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Gearbox oil and Gear shifting problems

CTS03

By CTS03
in Corolla / Corolla Sportivo Club

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MT Grand Master

MT

Posted
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It'll feel good for a while, a year more or less, then it'll be even worse.

Just like bonking a.... never mind.

What oil should I use in my box then, oh mighty one?

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SuperDave Grand Master

SuperDave

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What oil should I use in my box then, oh mighty one?

I'm using the Motul Semi-Synthetic without any issues. But any of the other big brands will be fine. I'll have to annoy SB for some of this Roil stuff.

I'm told by a reputable race engine/gearbox shop that the issue with the Redline shockproof is the oil is too slippery for the synchros to do their thing. Hence why it shouldn't be used in a synchro gearbox.

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Guni Grand Master

Guni

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What oil should I use in my box then, oh mighty one?

I'm using the Motul Semi-Synthetic without any issues. But any of the other big brands will be fine. I'll have to annoy SB for some of this Roil stuff.

I'm told by a reputable race engine/gearbox shop that the issue with the Redline is the oil is too slippery for the synchros to do their thing. Hence why it shouldn't be used in a synchro gearbox.

Yet, some forum users use it like holy water here. Hmmmm ...............

So no redline oils at all or just the shockproof?

Which is better to use? MT90? Motul?

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Guni Grand Master

Guni

Posted
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From http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlub...mp;categoryID=7

MT-90

Popular in Nissan, Toyota and Mazda manual transmissions and transaxles as well as other selected applications, this is a 75W90 GL-4 Gear Oil that’s slightly heavier than MTL. Provides excellent protection of gears and synchronizers and its balanced slipperiness provides a perfect coefficient of friction, allowing easier shifting.

From http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlub...mp;categoryID=6

Lightweight ShockProof®

A unique gear oil designed to lubricate racing transmissions and transaxles which see serious loads (not recommended for most syncro-type transmissions). It has excellent low-temperature flow which allows easier shifting when cold. May be used to obtain maximum power transfer in racing differentials which do not see high temperatures. Similar to a 75W140 gear oil, but with the lower internal friction of an SAE 30 motor oil.

Used in most road-racing differentials with moderate power and dogring racing transaxles.

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aaronsu Collaborator

aaronsu

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just put in 2 and a quarter bottles of mt90 a few weeks ago. costs fairly more compared to others, but the shifting was just so smooth! highly recommended!

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Guni Grand Master

Guni

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just put in 2 and a quarter bottles of mt90 a few weeks ago. costs fairly more compared to others, but the shifting was just so smooth! highly recommended!

How much and from where?

My 3 bottle of lightweight shockproof cost me about 30 ++ each. Can't remember now.

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SuperDave Grand Master

SuperDave

Posted
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Yet, some forum users use it like holy water here. Hmmmm ...............

So no redline oils at all or just the shockproof?

Which is better to use? MT90? Motul?

The oil in question is the Shockproof, I haven't tried the MT90. If I had a gearbox with no synchros I would use the Shockproof as it is a great oil.

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aaronsu Collaborator

aaronsu

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just put in 2 and a quarter bottles of mt90 a few weeks ago. costs fairly more compared to others, but the shifting was just so smooth! highly recommended!

How much and from where?

My 3 bottle of lightweight shockproof cost me about 30 ++ each. Can't remember now.

it cost about the same as the shockproof, about 103 all up. i bought them from burson autoparts in sunshine.

watch out if you're going to get it from the burson branch in west melbourne, there's this idiot who didn't know that there was a type of redline oil called mt90, yet didn't want to admit it, telling me there was no such thing. he was only convinced after he rang his supplier. and he tried to make me buy a 4 litre bottle of lightweight shockproof, telling me it was the mt90, because they didn't have the mt90 in stock, while what i asked for was three 1 litre bottles of mt90, cause that was all I needed. like how stupid can this guy get? i was pretty ticked off and was like: screw it. i left and rang up the sunshine branch, took a drive there 2 hrs later and all done.

