2003 Camry 2AZ−FE Very Fast Idle

[PaulW]

After repairing a leaking head gasket due to stripped head-bolt threads in block, the engine now idles way too fast.
Its around 1400 RPM on starting, eventually rising to 2100 RPM whilst idling in neutral. Drops to 1100 RPM when Drive is engaged.

I have checked for leaks around the inlet manifold, injectors and throttle body and found none (all new gaskets fitted during rebuild).
Also checked hoses for any cracks or splits.

Removed throttle body, cleaned it and checked operation of butterfly valve.
Also checked that the resistance range of the TPS was within spec.
I then tried to get the ECM to relearn the correct idle speed by following several of the suggested methods found via Dr Google but without success.

Finally I pulled the electrical connector from the IAC valve whilst the engine was running and the idle speed immediately dropped to 1400 RPM.

I suspect a problem with the IAC valve but before I pull it apart or buy a replacement I am consulting the collective wisdom of the members of this forum.

Any ideas?

 

[PaulW]

Problem Solved

I checked and cleaned the PCV valve with TB cleaner and ensured it was working correctly before installing it back into the valve cover.

Next I checked the inlet manifold vacuum and found it to be 17 in Hg on a cold start, rising steadily to 22 in Hg as the engine reached operation temperature.
This is in accordance with the data published in the Haynes workshop manual.

Finally it was time to check to IAC (Idle Air Control) valve. Luckily it could be removed from the car without again removing the throttle body.
It was full of black gunk which I removed with lots of TB cleaner and a small brush.
I then removed the electric actuator from the IAC to check and ensure that the valve could move freely on its shaft.

IAC Valve Body and Actuator

After reassembly I installed the IAC valve on the TB in the car and plugged in the electrical connector.

Upon starting the engine the idle revs went to 1000 RPM and then steadily dropped to around 650 RPM. Joy!

Did some extensive test driving and stopping to check idle, but its perfect.

So to sum up, happy camper, after Camry being off the road for 2 months.

[campbeam]

Good to know that you were on the right track.

I had the exact opposite issue with the IAC valve on my 1998 Camry. It would not idle without accelerator and this was after running very nicely for that Sunday drive.

In 10+ years of ownership and about 150,000 kms, I had never known to clean the throttle body and IAC valve. A few Google searches got me on the right track and now I clean the throttle body and IAC valve regularly on my current vehicles.

[Tony Prodigy]

Great result Paul. Nice DIY work and thanks for updating us. 

[PaulW]

I decided to tally up the cost of these repairs as a guide to others who may be contemplating doing these repairs themselves.

Parts and Services: $917.09

Tools:                        $142.18

Consumables:          $68.76

Total:                       $1,128.03

Of course the tools are now part of my tool collection and will be used on other projects. So too will some of the consumables that were not used up on the job.
I had been given estimates of around $2,500 to have this repair done professionally by a mechanical workshop so there were considerable savings by doing it myself.
Plus of course the satisfaction of doing it myself and learning lots on the way.

Regards

Paul

[campbeam]

37 minutes ago, PaulW said:

there were considerable savings by doing it myself.
Plus of course the satisfaction of doing it myself and learning lots on the way.

I got taught by my Dad to have a useful pair of hands otherwise you are paying people to do it for you. 

I have "invested" those savings back into tools so increase my capability to perform other tasks. Seeing that you are located in QLD, I can highly recommend Trade Tools if you want lifetime warranty quality tools at an affordable price. Good idea to subscribe so you get an email of their weekly specials. 

https://www.tradetools.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjwvuGJBhB1EiwACU1Aia8xBhb-nrFhDGpwrzcpqwB0kuJTx_2mukGv43fpni50dpLJB-KU4xoCS6kQAvD_BwE 

Well done with what you have achieved. It is not a simple task which I can appreciate after viewing some YouTube videos about removing and cleaning that IAC valve. 

DIY can be both frustrating and very satisfying. Certainly improves the self-satisfaction that you are useful with new learnings and skills, not useless.  

[campbeam]

On 7/22/2021 at 12:50 AM, PaulW said:

After repairing a leaking head gasket due to stripped head-bolt threads in block, the engine now idles way too fast.

Finally noticed this from your initial post.

