CHA54

ok, my mods I have done to my cars, I'll start with the ones I still own and are registered. 2001 WRX: -Custom made Fulcrum coilovers with Koni inserts and progressive rate springs on threaded sleeves -Whiteline antilift kit -Whiteline adjustable rear swaybar -CNC machined short shift lever -3" BPM GT exhaust from the turbo back with optional silencer -18" Advanti atomic rims with 225/40/18 Michelin Pilot Preceda's The suspension setup in the rex took away the inherent understeer associated with the WRX, the short shift was mostly cosmetic which reduced the thrown by 80mm, the exhaust allowed the turbo to spool 700rpm sooner. 1988 toyota chaser: -1ggte manual from factory -JZA70 supra LSD center installed in the chaser housing (G series clutch type -1jzgte swap about to be commenced with the R154 manual box which "internet people" say wont fit... -JIC rear coilovers with 300lb rear fixed rate king springs, custom front coilovers with 400lb front fixed rate king springs -Nissan R33 4 pot front brake upgrade with Falcon BA slotted rotors No real performance figures for this one yet, should do high 12's on the quarter when I'm done with it in 2 months time 1992 AE94 Hatch: -AE111 20V engine conversion (performed in my garage by myself in 4 days) -AE111 C56 close ratio LSD gearbox with equal length shafts -AE111 short shift -AE111 "superstrut" front brakes (twin piston) with custom machined ST185 discs reduced in diameter to 260mm and redrilled to 4x100 -AE93 SX rear disc brake swap -2.25" press bent exhaust from factory AE111 20V headers -AE93 strut brace -AE93 SX seca interior -Custom front speaker pods -Whiteline adjustable front and rear swaybars -Cusco coilovers -17" rims with falken 451 205/40/17's -Zender rear wing and front spoiler -Custom paint -Custom CAI -Custom Alarm install This is the car I built for my girlfriend for her everyday car. I did ALL the work on it, all mechanical, electical, fabrication and paint. No performance figures yet but we have a full day organised at Darlington Park Raceway next month where I'll get some times for it. I'd expect a low 15 second quarter mile, but 20V's are slow as **** IMO anyway. AE71 Corolla Sedan -4agte -K24 turbo on cast blitz manifold with blitz external wastegate. -cut and shut smallport 4age inlet manifold also tapped for intake air temp sensor -MAP 4agze ECU and DLI with Greddy Emanage piggyback with my custom circuit to allow timing control (which the "internet people" said couldn't be done...) -custom made engine loom -W55 gearbox on custom W>4A bellhousing -stock bog-warmer rear diff soon to be upgraded to a shortened R31 item. -15x7 speedstar mesh rims with garbage cheap 195/50/15's -KYB commodore rear struts with king low springs -KYB inserts in AE85 front struts with king low springs -whiteline front and rear swaybars -whiteline strut brace -Bosche fuel pump -1ggte intercooler -blitz BOV probably a bunch more stuff I cant remember off the top of my head... this one has about 150kw at the fly with a lot more torque than the NA motors. I built this car as it was cheap and I wanted to prove a few points that "internet people" said couldn't be done. Now I'll move on to cars which I no longer own, and others I'm currently doing work on. 1990 AE93 SX corolla -AE101 20V engine conversion -AE111 C56 close ratio gearbox -AE111 short shifter -CRX seats on custom modified AE92 seatrails -17" Advanit Vallen's with 205/40/17 Kuhmo 712's -AE101 twin piston superstrut front brakes on reduced diameter superstrut discs with custom slotting performed. -Monroe GT gas shocks all round with King low springs -2" exhaust -custom CAI -Custom Stereo install including 2x10" subs in custom enclosure. -Custom alarm install -blah blah blah This was my old SX that was sold to MAP81. After it was sold I did the 20V and driveline swap for him, along with the brake upgrade and stereo install, all electrical work etc. 1989 Corolla CS sedan -1991 MAP 4agze conversion -E58 gearbox with equal length shafts -custom 4 puck ceramic clutch with balanced flywheel -Levin GTZ front seats -Levin GTZ dash and climate control -Superstrut twin piston front brake upgrade with custom discs -custom moulded pod for boost and AF guages -KYB struts all round with king low springs -Levin GTZ rear disc conversion with custom bushes to fit drum brake rear arms (which had not been done in Aus before) -whiteline rear swaybar -AE94 EFI fuel tank and lines -levin GTZ front suspension subframe and swaybar -Custom CAI with integrated scoop in front bar -Custom stereo install with fabricated speaker pods front and rear -aftermarket central locking and alarm install -HKS 164mm crank pulley with HKS topmount etc etc etc This is my old supercharged sedan which ended up being sold to a mechanic that works for Motorama Toyota in Brisbane. It's a very quick car and has massive amounts of torque from 1500rpm, it would be gone in the distance before a stivo had time to reach 'lift'. This car is a fair amount quicker in a straight line than my WRX due to it's light weight and torque. The new owner has not had it down the quarter mile yet and I only had it out on the circuit at queensland raceway so no drag times. Then there's all the other car's I've done electrical and mechanical work on, soarers, corollas, pulsars, etc. and the last but not least... 2003 Levin (belongs to MAP81): -Tein spring install -Greddy emanage install on custom fields harness, yet to be tuned by Mercury Motorsport -Custom CAI Now on this car, I fabricated the fields harness myself so the emange install does not compromise the factory loom, and it can be installed/removed without any trace. This is different to the normal unichip/emanage/safc/other piggyback install which involves hacking into your factory loom which voids the factory electical warranty. I expect about an 8-10kw gain at the wheels on Marks car, we will see when Mercury are ready to tune it, at this stage they haven't done an emanage tune and we're not comfortable paying them $140 an hour to learn how to tune an emange. The last one I had done was at Redcliffe dyno on a different car and we picked up 40kw ATW (turbo motor obviously), but Mark would prefer to go to Mercury for the tune on this one. So have I put my mods where my mouth is? :P Shao, Northy and MAP81 all know my cars.

