DIY - Changing in-tank fuel filter

[Kenshin X]

Disclaimer: Neither me or TOCAU are responsible for you blowing up your car during this DIY. Have the proper tools when you do this (you know the rest, i cbf writing the rest of the warnings)

Fuel Filter for the Corolla Sportivo with the 2zz-ge engines. Celica engines and the 1zz-fe engines from japan have a different filter so make sure you give the VIN number of your car to toyota for 100% accuracy.

I have used an aftermarket Ryco (Z654) with no problems but decided to change the filter at 40,000km (the regular interval with genuine and service book is 80k)

Tools you need:

8mm socket ratchet with extension

flat head screw driver

electric drill with approx 5mm drill bit

a small sharp knife

a plastic container to hold the fuel assembly in

MAF/electrical connector cleaner

rags

Fuel filter

Fuel Pump filter

You reuse all the rubber rings that come off the old filter. the genuine part only comes with the filter itself.

1) Pop the bonnet and take out the negative terminal of the battery. Go pump the brake. This will drain the car all its battery and make the fuel pump stop working releasing the pressure of the fuel in the hose.

2) Flip forward the back seats (take them out if you want to)

3) Take out the scuff plate on the right rear

4)Lift the carpet off. Now for people who haven't done this before you can either lift the carpet in 2 ways:

- cut the bit of carpet wraps around the bolt of the back seat and flip it out

OR

- remove the bolt and slip the carpet out from under the bracket holding the rear seat

mine was already done when i bought the car because the JB guys who installed the headunit amps for the previous owner didn't bother with undoing the bolt and bracket for the seat.

5) you can see the cover for the fuel filter and fuel pump assembly. Get a flat head and lift the cover off. u can reuse the sticky black stuff that holds to cover in place when u finish with changing it. The arrow shows how the cover should be orientated

cover off, you can see the fuel electrics and the fuel pump hose

6)Take the electric connection off and put the cover on the side

[Kenshin X]

7) with the flat head screw driver, CAREFULLY pry out the U-clip that holds the fuel pump hose. DO NOT force it out. GG for you if you break it.

8) With the 8mm ratchet, loosen the 8 bolts around the fuel pump cover to let a little air in. Pull the fuel pump hose out. Becareful to angle the opening down as some fuel will dribble out unless you want to smell fuel in your car for the next 3 days. Once the hose isn't dribbling anymore set it wrap it in plastic bag and tuck it beneath the chassis

9) Mark a corner of the fuel assy cover plate with a flat head screw driver so you know how the filter orientate when you put it back in the tank.

10) with the 8mm ratchet, loosen all the screws around the cover and put them in a safe place. if you want to be safe you can just loosen the bolts then use a phillips screw driver with the magnet to take it out so it doesn't fall down and get lost somewhere in the chassis.

11) Carefully lift the fuel assembly and filter out of the tank. TAKE CARE to angle the assy out so that the fuel sender does not get bent. The fuel sender is a VERY delicate device so unless you want your gauge to reading funny, take extra care when you remove the fuel filter and fuel filter assy. Have the ice-cream container ready to put in so fuel doesn't leak all over inside the car.

12) Lightly shake the assy and filter to get some of the fuel out in the ice-cream container. This fuel can be used to clean and lubricate the O-rings when you put them back in the new filter.

For those who are curious what in tank looks like...

clean like piss? yep...

[Kenshin X]

13) Turn the assy upside-down and remove the cap covering the fuel pump filter

Cap removed

14) With a sharp knife, CAREFULLY pry the safety ring for this filter off the filter itself. Lift gently and it will pop off (watch for your eyes)

15) Pry the fuel pump filter off

16) With the flat head screw driver, press on the electrical connector for the fuel pump and flick it off

closer picture of the connection

17) Now the tricky bit. With the flat head, pry the 4 clips surrounding the filter and pull it out. There is an O-ring that will be tough to take out so a bit of gentle wriggling will pop this one out. Be extra careful and gentle (patience is a virtue)

Comparison between clean and dirty fuel filter (look in the hole)

Comparison between clean and dirty fuel pump filter

[Kenshin X]

18)From the top of the filter, push the fuel pump out with your thumbs (careful do not drop the fuel pump) $_$

19) take out this part. (yes i don't know the actual name for it <_<) Just yank it out with your fingers

20) Now for the O-ring that's wedged inside here...

you can get out in two ways.

