CHA54

well the last time I had a look under MAP81's levin the piping was much larger than 2", I was very suprised. Instead of speculating, why doesn't someone get dirty and actually have a look at one of your cars??? It only takes 20 seconds. The noise level of the exhaust and the backpressure is determined by the type of muffler used. FWIW, the stock exhaust size on a 1.6L AE111 20V 4age is 2.25"

...I guess you're talking about the 20V, in which case SA must have got more power than Japan then... A factory blacktop 20V was put on Motec's engine dyno for testing, and these are the figures it made... http://www.billzilla.org/realblacktop.jpg This was running with all the ancillaries, ie waterpump, alternator, ac compressor, ps pump etc. And here is toyota's claimed engine dyno figures... http://www.billzilla.org/silvervsblack.jpg can anyone see the difference? Yep, about 20kw at the flywheel. If you remove the waterpump, alternator, ac compressor and ps pump the engine makes another 20kw... Too bad you can't actually use the motor without a waterpump or alternator. The 20V's perform a LOT better with just the PS pump and AC compressor removed.

it costs extra for the center caps for the P1's

...the software version the dyno is running also plays a big part in the numbers, as does it's calibration. In Brisbane, a friend of mine had their car dyno'd at one tuner on a friday and made 105kw ATW, the following day his car club had a dyno day at another tuner also using a dyno-dynamics machine in Brisbane, and the same car made 130kw ATW... With absolutely no mods done to the car in between the two runs. So that was a 25Kw atw difference on the SAME car on the SAME type of dyno... Dyno's are tuning tools, I take most figures from dyno's with a grain of salt. The 1/4 mile times and trap speeds are a better indication of real "power" so to speak. I'd be interested to see a sportivo graph done in 5th, and a normal levin/ascent/whatever run in 4th on the same dyno (C52 in the levin has 4th gear close enough to 1:1). That would be an interesting comparison, especially the tractive effort plots.

..Australian Design Rules.... Just pointing it out for the guys that dont know it can void their insurance policy and also so they know having non-adr approved lights on your car has the potential to cost you a LOT of money if the worst happens... ie, someone runs up the back of your rolla in their new M5 BMW/Porsche/Ferarri/other stupidly expensive car, etc etc and you have to pay out of your own pocket for the repairs to your car, their car, and whatever other expenses are incurred (think of the personal injury claim for whiplash etc etc) Lots of people still buy the lights and use them, but they are doing so at their own risk. http://www.ozeparts.com.au/shopping_perfor...artCategoryID=1 That's Ozeparts range of Altezza taillights, and you will notice out of the 91 different sets of lights they have listed, 6 are ADR approved, and the rest have the standard disclaimer:

guys, ensure the taillights are ADR approved if you are planning on putting them on your street car... If someone runs up the back of your car and you have non-adr approved lights installed, it's an easy way for the person that hit you to get out of paying the claim. This is an issue with all the lancer/mirage altezza lights out there now and if you read the fine print with most of the ad's they are in, you will see they are for "show use only" or similar which is the manufacturers disclaimer.

King Springs do roll their own ZZE springs, which are completely different to the AE series springs. I've got a contact at King Springs on the Gold Coast if you'd like to call them and confirm.

Have any of the guys with high rpm shift problems tried adjusting the clutch at all? If the clutch assembly isn't perfectly balanced, the clutch plate could warp slightly at high rpm, and if there isn't enough movement on the pressure plate to release the disc fully the clutch plate could be dragging on the rest of the assembly (flywheel and pressure place) introducing synchro-like shift problems. On the clutch pedal, the rod from the master cylinder has some adjustment in it, it could pay to adjust the rod another 3-5mm and see if that helps. ps, if you know someone with an oxy torch and a hydraulic press you can make your own "TRD shortshift" for free. You heat up the ball on the main shaft, and then push it up the shaft in the press about 20-30mm. Then you make a simple spacer plate if required for the shifter assembly depending on the clearance with the body of the car and the bottom of the shift lever. I've done about 7 quickshifts now and they work perfectly, and taking the laws of physics into account, you do not have as much leverage with a quickshift as you do with a normal shifter. I'll post diagrams and the sums if anyone has trouble with physics...