...at least the forum community now knows they have options. I'd be very suprised if the same setup from NPC was not $150 cheaper. Seeing how you dont want to share the price you personally paid, or even give a range, let's guess Bruce gave you a $200 discount from his retail price listed on his website (in this case I would take back my statement that he doesn't make a fortune from selling these parts because that would mean he has more than 30% margin on the setup). The same setup from NPC is $250 at most, cheaper if you buy more. Where did you get your Daikin quote from? it doesn't sound competetive... I've been buying car parts for years from all round the place, and I like to share the info I find to assist other forum members in their purchases and save them money.

ok, for those out there that dont fully understand... Exedy is the OEM for the TRD 31210-AE100 pressure plate, and you can save a lot of money by purchasing the "non-shiney" item. People are free to spend their money on whatever label they want, it just pays to be educated in your purchase. Can anyone here tell me the difference between the 31210-AE100 TRD pressure plate and the 700kg Exedy TC03T pressure plate apart from the colour of the pressed steel cover? The pivot point is exactly the same (ie same clutch "weight"), the clamp pressure is exactly the same, the cover is the same, etc etc. The only difference is price. http://toyota-trd.jp/en/strt/d_clutch.html In Japan the retail price of the TRD cover is about 27000yen, and the online retail price for the Daikin/Exedy is between 20000 and 25000... Those are for the same part. Toyota has a massive markup on most spare parts and if you know the right people you can usually obtain up to a 60% discount off the genuine RRP. So it should be no suprise that a major clutch provider can sell the same clutch setup at Toyota's "cost" price. Bruce probably doesn't pay the Toyota cost price for his parts, so he wouldn't be making a fortune on his sales. So in the case of the TRD clutch, you definately do not get what you pay for, unless you want the rice value of a "TRD Clutch" to add to your signature.

