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Fluctuating Idle AFTER ECU Reset

Evo7
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Evo7 Grand Master

Evo7

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Hey guys, as the topic states, i had cleaned my Pod Filter last night and reconnected everything back up, reset the ECU in the process... but the idle on my car is consistently up and down about 2k rpm Massive fluctuations... I am calling for the Corolla Gurus to help me with this problem.

I have already searched for what it could be, but unsure if it will balance itself out, or have I possibly damaged something?

Thanks guys :D

Evo

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DJKOR Grand Master

DJKOR

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Even, is your supercharger bypass valve open properly when idling after you reset your ECU? If not, your ECU may be having a fun time trying to balance itself out while the engine is under boost.

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Evo7 Grand Master

Evo7

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Even, is your supercharger bypass valve open properly when idling after you reset your ECU? If not, your ECU may be having a fun time trying to balance itself out while the engine is under boost.

Hmmm, didn't think of the Bypass Valve could be affecting it... how can I check this?

Evo

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DJKOR Grand Master

DJKOR

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Hmmm, didn't think of the Bypass Valve could be affecting it... how can I check this?

Without photos to show you, I'll explain the best I can.

Observe how the valve and the levers attached to it looks when the car is off. Then start the car and observe if it changes it's position. If it does, then chances are it is okay and there is no need to worry about that (hopefully). If it doesn't change it's position between off and idle... then something is definitely not going good there. Another thing is you can disconnect the vacuum line to it while it is idling and see if it makes any change.

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Evo7 Grand Master

Evo7

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Hmmm, didn't think of the Bypass Valve could be affecting it... how can I check this?

Without photos to show you, I'll explain the best I can.

Observe how the valve and the levers attached to it looks when the car is off. Then start the car and observe if it changes it's position. If it does, then chances are it is okay and there is no need to worry about that (hopefully). If it doesn't change it's position between off and idle... then something is definitely not going good there. Another thing is you can disconnect the vacuum line to it while it is idling and see if it makes any change.

Checked out the actuator and it is working in perfect condition, the whole car is still fluctuating in idle...

Evo

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CHA54 Grand Master

CHA54

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1st question, what ECU?

2nd question, what did you disconnect/remove/reconnect?

If you took the MAF out and the o-ring got pinched going back in the leak could cause some running problems.

If you didn't take the TPS off the throttle body I doubt it would be related.

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CHA54 Grand Master

CHA54

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when you changed the throttle body, did you swap over the TPS and ISCV from the old one?

Did the rubber gasket stay in place on the manifold when bolting up the new throttle body?

If there's a vac leak at the throttle body you will end up with a bouncing idle as described. This is because the vac leak causes an increased idle that can go up and hit the "fuel cut rpm" while the throttle plate is shut.

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Evo7 Grand Master

Evo7

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when you changed the throttle body, did you swap over the TPS and ISCV from the old one?

No

Did the rubber gasket stay in place on the manifold when bolting up the new throttle body?

Yes

If there's a vac leak at the throttle body you will end up with a bouncing idle as described. This is because the vac leak causes an increased idle that can go up and hit the "fuel cut rpm" while the throttle plate is shut.

I must have a vac leak somewhere then... :(

Standard ECU running Emanage Blue Piggyback (currently untuned)

TUNE YOUR GOD DAMN EMANAGE EVAN!!!

I may just have to...

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Evo7 Grand Master

Evo7

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to test if it's the TPS adjustment on the new throttle body, unplug the TPS connector and see if the idle stabilises.

Sick of trying to figure out what its doing, so I am going to get Paul to have a look at it for me next week...

Evo

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Evo7 Grand Master

Evo7

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FYI,

here is what its doing:

* At idle it is changing revs from 2300 down to 1500ish then back up again.

* Same as above for neutral.

* driving is sluggish, foot on the gas has a short delay

* take foot off gas, takes a sec or 2 to start slowing down (no instant response)

So could this be a case of the MAF sensor? how sensitive is it?

What are signs of damaged valves? could this be a possibility?

I will need to limit the amount of driving I do.

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CHA54 Grand Master

CHA54

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why did you replace the throttle body?

I'd be looking at the throttle body, the hoses it connects to and the intake manifold.

Is the throttle plate completely shut with no pressure on the accel pedal?

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Evo7 Grand Master

Evo7

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why did you replace the throttle body?

I'd be looking at the throttle body, the hoses it connects to and the intake manifold.

Is the throttle plate completely shut with no pressure on the accel pedal?

Good news everyone,

got my mate's dad to inspect my car and he was able to find the problem... since i had already arranged a service.

Seems a couple of the manifold bolts were a little bit loose, so after he had tightened them, she was running smooth again :D

no more fluctuating idle, and no more vacuum leak :D

so if anyone has this same problem, check all bolts, clamps etc.

Evo

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