WildfireATX

Just for the record scooters do not have a CVT they have a centrifugal clutch and one gear that jsut revs until the motor is at max capacity.

No fixed date yet but will be either a sat or sun afternoon in either late september or early october. I will get back with dates once i have numbers i need numbers to book or i'm out a grand.

If you like flat spots feel free to handbrake in any car!!! I personally cant stand the thud thud

Calling All WA members!!! To celebrate getting my licence back after 3 years (been on extraordinary licence for a while now) i am organising a Motorkhana day at the RAC Driving Centre at the airport. It invovles a dirty great big skid pan with a course set out in witches hats. It costs roughly $80.00 if i get 10 ppl Less if i get 16 togetehr. I can account for at least 6 people already but any interest is welcome. You can thrash your car with no trouble from anyone. i doubt you will get out of second gear but its loads of fun and you can put your car up against at least one soarer, a commodore, possibly a WRX a skyline and some AE86's so register if your itnerested discretion is mine if u come or not.

Lots of good questions i can asnwer a couple of them for you. The Traction Control is very quick to cut in but you can disable it with a combination of brake pedal and "footbrak" pushes as follows; Start car in park with footbrake off and door closed. Engage Footbrake Hit brake Pedal Twice and release Release footbrake and then hold brake pedal down. Engage and disengage footbrake twice whilst remaining on normal brake. Release normal brake and enggage footbrake pump brake pedal twice. The little "skidding car" light on your dash that usually indicated traction control in effect will come on and stay on. Traction control is now off and remains so until you turn car off and restart. Unless you "steer" with your right foot tyre wear should be the saem as any normal vehicle it really depends on your driving style. I understand the TRD suffers from herrondous torque steer without traction control and even with it but if you keep a slow in fast out sort of line it can be a wonderful car. The engines are exactly the same apart from minor differences (mainly the 4 lobe charger on top) Even the exhaust is nearly exactly the same apart from mufflers from what i understand. The ECU is mapped differently but thats again because of the supercharger. Servicing is same as a standard aurion under warranty it should be capped at $120 a service. No you cant plug your laptop in and mess with the ECU settings. there are VERY few aftermarket parts for the aurion browse the forums you will see most people are adapting kits from the camry in US. There are a few suspension mods you can get like braces etc once again browse the forums. As for how much boost i dont know but i would estimate somwhere in the 5-8psi region. Overall i WOULD reccommend the aurion to anyone the TRD is really for die-hards only if you want a sporty ride get the ZR6 its plenty fast and handles great for a car its size.

Talk about unusual its weird for any new toyota to have an oil leak huh? I hope its just a manufacturing defect and not anything more serious.

$500 each whoa dont be wearin em out too quick fella's. thats about what $50 bucks a meter for laying rubber? I suppose 20's are a status thing i cant justify that kind of money

The iPod i have no idea as for the tinting i got mine at time of purchase for nothing as it was end of month and i got the impression the guy really needed a sale but shop around for aftermarket tint you'll get it cheaper. The Aurion Floor Mats are of a very good quality once again i got mine thrown in but yes that price seems fairly accurate but try eBay theres always some person looking for a quick buck. I dont know what toyota charge for a new key but falcons and commodores etc it costs anwhere from $250 to $400 for a new key to get coded etc. My advice get aftermarket tint. Invest in a replacment head unit/dvd touch screen for longevity of quality sound and ipod connectivity. And look for some Mat's eklsewhere or fork out the dosh. But its only advice you dont have to take it

I think with the massive budget toyota has for R&D they probably would have done that if they thought it would impact the car. But as standard it seems to work pretty good does ti really need anyhting done? Come on people toyota aren't thick if it needed fixing toyota would have done it before they put it on the car. LEAVE IT ALONE

You wanna see power to weight jump on you tube and look up "r1 powered go-kart" There are several go-karts on the tube powered by motorcycle engines this one is particularly difficult to handle i am sure i hear it losing traction through all six gears!!!!

These days your lucky if at all your can interchange parts as most manufacturers whilst keeping cost down share major parts such as chassis and panels engines etc only. Its not like the good old days where if you had a busted corolla you could source from corona, celica, sprinter, etc. Very few manufacturers these days have new cars with parts than can be "swapped" in fact i understand they go to lengths to make it harder so that you end up with genuine parts more often getting them more profit. Its a pain but really your better off getting the right parts for the right car. Or aftermarket parts specifically designed for your vehicle. Better result all around in my opinion. Or if you have money to burn find a fabricator if you spend enough you can get just about anything made these days. I work for an aluminium company and firms like sprintex actually buy billet off us to manufacture plenums, manifolds, intercooler brackets, even supercharger body's. But as i said its all money buddy. To quote an old saying if its got t*ts or tyres its gonna cost you!!!

