CHA54

The Simota CAI also has a MUCH better fit to the Aus corolla than the TRD item.

I would have preferred if MAP81 took up my original idea to get a CAI custom made which would fit better and flow more than the TRD item. Pity he's so lazy :P

a code snatcher is not going to help with a coded key and ecu combo. Do you understand how the coded key actually works? Just like the guys who steal new HSV's etc take a barrel and ECU set with them so they can drive the car away.

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flatbed? The car shouldn't start without a coded key. It only takes a minute to load one on a flatbed.

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I got marks to fit with only a small mod to the bracket by the battery, very easy install.

ROFL... 10 second FWD from a 3sgte... You will need a lot more than a 3sgte in a new corolla to crack a 10.

a 1ZZ long motor (without inlet manifold, coils, injectors, flywheel, sensors, etc etc) shouldn't set you back more than $1500, which is very little compared to the amount of labour you will be paying for. Also take into account the cost to you of having your car off the road for a couple of months. if you can't DIY, the labour is usually the most expensive part of a conversion like this, especially if it's done at a "performance" workshop.

inlet manifold. Is the stock aus-delivered inlet manifold plastic? if so it may not hold up well to a decent amount of boost. With those low compresison pistons you will want to run at least 15psi to make it fun. with over 150kw ATW you will need an LSD, so that's another $1500 or more depending on your mechanical skills. Then there's the mandatory 3" mandrel exhaust and all the other little bits that add up :P If it was me, I'd go to the local jap wreckers and purchase a spare 1ZZ long motor to do the buildup with. That way it will reduce the amount of time the car's off the road by a couple of months for a minimal outlay (in comparison to total cost of buildup)

the 1jz is definately an inline 6. no V anywhere to be seen in the J series range ;)

also, fill the new filter with oil before installation. You dont want to start your motor with a dry filter.

I like to refer to the GTI AE93 as the "Poverty Pack" SX corolla. It was downgraded from the original AE93 SX in terms of interior trim and alloy wheels to make it cheaper to try and increase sales. the GTI had the series II front bumper same as all other series II corolla's, rear hatch garnish same as other series II corolla's, and a colour coded rear wing. The GTI had a lower spec interior with masonite door trims instead of the nice moulded trims in the SX etc. The GTI came standard with steel rims with hubcaps instead of factory alloys which the SX had. The only saving grace for the GTI was that it had larger 258x22mm front brakes the same as the series II SX seca, that's the only mechanical change over the eariler SX hatch. The highest spec AE9x corolla you can get is the Series II SX seca, which had optional power windows in addition to the moulded trims and all other good bits. This exact topic has been covered to death at twincam.org. so many times in fact they have a FAQ thread covering the info now: http://www.twincam.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=1061

If you get decent coilovers, their range of adjustment is good enough to suit australian conditions. A set of Tein Flex will have a broad enough range of settings to be suitable. It's usually the entry level Tein, JIC etc which do not have adjustable bump and rebound that Australian drivers complain about because they are too stiff. I've had a set of cusco's in one of my corolla's, and a set of custom built fulcrum coilovers in my old rex wagon. The custom built items were no better in terms of ride comfort or performance than the cusco's in the other car, even though they were double the price of the cusco's. MAP81 has some cusco's arriving in early June for his Levin, I'm sure he'll put up a review when they arrive and I fit them.

dont bother with an AE86, they're overpriced for a 20+yo car. if you are inclined for one though, an AE71 is a good alternative option to the AE86 as you can use all the same suspension and drivetrain components. Also the AE71 body is stiffer, and a hell of a lot cheaper to buy one in good condition with minimal rust, the panels and lights are also dirt cheap for when you smash it. Personally I'd go for a grey import, S13's are extremely cheap these days and there's an abundance of performance parts available locally for them now.

Then why isn't it on the rainbow ??? :P Cause rainbows are gay?

I seriously doubt you would get 200kw from a NA 1.6L Z series motor. The 11,000rpm Formula atlantic motors only make around 180kw. Gaining an extra 20kw from an already highly-strung NA motor is a BIG ask. Here's one of the hasselgren 4a race motors (240hp): http://www.rollamods.com/tech/hasselgren1.jpg http://www.rollamods.com/tech/hasselgren2.jpg http://www.rollamods.com/tech/hasselgren3.jpg http://www.rollamods.com/tech/hasselgren4.jpg http://www.rollamods.com/tech/hasselgren5.jpg These guys had the option of using the 20V VVT heads years ago but stuck with the simple 16V non-vvt gear. I'll leave it to you to figure out why... One of the guys down south has already done a 1zzfe clubman, involved a fair amount of work to mount it in RWD config.

$1500???????? a good second hand set with ignition and injector looms should cost no more than $500. I've bought a few for $500-600, with the $600 unit coming with everything including the support tool comms cable for laptop tuning. You can usually buy an ECU and plugs from a jap wrecker for around $100 to make the adapter loom with.

it's quite easy to put the box in the car, it's just a bit more complex if you want to retain your warranty. You could always just purchase the pre-made loom from japan if you want to plug and play. If you dont care about your electrical warranty you can splice straight into your loom with an emanage exactly the same way the unichip, SAFC, and every other piggyback ECU do.

or you can purchase a second hand emanage with all the looms for less than $500, make/purchase an adapter loom, and get it tuned for under $1K. With this you end up with a lot more control than the unichip, more options, and the flexibility of not being stuck with "unichip authorised" dealers when you make changes to the car that require a retune. You also dont void your car's electrical/ECU warranty by splicing into the factory loom if you do it this way. The datalogging and map tracing is pretty cool, as is the ability to change maps with the click of a button from the laptop etc. http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...wtopic=1024&hl= and here's a screenshot of what you can adjust, I dont have any screenshots of the maptracing or datalogging, the next time MAP81 comes round I'll get some screenshots of those features. http://www.rollamods.com/tech/emanage/eman6.jpg

Mr Revhead works for toyota in NZ and would have dealt with more Toyota imports from Japan than you can poke a stick at.... Resetting the ECU will do SFA for this guys problem. It's a botched conversion so when it goes back to the maps it's on now it will perform exactly the same. Most of this guys issues would have been introduced by a qualified "Auto Electrician" who stuffed the wiring in the first place, leaving out the oxygen sensor with cut wires hanging loose in the bay etc. I remember laughing a lot at that "how to reset your ECU thread". Some of the most rediculous stuff I've ever read in that one, thought I was reading the hot4's forums. I questioned Northy about his sources for his procedures too, and corrected him offline.

Why not have a look in your engine bay? Fuel line runs from the filter to the rail, then you have the return line, and the purge line from the tank to the charcoal cannister...

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zeroforum?id=137 There's an australian section at VW Vortex where a few members have the new Golf V GTI's.

dodgey conversion

My AE111 20V shifter had an all-plastic base.