ZEEROLLA

This is a problem with the drivetrain. The easiest method i found to go around the problem is to rev till you blush the rev-limiter then shift. You will find that the shifter loosens up completely and you can land LIFT easy. When you get more comfortable with it as time goes on you can shift quicker and harder and trust me, you will land LIFT at around 6200-6400rpm and get the wheels chirping hard!! As to actual fixes, Castrols Syntrax 75W90 Synthetic gearbox oil and Nulon G70 transmission additive did not fix it. Both can be purchased from Auto1 or Supercheap autos. I HIGHLY recommend changing the oil to synthetic and getting NULON's G70 transmission additive for greater protection and smoother shifting pre-lift. The new gear cable did nothing. Other guys here are saying a complete clutch and flywheel change solves the problem and it sounds convincing. But i will have to wait till my clutch is about to give way before i do that. Zee

Sorry Dylan, that's great news!!! The more Stivos the merrier!!!

Blue_Sportivo_VVTLi will not make it Tuesday the 5thOct. I will be meeting Dave on the humehwy. My Stivo will be prepped with "nothing", i just had my 10,000km service done a month ago so should not have bits falling off, i hope I will have the car better prepared the next time i turn up though, hopefully with some mods too. There is so much to look out for when we run the car on a track. I think i will get oil/water temp gauges the next time. Hey Qui, what cars are your mates driving? Just wondering too what happens if it starts to rain heavily? Will be unlikely but can happen. Zee

I don't think any Toyota dealership will replace a worn clutch. It is due to wear and tear and varies from car to car. I'm having mine replaced under warranty. Totally worn after just 45k km. ←

Organic clutches are easier to slip when you drive in traffic and stuff. Metal facing clutches are like brass-button clutches with much more friction and very hard to slip. Basically you will get a thump or hard vibration when you try to slip the clutch, if not the car just stalls because it grips in an instant. Many people stall the car when they have a metal face clutch in their car for the first time. Not recommended for street use.

I had that happen to me too mate, slow as grandma type of shifting and the gear still cruched! My car only had 2000kms on it then. But it seemed to have disappeared after i changed the gearbox oil to synthetic and added Nulon G70 transmission additive. But after all that i still think its a Clutch fault and i will have mine changed when i save up enough dough. The synthetic gearbox oil will help to protect the gears better though so i would reccomend doing it and change it every year or more frequently if finances allow. Remember the gearbox has no fliter like the engine does so all loose metal chippings will be floating around freely in the gearbox. Not good. Plus i find that when the car is jumping over bumps or when the wheels are spinning like crazy or when you bang the limiter, the shifting is smooth as silk to shift! WHY IS THAT??? Maybe the clutch got stuck with all the G-forces and when you suddenly hit a bump or bang the rev-limiter it all loosens up hence freeing the shifter??? Or maybe its the transmission mounts? Maybe, maybe, maybe...

You don't have to overprep your car with engine oil and the notion "expensive = better quality doesn't necessary work here". Got this quote from Best Motoring. Its okay to use the oil provided by your manufacturer and just have it changed regularly depending on what sort of driving you do. Synthetic 5W30 oil would be fine for the 2ZZ-GE.

Why not Tuesday :o there will be 4 Stivos turning up then!! Monday will probably be packed since its a public holiday.

I am keen for the 16th Oct. The 9th is election day and i also need to catch up on some US politics that night :D

Also need to find out from you guys, i am a novice to the track scene and need to know what you guys do to prep up for it eg. extra engine oil for topping up after, better brake pads etc. I am calculating the costs and see if i can get the Stivo prepped before the 5th Oct. I drive a stock Stivo except a Strutbar and K&N filter mod so would be good to baseline with the GTI180 and ScreaminRollas Stivo. Cheers, Zee

I will turn up for this one if i am not working that day or the day after. Anyone set a date yet?

I am feeling real tempted here and i am not working that week. I live in Shellharbour and would probably take me 3-4 hours to get to Wakefield and i have never been there. Maybe i can meet up with Screaminrolla somewhere.. Will let you guys know..

I heard new clutches need to be "run in", but correct me if i'm wrong. Give it 500-1000km or so to bed in properly and don't drive too hard during that period.

GOOO THE STIVO!!!

I think the thrust bearing is related to the sticky shifter at high revs rather than the noise.

