CHA54

....hook, line and sinker ;) hahahaha Well my BPM exhaust (I'm sure Trevor has a lot of choice things to say about both BPM and Gonzo) has been great for the last 3 years, still good as day 1, and Gonzo's a great guy from my dealings with him, as quite a lot of other guys in Brisbane will also vouch for. There's a ****load of "Gonzo" BPM exhausts being sold in the US constantly too, but I guess you already knew that. Some of the improved production guys might have something to say about the fanstastic quality of his work, which I rate it as top notch. You can check out the quality of my exhaust anytime, even though it's done 80,000km. At the end of the day you dont have to pay top dollar to get the same item, just like the TRD (exedy HD) clutch.

go to Gonzo's racing pipes, they'll copy it for half the price just like they did with CES's WRX system with twin dumps... $1600 for ful 3" mandrel bent stainless with HPC coated twin dump including cat and all fittings.

if the noise goes away when you depress the clutch it's most likely a noisy thowout bearing, which is quite common. Easy to fix with a new $30 bearing, it's the labour to remove and install the box which is a pain... Removing and installing FWD gearboxes is my most hated corolla task.

How long did it take to get from 200>240? It takes ages to get from 200>220 in a new WRX.

and it's plain as day that Captain Upsidedown is a massif dongsmoker!

What track were the times done at? What were your 60ft times like? got the terminal speed?

Sorry Rollamods Message edited out by peekay34 as was not releted to this post but insults at members are not going to be tolorated

that timing change is internal to the ECU, a friend who is a mechanic at one of the dealers in Brisbane has confirmed there is no way to manually set the timing.

As far as I'm aware there is no way to manually adjust the timing on a 2zz (or 1zz for that matter) so it can't be "out" so to speak as it is completely controlled by the ECU. Just hope toyota can replicate the issue when you take it in there, they usually say they cant replicate it and there's no problem :/

I'm just going from previous personal experience, and the experience of a couple of hundred others from various forums I'm a member of. Oiled filters and hotwire MAF's dont mix well, they'll be ok for a while, but wont last as long as they would if a paper or dry element was in place. It's very easy to remove the sensor and clean it, I think the electical component cleaner is about $7 from Jaycar.

this tiny little board should be a piece of p!ss to moderate, seems to be a few that cant take constructive criticism though...

well it's not a flap type, looks to be the same as a WRX. Jaycar electrical contact cleaner spay is good, that's what I use.

at what intervals do you clean your MAF element? And what to you clean it with? On any intake with an oiled airfilter there will be some amount of oil buildup on the sensor which needs to be cleaned off or you will get erroneous readings to your ECU. Oiled filters are ok with flap type MAF's and MAP sensors. Hot wire type MAF's are the ones that eventually give false readings/fail due to contamination from the oil.

FWIW, oiled airfilters are not the best thing to use long term with the hot wire MAF's. Does the filter that comes with the TRD CAI happen to be an oiled type instead of dry element?

the Denso ECU's are a lot harder for aftermarket tuners to crack, which is why you rarely see it done outside Japan. I wasn't aware of the 1Z or 2Z running a MAP sensor aswell, with the SS you can use LS1 Edit to reprogram the stock ECU but people dont have that luxury with toyota ECU's. On the Subaru's they now use ECUteK to reprogram the stock ECU's but they still cant change from MAF to MAP.

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...topic=360&st=25 There's a lot better mods you can do for your money. I'd suggest you speak to a real suspension shop (a real suspension shop does NOT include places like pedders, midas etc), preferably one that doesn't sell whiteline stuff and ask their opinion on what changing that tube will do. If you ask any retailer (whiteline, rev racegear, etc etc) they will always be chasing the sale "yeah mate, that will make your car handle better for sure!". Ask yourself this question... "how do retailers make a living?" The hard part is finding an honest suspension specialist, but you can usually find one by speaking to people at your local track days etc, ask the guys with modded cars putting down the best times.

They've got the same bolt holes in the chassis. I've still got an AE111 frontcut around the side of my house.

the MAF in the sportivo is a similar design to the Subaru MAF in the WRX's which also plays up some time after installing a CAI, I'm trying to source some technical details about the reason the MAF cage (white plastic thing with the grill on the front) was included in the intake. In the Subaru's the MAF can cost $800 to replace, or $140 if you just purchase the individual sensor itself. Subaru stopped covering the MAF under warranty on car's that had pods/CAI's/Intake mods performed. You can sometimes remove the MAF and spray it with some electrical contact cleaner as a temporary fix. Ask Toyota to try a new MAF sensor and you will most likely find that the problem will go away for 10-20,000K's

did that car happen to have a CAI installed with no guard for the MAF?

The new corolla's have a baffled fuel tank just like any other modern EFI car, this is to prevent fuel surge when running 1/4 of a tank or less. I haven't pulled a tank out of a new corolla yet to inspect the internal baffle to see how good it is, but running a bosch pump inline in your current system will do nothing but burn out the bosch pump if you're having pickup problems with your intank pump. The intank pump can be used as an adequate lift pump to a surge tank that can feed a bosch pump which feeds your fuel rail. Even a low spec bosch 070 will feed more than enough fuel for a 2zzge, there is no need for twin pumps. You are not running a 400kw ATW motor, you have a little NA motor. But all this is pretty useless if the fuel pickup isn't the reason for the rev cut. I was doing some data logging the other night on a car a member of this forum owns, and noticed some funny behaviour from the factory MAF sensor, it would occasionally spike when under load, which could be a candidate for hesitation, rev cut etc in certain conditions. If you have access to a snap-on scan tool or similar you can check your ECU to see why it held back and then you will know the root cause for your problems.

I think you will find that your ECU does not monitor the oil temperature. So the cut would not be caused by oil temp. What level was your fuel?

buy a T piece and T it off the factory oil pressure sensor location. Try to get a steel T as the alloy and brass items have a tendency to shear off in the block with the weight of a pressure sender on the end.

no, you cut the trigger line on the buzzer from the reverse light switch only, if you are really anal about it you could install a hidden switch behind a trim panel that can be used to enable/disable the reverse buzzer at will. Very similar to the 100km/h warning chime found on Toyota imports.

...easy, find the beeper, cut the switch side of it's wire.

Do your reverse lights still work? Because the reverse light switch is on top of the gearbox under the airbox.