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Posted (edited)

Hey guy/girls

My issue is I have a 2003 Camry Sportivo 4 Cylinder and when im driving it 3 out of 5 times when I either press the brake use the power windows, use the blinker or wiper all electrical will cut out for half a second and come back on. Gauges, headlights, power windows, radio will switch of for half a second or less and then come back on. Also randomly (1 out of 6 times) without doing anything the electrical will cut out.

And roughly 1 in 15-to-20 times the car will actually turn off.

I tried things like cleaning away corrosion on battery terminals and looking for loose wiring but still it persists. But when I disconnect battery (positive and negative) for over 15 mins and connect it the problem will stop for a couple of days.

If i remember right when you disconnect the battery for over 15 mins its resets the ECU, correct me if im wrong.

Any help would be greatly appreciated cause ive taken it to my local Totoya repairer and they said to find the problem they have to change parts 1 by one and do tests and they want to charge $430 just for the air filter box.

Edited by toyo21

Posted (edited)
Hey guy/girls

I tried things like cleaning away corrosion on battery terminals and looking for loose wiring but still it persists. But when I disconnect battery (positive and negative) for over 15 mins and connect it the problem will stop for a couple of days.

If i remember right when you disconnect the battery for over 15 mins its resets the ECU, correct me if im wrong.

Sounds like you might have solved your own problem. Surely your dealer can try a swap with one of the cars in their yard to determine if for starters, if it is the computer or whatever else and replace the faulty item when determined. Even if they charge you for the time it takes to do the swaps. By the way a change over computer ie: rebuilt computer will cost a lot less than a new one. I had reason to use a change over computer years ago and it lasted 14 years and was still good when I got rid of the car whereas the original carked it after only 2 years Only One year warranties at those times. My problem was similar to yours and it got progressively worse. If your dealer wont help take your car to someone who will and get your future work done by them.

Edited by peregrine
Posted (edited)
Hey guy/girls

I tried things like cleaning away corrosion on battery terminals and looking for loose wiring but still it persists. But when I disconnect battery (positive and negative) for over 15 mins and connect it the problem will stop for a couple of days.

If i remember right when you disconnect the battery for over 15 mins its resets the ECU, correct me if im wrong.

Sounds like you might have solved your own problem. Surely your dealer can try a swap with one of the cars in their yard to determine if for starters, if it is the computer or whatever else and replace the faulty item when determined. Even if they charge you for the time it takes to do the swaps. By the way a change over computer ie: rebuilt computer will cost a lot less than a new one. I had reason to use a change over computer years ago and it lasted 14 years and was still good when I got rid of the car whereas the original carked it after only 2 years Only One year warranties at those times. My problem was similar to yours and it got progressively worse. If your dealer wont help take your car to someone who will and get your future work done by them.

How much does a new ecu cost?

Also how do I know for sure if it is ecu? Is there anyway to be sure?

Edited by toyo21
Posted
Also how do I know for sure if it is ecu? Is there anyway to be sure?

Try another one and see if the problem's still there...? It'll prove whether the ECU's faulty or not!


Posted (edited)

New ECU from toyota for my v6 is $2200. I'm going to assume it would be very similar. Wreckers would be the way to go.

Edited by STYLSH
Posted
New ECU from toyota for my v6 is $2200. I'm going to assume it would be very similar. Wreckers would be the way to go.

don't they have a diagnosis plug on these'surely if they have it would show the fault.My other son had a magna which continuously cut out after a new battery was fitted and ultra tune rescanned his computer and all was fixed.

I don't know if this helps you just an Idea

Posted
Hey guy/girls

My issue is I have a 2003 Camry Sportivo 4 Cylinder and when im driving it 3 out of 5 times when I either press the brake use the power windows, use the blinker or wiper all electrical will cut out for half a second and come back on. Gauges, headlights, power windows, radio will switch of for half a second or less and then come back on. Also randomly (1 out of 6 times) without doing anything the electrical will cut out.

And roughly 1 in 15-to-20 times the car will actually turn off.

I tried things like cleaning away corrosion on battery terminals and looking for loose wiring but still it persists. But when I disconnect battery (positive and negative) for over 15 mins and connect it the problem will stop for a couple of days.

If i remember right when you disconnect the battery for over 15 mins its resets the ECU, correct me if im wrong.

Any help would be greatly appreciated cause ive taken it to my local Totoya repairer and they said to find the problem they have to change parts 1 by one and do tests and they want to charge $430 just for the air filter box.

If Possible, Try a different Battery if you havent already done so?

