 2003 , same problem.

Service dept is only interested when the problem is present ( fair enough ) ,but due to costs ( I even offered to remove door panels to reduce them ) I ended up having a look myself,as mentioned in earlier post it seems to occur in Perth during damper months, or after car has been left outside near sprinklers.:-)

Not sure if already stated , but manual locking of drivers door with key has the same problem.

Unlocking has no problems ever.

Even checked out the ECU doorlocks/lighting ( Pasenger foot well ).

Typically the fault went away, which makes me think there could be an issue with humidity and a low resistance path somewhere.

Going to try and trace the wiring now I have a AUS workshop manual instead of US.

Cheers.

[Mr-abc]

I've noticed I only experiencing that central locking in cold weather condition but hot weather the locks works fine. Very interesting.......

[blombo]

Hi Group and Thread.

I have a copy of the circuit diagram now ( actually a couple, all RHD but I think it will transpose OK ).

First off, the fact that a large Toyota service centre told me (just over a year ago ) , to bring the car in next time the locking system was playing up , and they "MAY" be able to fix the fault , would infer that was no service bulletin related to the specific problem, and typically if the cause is not obvious they would just replace component for new until it was fixed.

I have to assume that its NOT the Body ECU ( although possible ) that has the fault ,that’s too difficult to fix!

Summary of my observations:

Intermittent and likely to be related to humidity( ? low temp ).

Key, Remote and door switch all have the same problem.

There can be a delay for the 3 other locks which is not normal but will not generate warning.

Because of the Delay in other locks I am going to assume that the driver’s door is the “master”

My plan of investigation

Make sure the drivers door lock motor is getting power.

Check lock detection switch and associated wiring.

I plan to emulate a closed or open circuit scenario.With a bit of luck I can emulate the problem :-)

This signal is feed to the body ecu through a dedicated input ( other 3 doors have a common one ).

This would mean its not involved in motor control just signal detection.

I don’t think it’s the courtesy light switches as the door open light does not indicate a problem. trust the Body ECU

Is it possible the common device used in the different models is the door lock/motor/switch.??

Stay watching this thread, Family only have one car,but I have some days off next month, to remove door panels etc

B.

[hixsta]

Hello All,

I have a Toyota Camry 2004 model and I'm experiencing the central locking problem. This car has served me good for the pass 5 years and this problem has just started. The problems are as follows:

1. I can central locks all for doors but when unlocked the door from inside only the driver side is unlocked not the other three doors.

2. When using the remote control the driver door is unlocked but not the other three doors.

3. The car will not response to the remote control i.e the light flashes 2 times (from memories) and will not locked the doors.

It is an intermittent problems and the car becomes good for a few hours and than problem started again.

Anyone with suggestions will be much appreciated.

Thank you!!!

Haver you taken the car to the dealer to have it checked?

Hello RonnyBoy,

Since the car is out of warranty 2 years ago I couldn't bother to take it to Toyota I know it's will cost an arm and leg to get this fixed. That's why I try this forum to see I can get any free help!!

That's what we all are on here doing. Toyota Dealers are a rip off!

My latest is: Still no locking problems through the heat of Summer, I am sure it'll be back when the weather changes again in mid-Autumn.

[Kris28]

I believe it is a humidity issue within the locking mechanism

[hixsta]

I believe it is a humidity issue within the locking mechanism

Right on cue it's started happening again. The weather is finally cooling here in Perth and sure enough. ~Blip~Blip~

The quickest way I get it to work is to open the driver door and flick the locking latch back and forth a few times. Doesn't always fix it but works better than slamming the door in disgust!

[FITZY26]

i have the same problem with my 2004 Altise, but mine first started having problems in the warmer weather, and when the car was hot. If it had been sitting for awhile & was cool it was OK. But now it wont lock at all with the remote, but will lock with the key once the 3 passengers doors are locked manually

[NeilC]

My partners Sportivo has been doing exactly the same thing. Being an electronics tinkerer I decided to try and solve this problem.

Checked the following:

Door switches

Boot switch

Bonnet switch

All clean and making good contact so under the dash was next port of call looking for the ECU as I have had this problem with the Statesman that I used to own. Correct me someone please if I am wrong but the ECU is integrated into the fusebox on the 2003 Camry. Could hear the click of a mini relay within whilst toggling the Lock/Unlock switch on the drivers door however it was only clicking whilst hitting unlock. Nothing ventured nothing gained so gave it a sharp rap on the case with the screwdriver handle and voila full function has returned at least for the moment. Without removing and disassembling the ecu case for a look see my guess is that there are some dry solder joints within. The permanent solution? Replace the ecu however I can only presume that like most other late model cars that would also require new keys and transponders.