take note that the version of software running on the dyno can have a dramatic effect on the results, as can the gear the run is performed in. In Brisbane, one particular car was dyno'd on two different dyno dynamic's at two of the more reputable places up here. The car made 120kw on one dyno, and 145kw on the other... with no mods or tuning changes made in between the two runs, and both runs done in the 1:1 4th gear... You can't really compare dyno figures from different dyno's, they are meant to be tuning tools afterall. There are a LOT of factors that effect the final figure aswell, such as wheel size and weight, ambient temps, and even tyre pressure.

all the other factory bar's on the recent rolla's I've changed have been hollow. But when MAP81's factory front bar was measured with some vernier calipers at Motorama Toyota, it measured 24mm. That rear "swaybar" is clearly a ripoff, cheaper to remove your stock one and paint it blue/silver... it will do exactly the same thing and only cost you $12 in paint ;)

if you want the best alarm for you car's, get a Brant. At the end of the day, the alarms are only as good as the person installing them, and the common alarms like viper, black widow, mongoose etc are the one's that are best known by car thiefs who can simply jumper the loom after they rip the top off the control box to bypass the cut points. The wiring diagrams etc aren't available for the Brant systems, which really slow a theif down. Seeing how you cant start the new rolla's without the factory key, the only real function of the aftermarket alarm is the siren to try and scare a would-be their off. The ignition key is coded to the ECU in your car, if you get a plain spare key cut, it will open the door locks manually but can't start the car as the ECU wont let it start.

It has been mentioned in car magazines that the cheapest trick to getting a FF car to understeer less is by fitting a bigger rear sway bar. Why? Because weight transfer off the front wheels is dramatically reduced, which means more front-end grip. Also, because body roll is reduced, the outside front wheel has a greater contact patch and therefore more traction. Usually, the front sway bars are bigger than the rears hence tuners recommend to have the rear sway bar upgraded first. Then if you are planning to take the car to the track and would like the stiffest setup, then the front sway bar upgrade would come in. I have also requested to have the rubber bushes at the front changed to urethane bushes so that the front and rear bar would have the same response speed. Zee have a look under the rear of your car... there is NO "swaybar" of sorts on the new corolla... just the beam across the back that the wheels are attached to, and the bar that runs along the middle of it... Now, explain how replacing the bar in the middle of the torsional beam will reduce the roll in the rear? Rear swaybars do serve a function on car's with a decent rear suspension setup. Unfortunatly Toyota took a shortcut with the rear suspension on the new rolla's. I meant to take a photo of my brother's car this afternoon when we fixed the problem with his new TEIN springs, but forgot and only got a pic of the spring fix.

Has anyone here had a look at their stock rear swaybar? I did the springs on my brother's levin on the weekend, and after looking at the rear setup, I can't see how replacing the "swaybar" in the rear beam would make any difference at all...

take the car in every 10,000 for it's regular service to get the book stamped for resale value. I change my oil and filter ever 5K on all 3 of my rolla's, and on my other car which is still under warranty I send it in for it's regular service intervals, but dont like doing so since dealer service is a ripoff. My next "scheduled" service will cost $1K at the dealer, and I could get away with about $350 in parts if I DIY, but no stamp in the book...

only use the genuine toyota oil filters, the other's dont have the same anti-drainback valves in the filters which protect the motor, and for the sake of $6 it is not worth risking your motor. Toyota will void your motor warranty if you use repco filters on there, they will not if you use toyota filters.

