Toyota Aurion 2017 unlocking beep tone

[ZZT86]

Well I'll be damned, I put the key on the rear window's edge & it fired up, once !

It's not supposed to work according to the book, key must be inside the car or within 0.7m of internal receiver which appears to be near 12V power outlet. I'm intrigued as to why it worked the first time but not others. Key on floor next to open drivers door, no-go, key in my hand just outside the car & it works.

I guess it ain't 100% perfect, the 86 sometimes won't fire-up even with the key in the centre console 😐

[ZZT86]

14 minutes ago, nikolce said:

when the key is unlocked i got them to place the fob key on the front drivere seat closed the front door and i was able to open the boot lid

I just tried that with my 6/2016 car & it's not doing that, not even with the key on rear seat, must be outside near boot. I assume your car has a receiver fault somewhere, get them to fix it.

[nikolce]

maybe the reciver in the boot but where abouts do u know

[Tony Prodigy]

1 hour ago, nikolce said:

maybe the reciver in the boot but where abouts do u know

If the boot lid door entry unlock function does not operate, the request code may not be being transmitted from the boot lid door. If the entry functions for other doors operate properly, communication between the electrical key transmitter sub-assembly and door control receiver is normal. In this case, there may be a problem with request code transmission (communication between the certification ECU (smart key ECU assembly) and electrical key antenna (outside boot lid), a boot lid door outer switch malfunction or wave interference.

The receiver ( 'Electrical Key Antenna' ) for the boot lid open function is behind the rear bumper in the middle. If you plan to check this and other items associated with the boot open function there will be some disassembly involved. For the first part of the test you will need to remove the rear bumper to gain access  to the key antenna assembly and measure the  resistance at the white plug for terminals 1 & 2  It should measure below 1 ohm. If it measures above this value then it will require replacement. If it measures ok then you'll need to move to step 2 which is to check the opening switch assembly. This part is a bit fiddly and if you want to do this also let me know because there is further disassembly required.

If you had a decent scan tool it would pick up this issue as the ECU would log the fault code.

 

 

[Tony Prodigy]

I was outside this morning doing my usual inspections and thought I'd test the boot opening operation with the proximity of the key fob.

First, I tried placing the fob on the middle of the roof > Boot didn't open

Second, I tried placing the fob at the top of the rear windscreen > that didn't work either

Third, I placed the fob at the edge of the boot lid to the windscreen > It worked

Fourth, I placed the fob inside the car on the console > it didn't work

Fifth, I stood behind the car, fob in my left hand, hand on the open mechanism on the boot then at full stretch, roughly 1.5 metres it also didn't work

Sixth, I slowly decreased the distance to the boot and it was until I reached around 1 metre and it worked. 

So in summing up, the proximity is as they say around 1m or less, but the fob has to be within this circle to operate the wireless boot opening.

[Pittsy]

I noticed today when I locked my 2015 Presara there was no single buzzer or hazard lights flash. 3 Doors locked except the drivers door with the usual audible clunk.

Unlocking caused the normal audible clunk as the 3 doors unlocked with the normal double buzzer and hazard lights flash, so that’s normal.

Appears that my drivers door won’t lock and that causes the failure of the single buzzer and hazard lights flash. 
 

I’ll have to lock the car manually with the key until I can get it fixed by Toyota.

 

 

Edited November 12, 2022 by Pittsy