- you can use some kind of a hook tool to take it out

OR

- just use an electric drill to drill on top of the filter and use a phillips screw driver to push it out of the filter

If you get the Ryco filter, it will supply you with a new o-ring (makes life a hell of a lot easier)

21) Put everything back in the reverse order and replace it back in the car. If you are replacing the fuel pump filter (the flat looking filter that you take off before accessing the actual fuel filter), the new one will be extremely tight to get on. i pushed and pushed until it sit tight and i was able to get the tiny metal ring around thepart of the fuel pump to tighten it in. Then screw up the screws (make sure you tighten them up in opposites to ensure good vaccuum inside for the fuel to be sucked up) and plug in the hoses and clean the connection with a electrical cleaner to ensure good contact of electricity in the pump. Replace the carpet and seats and you're done! Ensure the U-clip is properly seated its place. fail to do so will disrupt the pressure in the fuel hose

22) Turn the key to ON position but don't crank the car yet. U will hear a slight buzzing noise. This is the fuel pump working to pump the fuel to get it to the right pressure before starting the car. When this buzzing stops, then crank the car. It WILL take around 3 to 5 seconds to start the engine so don't be alarmed if it doesn't crank straight away. fuel needs to be pumped up through the filter and then into the hose to the engine. run the car idle for 8 to 10 minutes so the ECU reboots and learns the new filter. turn off the car and disconnect the battery again for 30 seconds and then reconnect and start the car again. If the car starts straight away after u crank it, you're good. If it takes a long time to crank over, check all your connections and clips to see whether they are in tight and good.

More response, cleaner fuel and better fuel flow for your car! ;) Goes to show that even running 98 Octane isn't the cleanest fuel after all :P jk

Enjoy

Kenshin out ;)

[clifton]

Nice write up!

Was talking to my mechanic and I told him I was gonna change my fuel filter myself and he laughed at me. I can see why hahaha.

[william777]

Thanks Kenshin X for the fantastic tutorial. Looks easy but it isn't.

BTW, how long did it take you to complete the job?

[Kenshin X]

Nice write up!

Was talking to my mechanic and I told him I was gonna change my fuel filter myself and he laughed at me. I can see why hahaha.

Yeah. I also saw why Toyota charge 160 bucks to do it. Too much bullsh*t But yeah, these pictures are clear and simple enough. Some DIY's here don't have pictures. I thought doesn't take long to take a few snaps just to show things more clearly rather than writing an essay. Pictures do tell a thousand words...

Thanks Kenshin X for the fantastic tutorial. Looks easy but it isn't.

BTW, how long did it take you to complete the job?

if your a noob/scared (like me first time) = 2.5 hours

if you've done it before and remember how everything goes = 1 hour (max)

[clifton]

Haha yeah dude step by step pics is the only way to go!

and lol @ the RO emoticons

[shonko]

This illustrated tutorial is fantastic, well done............it has made my life much easier, thank you.

It was easier to follow than the original toyota service manual!!!!

BTW, the "bit" you didn't know the name of is the Fuel Pressure Regulator (according to the manual)

Very helpful site, cheers!

Shonko

[SYD]

I lost the Yellow U-Clip any idea wer to buy one.

Also try this youtube video i changed my filter very easy except for the missing part :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B7jw7xGnDec

Edited November 9, 2012 by SYD

[Kenshin X]

toyota.

[Hikaru Sorano]

Very good one!

May I say that you have to be very carefull when you put the o-rings in the new filter, because if you misplace them, there would be a fuel preasure leak. This causes starting problems when the engine is hot and other things like power loss and knocking..

Take a look to the pictures and how they placed the o-ring in the dealership:

You can see the mark on the plastic (the o-ring was bended and not sealing)

And in the other side correctly put

So I will never take it again to get the filter changed in the dealership. I'll do it myself like you.

Congrats!, good DIY,

Cheers

AB

Edited November 10, 2012 by Hikaru Sorano

[B Man]

Great post cheers mate.

[pjnz]

Is there much different between the ryco Z654 (ZZE123R au version) and ryco Z646 (ZZE123 jdm version)?, think I brought the wrong the filter, got the Z654 but I have a JDM ZZE123, I notice the ryco Z646 has version a plastic o-ring on the top while the Z654 don't, are these removable. Cheers

[Kenshin X]

Quick search of the ryco catalogue says the japan build corollas should get the z646 filter. Just remove it and compare. If not correct swap it.