[hixsta]

Mate, awesome info there. Thanks.

For those not so tech savvy, where exactly is the box i need to smack with something solid.

Cheers again

[NeilC]

Ok time to give an update. The Body Control unit is built into the fusebox. Access is via four small phillips head screws after removing the three 10mm nuts that hold the fusebox in place. The ECU circuit board simply wiggles out of its multi connector. Have figured out that mine at least is faulty in that whilst the cover is off the system works perfectly however as soon as I put it all back together and tighten everything up it goes phut again. Am thinking of replacing the mini relays shortly to see if that finally cures it. Losing daylight here atm but am going to pull the fusebox out again tomorrow and have another go at it. Will post up my results tomorrow afternoon. If all else fails to fix this am going to wire in an aftermarket door module and do away with the factory system. Oh and before anyone says it wont work I can assure you it will. The door control ECU whilst surface mount is not canbus as such but will require the rewiring of the door motors and isolation of them from the car system. The only functions I may lose are the interior light and ignition key illumination.

[NeilC]

Ok a final update for all. The problem IS the two mini relays on the BCM board located at the rear top of the Fuse Box under the cover marked at least on our Camry With the word LOW on the label. This module controls the Door Lock/Unlock function and also the Interior Light functions. Am presuming that with the higher spec models this board has more functions. The relays can be purchased online and will soon be getting a pair, These are your lock/unlock relays and have found out by experiment that they do not stop the car from being started/driven. Board also controls the alarm functions such as the horn beeps and light flashers you get when you arm/disarm the system.Repair is not for anyone that is not confident with small component soldering. Minimum tools you will need are a soldering station ( no gas axe job here ) and a solder sucker or similar. God knows the price of this board from Toyota but I can imagine the drama of fitting a new one with probably re learning or replacement of remotes. Will post up a full pictorial when I do it in a couple of weeks.

[hixsta]

Go NeilC! - I am sure that others who follow this thread along with myself, appreciate your ongoing efforts and commentary on this common problem. Thanks HEAPS!

[slee]

NeilC, 100% support you! I just have the same issue for my Camry 2003, the Toyota Chastwood service guy said need to replace the "Intergration Relay", it would cast $380. I have already spent $1400 there to replace/fix other things just a week ago.

Just come here today, and found many of you having the same issue.

NeilC, you would be the hero if you can fix it!

[JRosie]

Could some one please help:

Camry 2001 4cyl auto CSI battery wnet flat. Replaced battery now no central locking or power windows work. Have checked fuses - is there a circuit breaker to reset ?

Thanks Jerry

[Nicko99]

Anyone had any luck with this. My camry is getting to the point where my only solution is to manually lock all the doors and use the key. Sometimes if I try the central locking the indicators keep flashing and don't stop. I've had the entire central locking system replaced so I'm hoping that fixing the BCM will solve the problem.

[hixsta]

Mate I was just thinking about this thread today. Mine used to be a Autumn/Spring problem making me belive it is a condensation issue.

Now it's ALL THE TIME :(

It's even worse, than an old car. At least old cars the other 3 doors stay locked when you unlock the drivers and hop in!

Any updates from NeilC... our last great hope?

[Zeke]

Hi

I'm new here and ask for your patience. I tried to indroduce myself but ran into problems on the intro page.

I've read all posts on this thread, and I too have central locking problems with a 2004 Camry Altise - works sometimes and others not. In the problem situation, when locking with the remote, the horn chirps twice and the indicators flash twice, indicating a door open. Also, locking the drivers door manually with the key only locks the driver's door, not the others.

A locksmith was unable to doagnose and rectify the problem. Other posts also indicate that getting specialist service would be a waste of money.

Whilst attempting self-diagnosis I discovered that the lock knob (the button you can move forward to lock the door, or backwards to unlock) on the passenger door behind the driver was in a disconnect state - it basically flaps in the breeze and is clearly not attached to anything. I would like any comments on the effect of this - would it explain the problems described above? I can see that if the pin switches on the doors (as referenced by the-random-hero) were inoperative the security system would detect a door open situation, but would a disconnected lock knob have the same effect?

At the moment I can manually lock all doors except the passenger door behind the driver, which is a pretty bad security situation.