I'd hope it was a lot less than $500 delivered, did it come with the throwout bearing? The last custom clutch I had done was $300 for a full faced plate with heavy duty cover (higher than TRD spec), flywheel surfacing, balancing the assembly and a new throwout bearing. The one before that was $500 for a custom 4-puck sprung center ceramic faced plate with uprated pressure plate (higher than TRD spec again) with throwout bearing, flywheel surfacing and assembly balancing. I'd highly recommend Nick's performance clutches for any performance need. http://www.npcperformance.com.au/index.html Here's a pic of another clutch I got for $190, heavy duty pressure plate with full face exeedy disc, throwout bearing and flywheel surface. ps, check out the similarities between the $100 heavy duty pressure plate and the TRD item above ;)

what price was the clutch? I'm interested to see how it compares to a custom item from Nick's Clutch Service.

high compression does not help a supercharger "work faster". Superchargers are belt driven, not exhaust gas driven like turbo's. It helps turbo's spool a little better, but a slightly lower compression would allow you to run more boost safely.

http://www.turbomagazine.com/features/0211tur_celica/ You would probably need some piping modifications and custom brackets for the cooler. Also after my recent experience with 1zzfe ECU's from the corolla and celica, you would most likely have to re-pin your sportivo ECU harness to work with the celica ECU unless you got the blitz kit specifically designed for the japanese 6-speed corolla fielder or whatever they call it... at 627,900yen it's still fairly expensive.

if you care about your engine you would change your "100,000 km" plugs at 50,000, especially if you drive it hard. That's what I've done with my other car, the plugs do take a bit of a beating and it doesn't hurt to pay $60 at a 50,000km interval.

the only thing you got ripped on was the coolant. That price is for the post-mix stuff, which makes 8L of coolant, which they do not use all 8L of. But there's nothing you can do about that as they only sell the stuff in 4L bottles for the cars getting a coolant flush. The price on the filters are at the top end of the range, and there was a price drop on the plugs two months ago where the over the counter cost at the parts dealer I go to is $14ea inc GST for the platinum plugs, cheaper again if you buy in lots of 20 The dealers have to make money somewhere, and it looks like that dealer makes it on their parts aswell as labour.

what was the parts breakdown? genuine oil filter is $14-20 air filter $20 sump washer $1.20 ? ? ?

it's usually a tuned length to reduce intake noise. If you run a fat pipe down into the guard the box will have a nice feed of cold air. pm MAP81 for details.

how do you get carbon in your injectors?

I asked a service manager about the "injector clean" they do for $200, which was spraying a bit of Wynn's injector cleaner down the intake. It's $20ea to have injectors ultrasonicly cleaned, flowed and balanced with new seals if you remove them yourself.

the AE11x shifters are a pain to swap the shaft in unless you got the whole assembly including the plastic base. If you got the whole lot including the base, just unclip the shift cables from the front by removing the two spring clips, then remove the end of the shift cables from the shift lever, unbolt the assembly from the chassis, and install the AE111 assembly in it's place. If you just got the lever, then you have to dissasemble the plastic assembly around the shifter, which involves prying off the metal ring fasteners on the end of the shafts that run through the plastic cage that holds the shifter in place. It's hard to get the retainers off without damaging them. Here's a pic of the last AE111 frontcut I got, and a second pic of the topview of an AE101 plastic shifter beside an AE92 metal item, the AE111 assembly is similar to an AE101. http://www.rollamods.com/holding/ae111cut.jpg http://www.rollamods.com/holding/shifters.jpg

it's actually a whole lot less dodgey than using vampire splices and bullet connectors like some "professional" installers use. This method doesn't compromise the factory loom at all, and it does work... :P The best part is you can remove it, and no-one will ever know it was there in the first place, unlike a unichip etc which splice into the factory loom. This is essentially the same as the older HKS FCON setups that use a "fields" harness for quick installation/removal. Out of the following, which would you prefer in your car? this: or this:

as far as warranty goes, any splices/cuts made into the original factory electrical looms void the electrical warranty for the car. If you want to DIY for the install, here's the pinout for the sportivo ECU and the relevant wires. I personally like to use a separate power and ground to the ECU for my installs. http://www.rollamods.com/holding/2zzge6mt.jpg

...do you think that's the "real" cost of the parts? I've got a few bits from toyota at "cost" price now, the markup is phenominal.

