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NIKICH Grand Master

NIKICH

Posted
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At the last drag day that was attended by a few of the members a point was made by Dylan about how he couldnt land LIFT 1-2 because of the oil temp not being hot enough...

My question is, what is the optimal air temp where the motor is running at its best, The reading off the temp sensor would be good enough

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MR22ZZ Grand Master

MR22ZZ

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The lift controller works from the oil temp.

The temp gauge on the dash is water (coolant) temperature.

Hence the reason I'm getting some extra gauges ;)

My coolant temp was fine on the night but the oil in the sump was cooling down too much (~8 degrees ambiant Temp and 18 degrees track). The oil temp has to be above 70 degrees for it to go into lift, I estimarte I was between 55-65 degrees, because once I had shifted into 2nd it was able to engage lift again, so only borderline on the initial temps.

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RedLiner Grand Master

RedLiner

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DOES THE TEMP INCREASE IN THE SPACE OF 3 SECS??

LIKE DOES IT INCREASE FROM THE TIME U SHIFT FROM 1ST INTO 2ND IN TIME FOR 2ND TO HIT LIFT...

I DONT KNOW...FOR ME...IF 2ND IS CAPABLE OF HITTING ...THEN SO SHOULD FIRST...

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CHA54 Grand Master

CHA54

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i always thought it was based off water temp.

according to the manual and some experiments i tried with the r-vit... :blink:

yep water temp of 60c = lift, tested this out with the PFC.

The PFC's lift settings are completely different to the toyota ECU. You need an OBD2 scantool (or R-VIT) to accurately monitor what's happening with the stock ECU.

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MR22ZZ Grand Master

MR22ZZ

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It has to be oil temp. My coolant temp was above 1/3 on the gauge.

On my drive home it was working fine activating lift in 1st and has worked fine since. It was just at the track where it was really bloody cold and the can standing at idle for ages where it wouldn't.

Don't know how better to explain it then that...

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Northy Grand Master

Northy

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It has to be oil temp. My coolant temp was above 1/3 on the gauge.

On my drive home it was working fine activating lift in 1st and has worked fine since. It was just at the track where it was really bloody cold and the can standing at idle for ages where it wouldn't.

Don't know how better to explain it then that...

have a look in the manual, pretty sure its coolant temp, we have a coolant cooled oil cooler to so i would imagine that in cooler weather it would warm the oil up when its really cold too...

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MR22ZZ Grand Master

MR22ZZ

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hmmmmmm so is there any point in me getting an oil temp gauge then? :blink::blink::blink:

the only other thing I cna think of it the clutch may not have fully engaged on launch due to the wear. The other times I've made lift were with 'soft' launches. hmmmmmmmmm :unsure::unsure::unsure:

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SuperDave Grand Master

SuperDave

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hmmmmmm so is there any point in me getting an oil temp gauge then? :blink::blink::blink:

the only other thing I cna think of it the clutch may not have fully engaged on launch due to the wear. The other times I've made lift were with 'soft' launches. hmmmmmmmmm :unsure::unsure::unsure:

Not really. But it will tell you if your oil is running at a temperature which gives best protection (80 to 90*C)

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CHA54 Grand Master

CHA54

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you have to install a sender calibrated to the guage. Either use the sump plug type sender or install a sandwich plate like MAP81 has done.

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