Posted

There was a recall for a wiring issue on the gen5 Camry. Check with your local dealer and see if the vehicle is one of the affected models and if it has been rectified.

Posted
Hey guy/girls

My issue is I have a 2003 Camry Sportivo 4 Cylinder and when im driving it 3 out of 5 times when I either press the brake use the power windows, use the blinker or wiper all electrical will cut out for half a second and come back on. Gauges, headlights, power windows, radio will switch of for half a second or less and then come back on. Also randomly (1 out of 6 times) without doing anything the electrical will cut out.

And roughly 1 in 15-to-20 times the car will actually turn off.

I tried things like cleaning away corrosion on battery terminals and looking for loose wiring but still it persists. But when I disconnect battery (positive and negative) for over 15 mins and connect it the problem will stop for a couple of days.

If i remember right when you disconnect the battery for over 15 mins its resets the ECU, correct me if im wrong.

Any help would be greatly appreciated cause ive taken it to my local Totoya repairer and they said to find the problem they have to change parts 1 by one and do tests and they want to charge $430 just for the air filter box.

If Possible, Try a different Battery if you havent already done so?

Put a new battery in there recently

Posted

I also forgot to mention that every time I turn my car on the time on the clock is wrong. Ill fix it and the next time I turn it on again its wrong.

Does this help anyone help me figure out this problem?

Posted

How strange. A bad alternator can also cause weird electrical symptoms, though I'm not sure if that's the problem. There is a tool that can be purchased that hooks onto the battery and tells you if the alternator is sending AC spikes.

Electrical work should be done with the negative terminal disconnected. A large enough short can damage the computer too.

Posted
How strange. A bad alternator can also cause weird electrical symptoms, though I'm not sure if that's the problem. There is a tool that can be purchased that hooks onto the battery and tells you if the alternator is sending AC spikes.

Electrical work should be done with the negative terminal disconnected. A large enough short can damage the computer too.

I was also thinking alternator but why would the clock be wrong after starting the car after its been of for a while. Alternator isnt in use when car is off.

But some symptoms like if the car doesnt cut out it almost does as in headlights and lights in the car dim when one of the electrical is used (e.g power windows). An every time i am at a set of lights and I have my blinker on, when the blinker comes on (blinker light going off-on-off-on, etc.) the headlights dim. That to me sounds like a alternator problem right?

Posted

hey man,

I am having similar problems since i did not drive my car for 2 months, and have u found out your problems?

cheers.

  • 1 year later...
Posted
How strange. A bad alternator can also cause weird electrical symptoms, though I'm not sure if that's the problem. There is a tool that can be purchased that hooks onto the battery and tells you if the alternator is sending AC spikes.

Electrical work should be done with the negative terminal disconnected. A large enough short can damage the computer too.

I was also thinking alternator but why would the clock be wrong after starting the car after its been of for a while. Alternator isnt in use when car is off.

But some symptoms like if the car doesnt cut out it almost does as in headlights and lights in the car dim when one of the electrical is used (e.g power windows). An every time i am at a set of lights and I have my blinker on, when the blinker comes on (blinker light going off-on-off-on, etc.) the headlights dim. That to me sounds like a alternator problem right?

I am still having very similar issues to this. Have you been able to resolve them yet?

All of my issues came after the toyota dealership did the work for the recall on the headlight fusable link/s.

Posted

Hello guys, new to the forum and just looking through some of the posts...

I had the same issue but with a Ford, it turned out to be the ignition swicth assembly

attached to the key.

The slightest bump or use of anything electrical would set it off.

Perhaps have a look at this side of things?

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I am still having very similar issues to this. Have you been able to resolve them yet?

All of my issues came after the toyota dealership did the work for the recall on the headlight fusable link/s.

well, well, well - exactly the same as for our 2003 Altise :angry: . Our headlights were cutting out (as the recall said they might), we got the recall work done and since then, similar problems to those listed above - if you press brake, turn on a/c, use powerwindows, the CD/radio cuts out for a second and the headlights dim

sounds like Toyota have cocked up the recall job. If i remeber correctly, the recall was for corrosion in a headlight switching mechanism. sounds like the new mechanism thay put in might be the problem?

  • 5 years later...
Posted

HI Guys,

 

Any solution comes out of this?,

I have 2004 Camry Grande (top range, with OEM GPS..etc..) same problem as above.

HI Guys,

 

Any solution comes out of this?,

I have 2004 Camry Grande (top range, with OEM GPS..etc..) same problem as above.

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