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Guni Grand Master

Guni

Posted
Posted
just put in 2 and a quarter bottles of mt90 a few weeks ago. costs fairly more compared to others, but the shifting was just so smooth! highly recommended!

How much and from where?

My 3 bottle of lightweight shockproof cost me about 30 ++ each. Can't remember now.

it cost about the same as the shockproof, about 103 all up. i bought them from burson autoparts in sunshine.

watch out if you're going to get it from the burson branch in west melbourne, there's this idiot who didn't know that there was a type of redline oil called mt90, yet didn't want to admit it, telling me there was no such thing. he was only convinced after he rang his supplier. and he tried to make me buy a 4 litre bottle of lightweight shockproof, telling me it was the mt90, because they didn't have the mt90 in stock, while what i asked for was three 1 litre bottles of mt90, cause that was all I needed. like how stupid can this guy get? i was pretty ticked off and was like: screw it. i left and rang up the sunshine branch, took a drive there 2 hrs later and all done.

No worries. Sth Eastern Suburb. Will go to the springvale one to catch it. The nxt service due this year end. Will fix it up then. Won't be too late I hope .......... Does anyone know how long do we leave the gearbox oil in for? 50,000 KM ? 2 years?

Driving style is to and from work with occasional track and the LIFT !

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CME-LFT Veteran

CME-LFT

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Hey guys, i bought 3 litres of castrol sytrax, and got my gearbox oil changed.

My mechanic only ended up using just UNDER two bottles,(trustworthy mechanic mind you, he knows what hes doing) he drained out the old and filled up the new as much as he could and just ended up using ALMOST and i mean ALMOST 2 bottles (maybe 10ml left)

Its true though, i did notice that it doesnt seem too well suited in the cold, but when its warm it feels alot better than before the oil change.

One question though, i noticed that lately its been hard to get into 1 (once completely stopped), and most of the time i either have to roll the car a bit to get it to go in or clutch it again. Is it normal for the sportivo boxes? or have my synchros had it from the last owner?

P.s when you guys do hit lift, what revs do u most commonly bring it to? nothing to do with gearbox problems, just out of curiousity on how you treat your car.

Thanks guys

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blublu Advancing

blublu

Posted
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I just picked up a stivo a few months back too, had serious clutch and gear change issues. Changed to Exedy HD clutch and at first had Castrol oil in there, but gear changes wasn't smooth, still clunky and at times quite hard to shift still.

Brought it to West Racing Motor Dev in Oz Park in Perth - changed to redline MTL 70W80 GL4 (on recommendation by the head mech as I don't drive it that hard) and it is now a MILLION times better. It never crunches on gear changes anymore nor do I struggle getting it in gear after lift, shifting is smooth as silk and I am not just saying that. The difference is seriously night and day for me. I don't know if this honeymoon is going to last, but it's been going well and smooth for over a month now so I am a happy redline convert! :)

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aaronsu Collaborator

aaronsu

Posted
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Hey guys, i bought 3 litres of castrol sytrax, and got my gearbox oil changed.

My mechanic only ended up using just UNDER two bottles,(trustworthy mechanic mind you, he knows what hes doing) he drained out the old and filled up the new as much as he could and just ended up using ALMOST and i mean ALMOST 2 bottles (maybe 10ml left)

Its true though, i did notice that it doesnt seem too well suited in the cold, but when its warm it feels alot better than before the oil change.

One question though, i noticed that lately its been hard to get into 1 (once completely stopped), and most of the time i either have to roll the car a bit to get it to go in or clutch it again. Is it normal for the sportivo boxes? or have my synchros had it from the last owner?

P.s when you guys do hit lift, what revs do u most commonly bring it to? nothing to do with gearbox problems, just out of curiousity on how you treat your car.

Thanks guys

that's odd, i watched as my mechanic filled up my gearbox and he finished 2 bottles and was still going, probably after another quarter of a bottle more, then it started to overflow. i reckon for yours it probably wasn't fully emptied before the new oil was put in.

since i got my sportivo, it never felt comfortable going into 1st gear right away. I was told to get into 2nd or any other gear when I wanted to go into 1st or reverse, I found that it smoothened it out heaps, and I didn't get the crunch from switching into reverse anymore. apparently this was done to 'baby' older alfa romeo gearboxes that always broke (i think they still do quite regularly, and helped lengthen their life.