[Carsbigjob089]

Hi Mate,

I have replaced the fuel filter in my Toyota Corolla 2003 conquest. It's the ryco fuel filter(after market). There is problem came up after replacing the filter. The car does not start in first crank, start in second one or keep cranking till start. I have taken to the mechanic and he put new O rings. The problem is still there so it's still taking long crank to start in first time.

Any suggestions which can prevent the problem. Thanks for the reading

[LazyMechanic]

Hi guys, i have recently replaced the fuel filter on the corolla zze122 and one of this small round piece of plastic came off but i couldn't figure out where it belongs to :( please help hix :)

[trentmeyer23]

From memory, I think it slots into the hole next to the black piece along with an o-ring.

[LazyMechanic]

Thanks for reply mate, that piece came off when i removed the bottom bracket to get the fuel pump out. Is there anything else between the pressure regulator and the filter apart from the o ring itself? I just changed the new filter z646 and hope the hard starting issue get fixed but it get worst now, checked all the o-ring and the new seal at the pump, i finally put everything back together without that round piece, i can hear it pinging at idle but when driving is oke, still hard to start after turn off for awhile. Anyone got a picture of the complete fuel pump assembly? I might have to buy the whole new pump assembly tomorrow and hope it gonna fix :) 

[trentmeyer23]

Apologies, it wasn't the piece I thought it was from looking at it on my phone. I can't actually recall that piece.

Regardless of how the o-rings look, replace all of them. There is also a new type top "o-ring" for the pump, well for the Aurion anyway, which runs the same filter.

[LazyMechanic]

Thanks mate

[Carsbigjob089]

Hi mate, I have the same problem after replacing the fuel filter in my car. Sometime it start in first crank but sometime it keep cranking or start in second time. I have taken out the fuel pump assembly and put it back with the new o rings but the problem is still there. I thought about sharing this with you. Please let me know once you get fixed. 

[Crankitupto12]

Help! My mechanic changed the filter a couple of weeks ago and the new filter didn't come with any o-rings or seal. He reused the seals and then a few days later the car was having issues starting up, taking 4-6 seconds of cranking before it would go. A few days later (after driving 1000km back home) the mechanic put a new genuine Toyota seal in to try and fix the fuel pressure issue. Problem then got worse. He then put a new filter and new seal (Ryco Z646) in on Friday afternoon. I tried to start the car today and it wouldn't turn on anymore, just sits there cranking trying to start. It sometimes starts to run and then stutters and dies again.

Definitely not enough fuel pressure. In addition to the chunky cylindrical seal, there's the two other O-rings/seals, the large one around the top of the filter housing and the smaller one inside. I have tried to order those parts in via Toyota but apparently these pieces do not show up on the assembly diagram when they checked it via my VIN. I'm now stranded with my car stuck in the driveway and I was supposed to drive to Sydney tomorrow.

I've searched and searched for the fuel filter seals so I can get them and have them replaced, hopefully fixing my problems, but can't find them anywhere. Can anyone please point me in the right direction where I can see them and source them? I am currently located near Byron Bay in far northern NSW.

My car is a 2004 ZZE122R Corolla. FIlter is very similar to the one in the tutorial, except mine has a large fuel supply hose and fitting (almost impossible to remove DIY without a special tool) in addition to the smaller return line with the yellow circlip as pictured above.

Any help much appreciated!

 

 

Edited June 12, 2016 by Crankitupto12

[trentmeyer23]

Regulator O-Ring - 90301-07020 
Tank Gasket - 77169-33020
Pump Strainer - 23217-0C010 
Fuel Pump O-Ring - 23239-21010

There is one missing(return line o-ring) from that list and I am pretty sure it is exactly the same as the regulator o-ring, so grab 2 of those.

These were the ones I bought for the Aurion but the filter assembly is exactly the same.

[Crankitupto12]

Thanks Trent.  The Regulator O-Ring - 90301-07020 and Tank Gasket - 77169-33020 are the two I'm after, I think.

The strainer was in good condition still, and the fuel pump o-ring (aka seal) is brand new.

My mechanic said one of the o-rings was visibly deformed last time he pulled it apart, will have to check if it's the regulator o-ring or gasket. I am pretty sure it'll be the regulator o-ring or return o-ring (both the same probably as you said), rather than the gasket. The gasket, from memory, doesn't need to be removed and is less delicate than the o-rings. I will check tomorrow with a QLD Toyota store as they'll be open. 

According to the assembly diagram for the ZZE122R (attached) the Toyota part number for the regulator o-ring is # 23280E. 

 

Edited June 12, 2016 by Crankitupto12