Cheers

[Old man]

You guys know what? I dont think my next car is gonna be a toyota. It seem like after a few years it have all the annoying mechanical and electrical problems.

[trentmeyer23]

You guys know what? I dont think my next car is gonna be a toyota. It seem like after a few years it have all the annoying mechanical and electrical problems.

The only thing I have not done is take it to the electrician or Toyota, which I know is going to cost me lots.

More than likely because you are cheap, you likely bought a dud!

[Hiro]

You guys know what? I dont think my next car is gonna be a toyota. It seem like after a few years it have all the annoying mechanical and electrical problems.

Good luck getting a different result elsewhere - cars in general these days don't seem to have the longevity and build quality of even 10 years ago - they are built to last the warranty period. To most people who buy cars on 3-year leases and then trade-in, this is irrevelant.

[Chris Kaye]

Hi, I have a toyota camry altise 2003 model and have this problem, it will beep twice when I use the central locking button but not lock the passenger door, I have to open it and flick over the knob to lock it. I've found it only beeps when I have unlocked the passenger door then I have to open it and lock it manually. If it's just me driving the car and I don't have to open the passenger door at all, I can central lock/unlock both my driver door and both the rears fine, WITH the passenger door locked via switching the knob inside the car. So it only beeps when I've unlocked the passenger (and try to lock it via the central locking).

Ok time to give an update. The Body Control unit is built into the fusebox. Access is via four small phillips head screws after removing the three 10mm nuts that hold the fusebox in place. The ECU circuit board simply wiggles out of its multi connector. Have figured out that mine at least is faulty in that whilst the cover is off the system works perfectly however as soon as I put it all back together and tighten everything up it goes phut again. Am thinking of replacing the mini relays shortly to see if that finally cures it. Losing daylight here atm but am going to pull the fusebox out again tomorrow and have another go at it. Will post up my results tomorrow afternoon. If all else fails to fix this am going to wire in an aftermarket door module and do away with the factory system. Oh and before anyone says it wont work I can assure you it will. The door control ECU whilst surface mount is not canbus as such but will require the rewiring of the door motors and isolation of them from the car system. The only functions I may lose are the interior light and ignition key illumination.

Any more updates on this? I don't know cars at all, and I'd have to tell whoever I take it in too exactly what is wrong with it and (hopefully) how to fix it, I have no idea, myself. I don't want them tinkering with it for weeks and running the bill up without even knowing what is wrong with it.

Edited June 28, 2014 by Chris Kaye

[(mr2)]

Hi, I have a toyota camry altise 2003 model and have this problem, it will beep twice when I use the central locking button but not lock the passenger door, I have to open it and flick over the knob to lock it. I've found it only beeps when I have unlocked the passenger door then I have to open it and lock it manually. If it's just me driving the car and I don't have to open the passenger door at all, I can central lock/unlock both my driver door and both the rears fine, WITH the passenger door locked via switching the knob inside the car. So it only beeps when I've unlocked the passenger (and try to lock it via the central locking).

It's most likely the actuator on your passenger door.

[Chris Kaye]

Hi, I have a toyota camry altise 2003 model and have this problem, it will beep twice when I use the central locking button but not lock the passenger door, I have to open it and flick over the knob to lock it. I've found it only beeps when I have unlocked the passenger door then I have to open it and lock it manually. If it's just me driving the car and I don't have to open the passenger door at all, I can central lock/unlock both my driver door and both the rears fine, WITH the passenger door locked via switching the knob inside the car. So it only beeps when I've unlocked the passenger (and try to lock it via the central locking).

It's most likely the actuator on your passenger door.

Hi, I can confirm it is the actuator on the front passenger door as I had a mate test it for me, he's willing to replace it and know's how to take off the door trim, but doesn't know the actual steps of replacing the actuator. I've ordered the part and searched the site how to do it, all I could find is a thread containing a pdf (which is a dead link now). So can someone tell me in detailed steps, how to do this, please?

[(mr2)]

Nothing fancy with changing the actuator, they not need to be coded to the car or anything like that. Once he has removed the trim, unscrew the latching mechanism on the side of the door, disconnect the rods that go into the back of the mech. One from the outside lock and another from the out side handle and there will be one from the inside handle and another from the lock/ unlock button in the car.

On the bottom of the mech would be the wires coming out of it for the actuator, follow these back until you get to the plug and disconnect. Fit new one and reconnect everything.

Test BEFORE putting the trim back on, it really sucks when you put it all back together to realize that one of the rods isn't connected or the actuator isn't plugged in :) :)