correct, much better throttle response that way

yes, I do all the service work myself... that way I know it get's done properly. I dont trust any dealer service center after the stuffups I've had on my previous new car's while they were under warranty.. (at Toyota, Nissan and Subaru). Both car's get serviced every 5000K's with genuine toyota filters and penrite oil. Both car's already have very good CAI setups aswell into the factory airbox's, which work a LOT better than a pod mounted in the engine bay which is effectively a hot air intake. Both car's have moulded fibreglass scoops in the front bumper that feed the sealed bumper cavity with ram-fed cold air, which has a sealed pipe then running to the factory airbox. I tried the 20V with the intake pipe running from the airbox all the way to the front bumper where the intake scoop is, and it killed the throttle response along with the cold idle speed (dropped by 700rpm.). With the current setup both car's only get cold air from the front of the car, it can't come from anywhere else, and the resivour of cold air in the bumper cavity which has a short length to the factory box ensures a crisp throttle response. pics of the setup here: http://www.rollamods.com/holding/intakes1.jpg http://www.rollamods.com/holding/intakes2.jpg http://www.rollamods.com/holding/intakes3.jpg http://www.rollamods.com/holding/intakes4.jpg

^^^^^^^^^^^^ :D

I like torque in my car's... the Sportivo is quite boring in a "normal" rev range, the same way that the 4age 20V is very boring below 5500rpm. The thing with the highly strung NA motors is they need a LIGHT car to perform to their full potential, any extra weight is a real killer The GZE is great as it struggles for traction from 1800rpm at WOT, HEAPS of torque everywhere and a very easy car to drive fast. I enjoy driving my GZE more than my modified 2001 WRX as it's like having a V8 in a small car ;) The only downside is the rate at which it goes through tyres! My last set lasted just on 10,000K's before they delaminated. So can't all of us just get along now? We're all toyota enthusiasts right?

in Queensland a blue modification plate is required for both conversions along with a certificate detailing what mods have been performed that are not available as factory options, eg the engine, brakes and exhaust had to be "mod-plated" on both of these. The engineer will usually charge a fee based on the number of modifications you have. I've only got 3rd party fire&theft on both of these cars at about $400pa for the white one, and 300 for the green one. They are not worth enough to me to insure Full comp. If they get damaged AE92 parts are cheap enough for me to sort them out myself and I already have a stockpile of spares for them both... ;)

Here's my addition to the rolla section, both car's are far from stock and a ball to flog the crap out of, with a factory redline of over 8200rpm on the green one with a close ratio 5-speed factory LSD transaxle aswell... The white car is powered by an AE92 MAP sensored 4agze from a japanese Levin GTZ, with the dash, climate control and everything else also transplanted into the car. Suspension is front and rear swaybars, low king springs on KYB gas shocks.. Brakes are AE101 twin piston superstrut calipers on custom slotted 260x25mm discs at the front, with Levin GTZ rear discs. Levin GTZ fully adjustable seats are also featured in this car. The green one has a 1998 AE111 "Blacktop" 20V 4age, with factory fitted C56 close ratio 5-speed with LSD. The interior is all from a wrecked AE93 Seca SX with custom door pods etc etc etc. Suspension is cusco coilovers with camber plate tops, brakes are the same setup as the white one with whiteline adjustable swaybars front and rear and new poly bushes all round. edit: ALL work done by me on both car's with the exception of the welding of the exhaust systems as I dont have a TIG yet.

I've modded a couple of my current rolla's... which one you want to race? They're both pretty good on the track ;) Do the sportivo's have LSD? both my car's here have a "factory claimed" power output of over 120kw, and they're not heavy cars, even with the climate control AC and big brake upgrades.... Sportivo's are good, everyone just get along... some people would rather spend $30K elsewhere or not bother going into debt for a car...

Tein Flex will give you the range of adjustment you are after.

isn't this the corolla section of the forum? I would have thought people with corolla's other than sportivo's could post here too and not get told to sell the car and get a better one. eg http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/index.php?showtopic=146

dont bother getting a "better" car, with a few thousand spent on the old KE it will run rings around all the sportivo rolla's out there. $600 will get you all new suspension, $2K for a diy GZE swap that will have the light KE pulling easy 14 second quarters, and for $1500 more you can convert it to turbo on the GZE electronics and get very low 14 second quarters. a lot more bang for buck than the sportivo's with the $400+ CAI that has $20 worth of metal in it...