Removal of scuff marks from door panels & foot well
-
Latest Postings
-
2
Bought a 2006 Toyota Aurion Prodigy
Every 90,000km get the transmission flushed by Toyota roughly $400 Spark plugs every 90,000km. I did mine when I was keen. Don't think I would do again, bit of a pain. Expect the alternator to die 150,000km onwards. Not sure if age is a factor? Cv shafts do die with abuse. Mine made it to 150,000km. Mechanic said they didn't look like originals? Apart from that, pretty solid cars. Great on fuel. -
0
What transmission type is on 1MZ-FE
Hi, please tell me where to post this question. But I have a 2002 Lexus ES300 which has a 1MZFE engine. Stupidly I went to change a tyre with the car jacked up and I used a breaker bar to crack the nut but I rotated the wheel, now the wheel rotates in park. So I think I broke the park pawl. And I want to know if I have to remove the transmission or engine, to fix it. Thanks in advance! -
0
HZJ78 TO HJ75 door compatibility
Could someone enlighten me as to whether a HZJ78 Troopy passenger door will fit a 1989 HJ75 ute. Also has anyone had any experience in replacing door pillar chassis sections. Thank you .Jamo new member -
0
Recent Common Issue Perth: Brake Noise After Pad Replacemt
As a mechanic based in Perth, I’ve recently seen a rise in customers coming in with brake noise issues shortly after having their brake pads replaced – often by third-party workshops or DIY jobs. 🛠️ Common Problem: Squealing or grinding noise just days after new brake pads are installed. Sometimes paired with vibrations or uneven braking. 🔍 Root Cause (In Most Cases): Cheap or low-quality brake pads Pads not bedded-in properly Rotors not resurfaced or replaced when necessary Missing anti-squeal shims or improper grease on contact points ✅ Our Fix: Full inspection of pad quality & rotor condition Proper application of brake grease & shims Brake rotor machining or replacement if needed Road test to confirm issue is resolved 🤝 Tip for Customers: Always ask for OE-quality pads and make sure your mechanic checks rotor thickness and applies anti-squeal compound during install. Let me know if you’ve encountered this issue — happy to help or answer questions. -
0
ZRE152R - rear caliper not releasing properly
G'day, Vehicle is a ZRE152R Corolla which has done plenty of kms without too many issues. A while ago I did notice the rear right caliper dragging, and put it off as I couldn't find a rebuild kit. Eventually it got pretty bad, so over the weekend I've put on new rear pads/disc, as well as a wrecker caliper that was in very good condition. Noticed on the original disc that the back had worn significantly more than the front. As part of this I pulled the caliper sliders out of the original carrier bracket, cleaned/degreased the entire bracket, put on new lithium grease and installed with new seals. Slider pins move freely in and out and have next to no wear. Bled the brakes, bedded the new pads in and took it for a quick drive - everything seemed fine but I thought I could hear a little bit of dragging still. Didn't think too much of it until I got home and noticed that the inner pad was cooked - it had been binding on the side closest to the center of the hub with wearing about half a mm into the new disc already. Since then I've pulled the wheel off, cleaned/regreased everything and checked everything functions as it should. I disconnected the handbrake at the caliper end, and pressing on the brake everything works well - but it doesn't release fully. I can wind the piston in without an issue, and it will extend without the pads in fine. Wracking my brains trying to think what else the issue could be - spoken to a few people who are insistent it's the slider pins binding up, but I've confirmed this isn't the case. Cheers -
2
Bought a 2006 Toyota Aurion Prodigy
Yeah just run your vin by Toyota and they'll tell you if the recall has been done I once owned a mint 380 vrx, drove super smooth I really liked that car. Upon selling it, I found nobody wanted it, depreciation was a killer- 1
-
-
3
-
0
Broken wiring --location help
Gooday, I'm new to this forum, hope someone can help. My vehicle is a 2007 Hilux SR {AUTO) GGN15R engine is a 4lt V6 1GR-FE. I replaced the starter motor and in the process broke/pulled out 2 wires one being black the other white. They are in convoluted tubing and exist the loom about 300mm from starter solenoid (towards front of vehicle) and the wires look as if they have come out of a plug, however I cannot see/locate any sensor/join to reconnect to in the radius of the length of wires. With the left front wheel off you can see 2 wires in convoluted tube behind the alternator. The new new starter works perfect however these 2 wires being OC have killed the motor... I cannot see any entry back into the convoluted tube wiring loom to allow wires to join -
0
Halogen bulbs to LED 200series Landcruiser
Can you change the halogen bulbs with led bulbs safely -
2
Bought a 2006 Toyota Aurion Prodigy
Hey guys, I just bought a 2006 Prodigy off my grandma, it only has 116000kms on the clock. It’s only had two owners, the Kalgoorlie gold mines and my grandma and I have the full service history (it has been taken care of very well). My first Toyota, I also own a 2007 Mitsubishi 380 GT. Firstly I would like to say, this car is not super mechanic friendly compared the 380, but it’s nothing compared to more modern cars. A couple thing I wanted to ask about, the dashboard, oil cooler lines, vvt lines, the transmission. Firstly, the dash is kinda sticky, and upon doing research (in this forum) it’s yeah a common issue for this time period for Toyotas, is a dash mat the best solution for this? I personally don’t like the look of a dash mat but I don’t have much choice. In 2016 at about 88426kms, the oil cooler pipe was replace due to leaking and I’ve heard that there were problems with the two rubber hoses and that Toyota made a full metal hose part, although I could not find these oil cooler lines when looking for them (18, not super mechanically inclined). Should I make sure the oil cooler pipes were replaced with the superior metal part? (oh and a side question, is the oil cooler in the radiator? I looked at the workshop manual and it suggested this) Now the vvti line oil line looks like the original with the rubber section, this will need replacing with the metal line yeah? (pic below) Also, the transmission has not been serviced, should I have it serviced? Oh and this car has had the stop light switch acting up in 2017, got fixed, then got replaced in 2021 (not sure if it was acting up chances are it was), then it was acting up a couple months ago as well, but I think that was actually the center brake light not working (fixed now). The water pump was replaced in 2016 due to leaking as well. Lastly is there anything else I need to be aware about with this car? Thanks for your time reading this.
-
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now