For those who just joined the forum, what are you guys planning to buy? We can organise a group buy here on this forum and Bruce can give us a better deal. We did that before with TRD Strut brace and CAI. Go to the Buy & Sell section and post a topic on what you are planning to get and see if other people are interested. You can save a bit of money by getting it in a group. Zee

Apparently Corollas ZZE12# models have been known to encounter thrust bearing issues, someone mentioned this before. I think someone with a Stivo has had their thrust bearing looked at or replaced. If i am not wrong it is related to the drivetrain eg. clutch, gearbox or drivshaft?

That's correct as per service manual.

To put it in your teminology: It's a seam tearing f@rt quickly followed by a bowl shattering, a$$hole stretching mother of all dumps. :D Have not dynoed before and after but my seat of the pants tests have me believing (with no doubt) it makes a huge difference to the driveability of the car. I can really feel it from 3000rpm onward. Any of the guys here who have done the TRD CAI will say the same thing. If I was to get a new Stivo tomorrow I would order the CAI for it today. No questions. After the recall i can feel a much greater response between 2000-5000rpm. I think the CAI now post recall will make less of a difference. But how is the top end? I feel that the Stivo still lacks a little top end oomph :P .

If it is not in the service book, DON'T DO IT! They are bloody ripping us off. Of course its your choice but it is not something detrimental to the car's performance or engine durability. Plus you only have 30,000kms. Save the $200 for something else.

Welcome mate!! Seems like we have quite a few more Stivo owners signing up for the forum recently which is great news. As for mods mate 200kw is a little too far fetched ;) If you want the car to be reliable, go NA tuning with some mild mods like a better air-filter or CAI, Headers, ECU mods, divetrain mods eg. lightened flywheel or if you have the cash a set of close ratio gears for gearbox. That will give you a much improved package that will probabaly net you 150plus kw @ flywheel and a 1/4 mile in the high 13-14second bracket. Be prepared to spend at least AU$5000 for those mods (not including close ratio gears). Cheaper alternative for more horsepower is forced induction and there are many ways you can go about it.. custom setup, TRD, turbocharge or supercharge etc. It all comes down to what you want for your car and how you wil be driving it. One more thing, 200kw for a FWD car will be a total disaster. There are so many things that can go wrong. You will be better off with a RWD or AWD car if you are after that sort of power. Cheers, Zee

I also have some sort of noise but i have now learnt to just leave it until something is really broken (touchwod) because pressing the issues and complaining about something i feel is wrong with the car has taken up too much of my time. It is just a tiring process and i would rather forget it and have it fixed uder Warranty when something is really broken. Then i will put all the blame on Toyota for not manufacturing a reliable car and for not checking the car thoroughly during service. That is why i always try to service the car at Toyota dealerships so that they have less excuses. I still love the Stivo although it has quite a few niggly problems for a Toyota but the Stivo is just great value for money and i just love the satisfaction when i drive the bugger hard!! Zee

it is only visible when u open the driver side door, its on the body of the car near the hinges. i can't remember what it had on it but i do remember it had thr date of the recall on it. It also has the recall number written on it. You can't miss it if you look at the car with the door open, as mentioned near the hinges. My car is driving better now with nearly 300kms post recall. It's the clutch that is going soon i think. I baselined my Stivo's performance post-recall with a V6 Holden Commodore Ute yesterday. It had a huge tacho/shiftlight so i suspect its modded. We took off at the lights rolling start on an uneven road with a bend. I didn't land in LIFT 1-2 (5900rpm) and hit limiter 2-3 for faster change-up but the result was the Ute beat me by 1/4 - 1/2 body length. I kept up with him all the way in LIFT and maybe took some ground. The only time he gained on me was at the start before i hit LIFT and when i fell out of LIFT 1-2 just for a split second. I beat a VY Commodore Ute V6 with exhaust mod before when i launched hard and landed LIFT 1-2. But i was amazed yesterday the Ute didn't pull away much at all at the start with his V6 torque. When i hit LIFT 1st gear i was nearly right beside him, by then he was in 2nd giving his all. It was very close-matched.

The compliance date should be on the metal stamp where the built date is in the engine compartment. It usually is a couple of months after the built date.

How did you go in the dyno shootout mate? Kicked some butt?