Nice choice APB its nice to see a P Plater out there with a brain you went for the smart choice most would have gone for the typical falcon or bombadore. As i've seen quoted those particular cars are 4 wheeled bullets designed to kill p platers

The fiance has the car today but off the top of my head i dont know the name they where $150 each for 215/60/16's and the dunlops where on special for 134 i got the kumho's for 150 each including disposal of old tyres. Apparently whilst the dunlops are a good tyre they are a relativley soft compound tyre hence the grip but the trade off is if you push your car a bit they have wear issues.

Email toyota and ask them they should know. Or drop into a dealer and ask them to do it shouldnt take but a minute

I still think you should stick to your guns and demand proof why the cats have anything to do with the mufflers in regards to failing. I've seen cars shoot their muffler guts out tailpipe on a dyno before but realistically your not in that situation. Or as said previously upgrade to a full system and be done with it.

I would contact the place where yout got the cat back done and ask them if it could contribute and ask if its possible for them to be contacted by toyota they r blowing smoke up ya and trying to touch you up. Very un toyota to be honest. they actually said to me nice job lowering it and didnt say anything about warranty issues.

As far as i know i wouldnt think mufflers after the cat's could contribute in any way to the failure of the cats really? For the flow to increase through the cats surely its the manifolds that would need to be modified to increase flow. I highly doubt your mufflers had anything to do with the failure of cat's.

Filled it with Petrol Still stoked with 60 bucks a week and 700 kays a tank go toyota!

Certain head units will only read MP3's encoded on certain software with certain signatures etc. Older ripped MP3's may get skipped altogether i have had issues with soem folders being skipped altogether because i ripped them over 5 years ago. Could just be my crappy computer though

Age:29 Sex Male Status: Engaged Reason for buying: I needed a car to use on my car allowance as a sales rep. Rather than going for the tradiotnal white commodore my boss said "whats an aurion?" Two days later i picked up my ATX i couldnt justify the extra for the sportivo's realistically superficial differences. (i know the suspensions different and the dash and body kti etc) I liked the dash in the aTX better less cluttered and easy to read. So i got a "end of month" special and scored spoiler, mags, window tint, satnav, trip computer floor mats all the little tack on's that usually cost extra and i picked it up for 32990 brand new. STOKED. Long story short there are now 2 other rep's with aurions having traded the "recalladore omega's" The only issue i have with the car was apparent wheel alignment issue strait off the dealer lot it pulls to the left a little. Changes since new in March: Pedders Springs and new tyres (SEE Aurion Tyre Noise Topic) Changes to come: Fitting Lukey Race Mufflers and tips in next month or so.

Naturally i agree each to their own however if you are going to do something do it right spend some real dollars and get some real gains i always say. I've owned a plethora of tuner cars over the last 15 years from subaru STI's through to skylines even an old starion and all those cars had the ability to do "Tweaks" and gain power. The Aurion realistically thanks to its DBW throttle and "Smart" ECU doesnt effictivley lend itself to tweaks it does however from the thigns i'm notcing now thanks to money spent on good quality suspension etc lend itself to handling improvment. If you want a blast your rear off 1/4 mile buy a nitrous kit or buy the TRD. Otherwise respect it for what it is a good fun relativley quick car that you can chuck the kids and dog in the back of if you need to or take to the track and just get an ever widening smile as you nail it out of corners.

Why is everybody so interested in bypassing things anyhow? Isnt it a pretty good package how it is? I dont see why doing such tiny minuscle mods is important in the slightest if its not going to make some extreme drastic change in the performance of the vehicle such as bolt on's like coil overs and braces exhausts etc. Honestly the Aurion is a fast car stiffen the SUS right up and give it a nice exhaust the firmer ride and placebo echaust note will trick your brain and it will feel oh so much faster. Stop messing with toyota's hard work on the engine and make it handle better !!!

A good question, however the engines are from two different family tree's from what i understand. The M blocks and G Blocks are completely different not to mention i dont think the 1MZ is VVT? Someone correct me if i am wrong but from what i understand there are no interchangeable parts directly from one engine to the other. I do however think that some of the suspension and brakes are possibly interchangeable? Anyone know?

Back to the subject of tyres, The standard Dunlop 300E sports on the aurion are apparently a good tyre (215/60/16) however i had the unfortunate incident of a truck pulling out in front of me when they where only 2500k's old and having driven manuals for the last 15 years of course my instincts took over and i went for yup you guessed it clutch and brake at same time to brake hard and hit the "footbrake" and flat spotted the back tyres. I have replaced them with kumho's and put them on the front have to say definitley a quieter grippier tyre all round for only 15 bucks more each than the dunlops. Note to self... Car is auto dont go for clutch next time.

The shift lock is mainly for maintenence so that mechanics can shift the car into neutral without having to start the car up. And thats all its for really. As for a lock out? if you driving that furiously you can accidentaqlly knock it into reverse? I think you need to settle down and think a bit before driving that furiously again.