Interested to know further details of this repair whether you DIY or sent to mechanical repair shop.

Fortunately, I have yet to experienced that sort of problem.

[Tony Prodigy]

9 hours ago, PaulW said:

Of course the tools are now part of my tool collection and will be used on other projects. So too will some of the consumables that were not used up on the job.
I had been given estimates of around $2,500 to have this repair done professionally by a mechanical workshop so there were considerable savings by doing it myself.
Plus of course the satisfaction of doing it myself and learning lots on the way.

The best part of being a DIY person is that you will accumulate many tools over the course of your life and they will most likely remain with you until the end of your life. Pass them on to your kids perhaps, whatever.
I'm still buying tools to this day, and as I always say... "you can never have enough tools" 😄
Most people who have the time and inclination to get their hands dirty will certainly benefit from the savings doing it yourself as opposed to having to pay someone to do the work for you. My last resort would be to pay someone if I'm incapacitated or unable to do it myself. 

As you said, there is satisfaction in being able to do it yourself and getting valuable experience along the way. This is turn allows you to impart that knowledge on very fine forums such as this. Win win.

Thanks for the update Paul.

Cheers 

[Tony Prodigy]

8 hours ago, campbeam said:

I got taught by my Dad to have a useful pair of hands otherwise you are paying people to do it for you. 

I was never taught as such, but looking back, I was always watchful of others and learned that way. My Dad is a very handy person, being a Carpenter, cabinet maker and a welder, among other things, there was always a workshop at our houses and plenty of tools for us kids to play around with. I remember the days I would grab a spanner and adjust the chain tension on my dragster bicycle lol. I would've been around 5 or 6 years old. Wrenching came naturally to me somehow. They were great days..

 

[PaulW]

8 hours ago, campbeam said:

Finally noticed this from your initial post.

Interested to know further details of this repair whether you DIY or sent to mechanical repair shop.

I sent the head to a local engineering workshop specialising in head reconditioning to be machined in case there was any warping.
The threads in the block were repaired by Mobile Threadfix who came to my house to do the job.

See my posting in a separate thread: https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/58786-2003-camry-acv36r-power-steering-pump/

 

 

 

[Ronnyboy]

On 9/8/2021 at 6:30 PM, PaulW said:

I decided to tally up the cost of these repairs as a guide to others who may be contemplating doing these repairs themselves.

Parts and Services: $917.09

Tools:                        $142.18

Consumables:          $68.76

Total:                       $1,128.03

Can you give a break down on the Parts, services and tools you ended up using?

[PaulW]

Hi Ron

Expenses break-down is as follows:

Parts & Services	Cost
Cooling System Pressure Test	$40.00
Thermostat-Radiator	$32.30
Seal-Thermostat	$4.75
Sensor Coolant Temp	$29.35
Coolant-Red Concentrate	$11.90
Hose, PC Ventilation	$49.70
Head machining	$99.00
VRS Gasket set	$198.00
Head Bolts	$44.00
Helicoil thread repair	$154.00
Crankshaft Seal	$24.80
Engine oil 5L	$18.00
Engine oil flush 300ml	$4.80
Oil filter	$11.05
Coolant-Red Premix 5L	$32.00
Power steering fluid	$16.00
Spark Plugs-4 off	$20.40
Micro-V Drive Belt	$51.00
RH Engine Mount	$28.05
Water Pump	$47.99
Sub-Total	$917.09
Tools	Cost
Fuel Line Disconnect Tool	$19.87
E-Torx Socket Set	$36.99
8x50mm Hi Tensile Bolts	$4.54
Hex Impact Socket Set	$29.99
M12 Spline Impact Socket	$16.50
Oil Can Flex Spout	$9.99
Steel, Flat bar	$13.90
Inline Sparkplug Tester	$10.40
Sub-Total	$142.18
Consumables	Cost
Degreaser 12 Cans	$12.00
Acetone 1 Litre	$12.00
Gasket Sealant RTV Black	$13.99
Throttle Body Cleaner	$4.37
Nitrile Gloves (100)	$26.40
Sub-Total	$68.76

All up Grand Total:                   $1,128.03

The Steel, Flat Bar and Hi Tensile Bolts, in case you're wondering,  was used to make a crankshaft pulley holding tool.

Regards

Paul