...you will find that the ECU reads the coolant temperature to determine when lift etc can be engaged, it does not measure the oil temperature.

the latest dyno dynamics software in shootout mode works on road speed, it's quite good with only 1-2kw difference between 3rd and 4th. You have to select the gear that keeps the road speed within a certain range.

the "butchering" involves heating the ball section on the shift lever up with an oxy torch, then moving it along the shaft (towards the top) by the amount required to make the lower section of shaft to the balljoint the same length as the TRD lever, you can even move it more for an even shorter shift. In this pic you can see a standard AE92 shifter, which is the same basic design as the AE101 and AE111 shifters with the difference being the length above and below the ball. http://www.rollamods.com/holding/shiftermod1.jpg In the next pic you can see one of the AE92 TRD short shift kits which comes with a knob, lever, spacers and bolts, the spacers are required in the AE92 so the bottom of the extended lower section does not come in contact with the chassis. http://www.rollamods.com/holding/shiftermod2.jpg The AE10x's and AE11x's use plastic shifter housings and spacers are not required, one one of the two different AE92 metal housings the spacers are also not required. This pic shows a comparison of the stock AE92, AE101 and AE111 shifters, with the AE111 being the shortest. http://www.rollamods.com/holding/shiftermod3.jpg and lastly we have a modified shifter which has had the ball moved up the shaft approximately 25mm. If you understand mechanics then you will realise how much of a difference increasing the section below the ball makes. This shifter was tack welded to ensure the ball stays in one spot after the mod, but my preferred method is to drill the ball and install a spring pin that goes into the shaft. http://www.rollamods.com/holding/shiftermod4.jpg To do this mod, you need access to some equipment most ricers wont have, which is why you see so many "custom short shifts" which are just the top of the lever sawn off with a hacksaw... If done properly (usually at the cost of a slab) by a friend, there is no functional difference between a modded shifter and the expensive TRD item. If you dont know anyone with the tools to complete this mod you can usually take the shift lever to an engineering shop/fabricator and tell them what you want done and how far you want the ball moved and they will do it for $20-50. The levers I had shortened were done at a Toyota service center for the cost of a spare lever so the mechanic could make one for himself aswell. ps, here's a real AE92 quickshift. If you want a pic of the AE11x item unboxed let me know. http://www.rollamods.com/holding/ae92quickshift.jpg

MAP81 should have also pointed out the damage the EBC pads can do to your factory discs if you give them a hard time... take for example this pic of MAP81's old brakes after an afternoon mountain run...

The shifters are directly interchangable. The 5-speed AE111 uses a C56 gearbox, you most likely have a C52 or C50 attached to your 7afe, check the VIN plate in the transaxle section. With a modified shifter, there is absolutely no difference in function or feel between a "home made" short shift and the $400 TRD item apart from the knob. The throw between gears with my stock standard AE111 shifter from a BZ-V Levin is about 80mm at most. I've got the measurments of the TRD shaft and the spacers from each model if you want to DIY, the gearknobs can be obtained for about $30-50 through a few Aus importers second hand, I have one in my 20V AE94. As for a source of the AE111 assemblies, the Oz clubman forums etc are a good place to source them because the clubman guys that purchase frontcuts for their kit cars have no need for the shifter or gearbox. If you obtain a C56 from one of those guys aswell then you will have more "sports orientated" ratio's to work with, with the possibility of scoring an optional factory LSD.

dont waste your money on the TRD item, You can get exactly the same performance for under $50. Try and get a shift assembly from an AE111 20V frontcut, the throw is a lot shorter, and will bolt straight into your AE112. I have used ae111 shifters in a couple of AE92's now and the difference is massive. (your AE112 uses a C series box and the same style of shifter as the AE92, the body of your assembly will be plastic, the AE92's is metal, the AE111's is plastic.) For the price of a TRD shifter, you could have your original and 10 others all modded to the same spec. You shorten the top section, and lengthen the lower section. This can also be achieved with an oxy torch and a hydraulic press to move the ball up the shaft.

The pressure you should run will depend entirely on the type of tyre you have on your wheels. You will usually find that the higer performance tyres are meant to be inflated to higher pressures, eg the Pilot Preceda's on one of my cars are meant to be inflated to 55psi, which is what I run them at. The tyre placard on that car states 35psi. The tyres have all round better performance when inflated to the manufacturers specifications.

and remember the US exhaust is different to the australian in order to meet the US regulations which are tougher than the Aus reg's.