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Posted

Hey guys, as the topic states, i had cleaned my Pod Filter last night and reconnected everything back up, reset the ECU in the process... but the idle on my car is consistently up and down about 2k rpm Massive fluctuations... I am calling for the Corolla Gurus to help me with this problem.

I have already searched for what it could be, but unsure if it will balance itself out, or have I possibly damaged something?

Thanks guys :D

Evo

Posted (edited)

deleted

Edited by ben yip
Posted

Even, is your supercharger bypass valve open properly when idling after you reset your ECU? If not, your ECU may be having a fun time trying to balance itself out while the engine is under boost.

Posted

Even, is your supercharger bypass valve open properly when idling after you reset your ECU? If not, your ECU may be having a fun time trying to balance itself out while the engine is under boost.

Hmmm, didn't think of the Bypass Valve could be affecting it... how can I check this?

Evo


Posted

Hmmm, didn't think of the Bypass Valve could be affecting it... how can I check this?

Without photos to show you, I'll explain the best I can.

Observe how the valve and the levers attached to it looks when the car is off. Then start the car and observe if it changes it's position. If it does, then chances are it is okay and there is no need to worry about that (hopefully). If it doesn't change it's position between off and idle... then something is definitely not going good there. Another thing is you can disconnect the vacuum line to it while it is idling and see if it makes any change.

Posted

Hmmm, didn't think of the Bypass Valve could be affecting it... how can I check this?

Without photos to show you, I'll explain the best I can.

Observe how the valve and the levers attached to it looks when the car is off. Then start the car and observe if it changes it's position. If it does, then chances are it is okay and there is no need to worry about that (hopefully). If it doesn't change it's position between off and idle... then something is definitely not going good there. Another thing is you can disconnect the vacuum line to it while it is idling and see if it makes any change.

Checked out the actuator and it is working in perfect condition, the whole car is still fluctuating in idle...

Evo

Posted

Reading up on 9th Gen, it could be the TPS that's causing the problem...

CHA54, DJ, thoughts?

Evo

Posted

ive had this problem with mine for ages... would love some ideas...

you running power fc ???

Posted

1st question, what ECU?

2nd question, what did you disconnect/remove/reconnect?

If you took the MAF out and the o-ring got pinched going back in the leak could cause some running problems.

If you didn't take the TPS off the throttle body I doubt it would be related.

Posted

Standard ECU running Emanage Blue Piggyback (currently untuned)

TUNE YOUR GOD DAMN EMANAGE EVAN!!!

Posted

when you changed the throttle body, did you swap over the TPS and ISCV from the old one?

Did the rubber gasket stay in place on the manifold when bolting up the new throttle body?

If there's a vac leak at the throttle body you will end up with a bouncing idle as described. This is because the vac leak causes an increased idle that can go up and hit the "fuel cut rpm" while the throttle plate is shut.

Posted

when you changed the throttle body, did you swap over the TPS and ISCV from the old one?

No

Did the rubber gasket stay in place on the manifold when bolting up the new throttle body?

Yes

If there's a vac leak at the throttle body you will end up with a bouncing idle as described. This is because the vac leak causes an increased idle that can go up and hit the "fuel cut rpm" while the throttle plate is shut.

I must have a vac leak somewhere then... :(

Standard ECU running Emanage Blue Piggyback (currently untuned)

TUNE YOUR GOD DAMN EMANAGE EVAN!!!

I may just have to...

Posted

to test if it's the TPS adjustment on the new throttle body, unplug the TPS connector and see if the idle stabilises.

Posted

to test if it's the TPS adjustment on the new throttle body, unplug the TPS connector and see if the idle stabilises.

Sick of trying to figure out what its doing, so I am going to get Paul to have a look at it for me next week...

Evo

Posted

FYI,

here is what its doing:

* At idle it is changing revs from 2300 down to 1500ish then back up again.

* Same as above for neutral.

* driving is sluggish, foot on the gas has a short delay

* take foot off gas, takes a sec or 2 to start slowing down (no instant response)

So could this be a case of the MAF sensor? how sensitive is it?

What are signs of damaged valves? could this be a possibility?

I will need to limit the amount of driving I do.

Posted

vac leak

Thanks CHA54,

now, is it possible for me to diagnose the leak myself or should I get Paul to find it?

Posted

why did you replace the throttle body?

I'd be looking at the throttle body, the hoses it connects to and the intake manifold.

Is the throttle plate completely shut with no pressure on the accel pedal?

Posted

why did you replace the throttle body?

I'd be looking at the throttle body, the hoses it connects to and the intake manifold.

Is the throttle plate completely shut with no pressure on the accel pedal?

Good news everyone,

got my mate's dad to inspect my car and he was able to find the problem... since i had already arranged a service.

Seems a couple of the manifold bolts were a little bit loose, so after he had tightened them, she was running smooth again :D

no more fluctuating idle, and no more vacuum leak :D

so if anyone has this same problem, check all bolts, clamps etc.

Evo

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