Give it a go, and let us know how it goes!

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Guni Grand Master

Guni

Posted
Posted

Roil Roil Roil

We want Roil Roil Roil

Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil

:P

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Guni Grand Master

Guni

Posted
Posted

Try to maintain LIFT while shifting from 1st to 2nd. I can't anymore. It was stuck whilst trying to go to 2nd. Damn it. Damn gear oil don't work no more. Doesn't shift good. Need changing.

Everyone here talks about adjusting the clutch. Is it adjusting the clutch or the clutch pedal?

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Guni Grand Master

Guni

Posted
Posted
royal purple FTW !!!!!!!!

use it in my gearbox & my engine ;) ;) ;)

Nice, will be adjusting my clutch tomorrow based on this http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...ost&p=29995

and then we'll see how. Will definately order a SS soon as I want to get this shifting right before I do anything else.

Which Royal Purple products do u use for engine and gear box oil?

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Kenji Experienced

Kenji

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Alright guys, I'd been able to maintain lift when I first got my corolla back in 04. The shift from 1st to 2nd was difficult so I took it to Toyota and it was fixed up. They must have adjusted the clutch and clutch pedal back then. Since 05 I haven't been lifting or trying to maintain lift and with the recent installation of the TRD CAI I got in the GB that just passed, I tried to do it and the 1st -> 2nd shift is so hard it's made it impossible to maintain lift. But maintaining lift 2nd -> 3rd and above is simple.

80,000km on the odo and I just changed my transmission oil to RP maxgear 75w90. Same problem but it's alittle smoother. Just checked the clutch pedal and pressure points and its all fine according to http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...ost&p=29995 :(

Could it be my synchros seeing that I can maintain lift from 2nd onwards? Time to upgrade to Exedy HD clutch? Or just need a mechanic to properly adjust the shifter cables and clutch etc?

Any advice would be great thanx. :)

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tEeevo Collaborator

tEeevo

Posted
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i advise not to adjust your clutch pedals guys, its always preset from factory. the freeplay that matters is that 1.0mm at the pedal stop. which if you (by hand) wiggle your clutch pedal gently you feel that freeplay. the freeplay for the clutch resistance is due to your clutch (type-standard,heavy duty, or how worn) hydraulic systems dont need adjusting, only the old cars with clutch cables.if you find your friction point way out, could be worn clutch or aftermarket clutch. if you adjust up your pedal improperly you can cause premature wear on clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder, thrust bearing, and even cause your clutch to burn if bad enough.

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Guni Grand Master

Guni

Posted
Posted
i advise not to adjust your clutch pedals guys, its always preset from factory. the freeplay that matters is that 1.0mm at the pedal stop. which if you (by hand) wiggle your clutch pedal gently you feel that freeplay. the freeplay for the clutch resistance is due to your clutch (type-standard,heavy duty, or how worn) hydraulic systems dont need adjusting, only the old cars with clutch cables.if you find your friction point way out, could be worn clutch or aftermarket clutch. if you adjust up your pedal improperly you can cause premature wear on clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder, thrust bearing, and even cause your clutch to burn if bad enough.

AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!! , you are too late. Alraedy done it. Don't feel any diff .........

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Kenji Experienced

Kenji

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I didn't touch the pedal, just measured everything and it was like it stated it should be in the link. But yeah with 2 days of wear with the new RP maxgear 75w90 gear oil, shifting from 1st to 2nd at 8krpm still is sticky and can't do it fast :(

I want it fixed so I can stay in the powerband :(

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Kenji Experienced

Kenji

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I guess I'll just live with it for now and when I'm at 110,000km then I'll get a exedy HD clutch and hope for the best. From reading all the posts on the forum about the sticky 1st -> 2nd shifting I'm just going through what everyone has stated.

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