Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

The following install guide is given as a supplementary to the original TRD install. Because the instructions are in Japanese this might help a lot. I am in no way responsible for any damage incurred directly or indirectly from following these steps. Read in full before beginning.

I tried serching the internet and there are no guides to installing a rear strut blink.gif So here's mine.

http://sdrv.ms/Z3H6c4

Print at 100%, border-less. Before doing any cutting line up the template with the strut bar end to ensure it is to scale. The hole to be cut should measure approximately 44x19mm.

My steps will follow the TRD steps
Step 1.
sub-step 1: Is the bit of trim just behind the rear seats
-Get a flat head screw driver the remove the 2 plugs
-Just to the right of the center bolt is clip, just pull up while supporting around the clip
plugs.jpg
sub-step 2: This is the plastic thing around the striker plate in the boot
sub-step 3: No need to remove this
sub-step 4: This is the side bolster for the rear seats
-Pull the rear seat bottom forward by pulling on the little loop.
-In the bottom corner closest to the outside of the car is the location of the bolt that is pointed out, the carpet needs to be pulled forward where circled to see it
screwlocation.jpg
-Once that bolt is out just pull the bolster up.
sub-step 5: The rear inside side trim
-Make sure that when you pull it out that you dont drop the clips
sub-step 6: The white plastic thing above the bit from sub-step 5
-The bolt to remove is the black one just in front of the seat belt winder

added step 1: Remove the spare wheel
added step 2: Remove the tool trays by undoing the 2 nuts that are in each tray
added step 3: And obviously remove the parcel shelf and spare wheel cover

Step 2.
sub-step 2: That large circular thing is the seat belt winder
-The pictures explain it, you gotta be dumb to stuff this step up.

Step 3.
When using the template, cut out around the thing that locks the parcel shelf in place, this makes it easier to line everything up.
Fold along the top and bottom lines gently and place over the trim and line everything up including the folded lines which sit top and bottom the the folds in the plastic of the trim.
I just colored the hole in with a nicko and drilled it out and used a file till it was the size it needed to be. Constantly checking with the strut bar so I didn’t make the hole too big.

Put all your stuff back in following the steps above but obviously in reverse. Make sure not to over torque any bolts which go through plastic. Only tighten them a further 1/8 or less of a turn once they touch. The instructions show the torque settings for all bolts into metal.

And some pics:
right.jpg
left.jpg

Posted

Great work SuperDave. It's always nice when a member posts step-by-step instructions for a technical item as it saves all of the DIYers some money :D


Posted

When Silvabullit, Northy & myself put Northy's in, it took 4 farts, a few bad jokes and a professional oblonger to fit it.... :D

  • 1 month later...
Posted

sorry to bring back and old thread but i assume the part number for the trd rear strut is 53605-ZE200 is this correct? and if so does this also fit the facelift model?

  • 2 years later...
Posted

Or you could leave the trim off ;)

IMG_1126.jpg

IMG_1121.jpg

Posted
Or you could leave the trim off ;)

IMG_1126.jpg

IMG_1121.jpg

there goes ur peace and quiet.. good work thr thou andy ;)

Posted
IMG_1126.jpg

Great DIY mate!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: I see where I can potentially add something else ....

Toyota%20Altis%202008%20rear%202p.JPG

:P :P :P :P

Posted
IMG_1126.jpg

Great DIY mate!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: I see where I can potentially add something else ....

Toyota%20Altis%202008%20rear%202p.JPG

:P :P :P :P

Nice!! An actual rear strut bar that goes across the strut :P

I might consider getting one too if it fits. Guni you can be the guinea pig :lol: :P

Posted
IMG_1126.jpg

Great DIY mate!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: I see where I can potentially add something else ....

Toyota%20Altis%202008%20rear%202p.JPG

:P :P :P :P

Nice!! An actual rear strut bar that goes across the strut :P

I might consider getting one too if it fits. Guni you can be the guinea pig :lol: :P

find out if there are mouting points where the bar suppose to go.. i mite be able to get one cheap enuf to just have a shot at..

Posted
I might consider getting one too if it fits. Guni you can be the guinea pig :lol: :P

Always .... <_< No one ballz enuff in that dept for this case ..... :lol:

Posted
Nice!! An actual rear strut bar that goes across the strut :P

They aren't called strut bars because they go between the suspension struts. It gets it's name because a strut is a compression member.

  • 6 months later...
Posted

So by looking at that, the one Guni was/is selling is designed for the hatch only?

Posted
So by looking at that, the one Guni was/is selling is designed for the hatch only?

YES ! B)

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

interesting brace idea, I can see it working there. So what are the original threaded holes for in the first place?

Edited by Sam_Q
Posted
So what are the original threaded holes for in the first place?

Not sure which pic you're referring to, but I assume you mean the one in 'and1's' post; in which case that's the seat belt mounting point.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

bump this one up... the ultra racing one above fits the hatch too? and also i see that nengun don't have the part number for the trd rear strut no more. discontinued???

Posted

also i see that nengun don't have the part number for the trd rear strut no more. discontinued???

Correct.

:(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Join The Club

    Join the Toyota Owners Club and be part of the Community. It's FREE!

  • Latest Postings

    1. 18

      High idling on the 2zzge even when warm (solved!)

    2. 5

      High RPM Idle after the engine warm up.

    3. 0

      Tow bar

    4. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

    5. 0

      2011 Land Cruiser 1VD-FTV Engine Won't Start After Overhaul

    6. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

    7. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

    8. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

    9. 1

      Snapping wheel and axle studs

    10. 0

      2zz idle / roughness when accelerating past 3k

×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership