CHA54

Dave's harness with new temp sender etc will fix your problem with the guage and AC. The idle will come down to needing a proper tune. Another option for an aftermarket ECU which supports a working temp guage is a custom adaptronic install from the QLD Dealer. He's built a circuit so the factory temp guage can be driven from one of the ECU's outputs without needing to install an extra temp sender in the system. That also allows you to get rid of the MAF and run a MAP sensor instead.

The best one I've heard was a custom alloy intake with 6" podram. Was shorter than the TRD/CES CAI's too so had better throttle response, that required a battery relocation though. For $500 I'd want something more than a coated mild steel intake personally. pics of the alloy intake referenced:

did anyone try and clear the codes from the ABS ECU before replacing the original sensors? They're fairly difficult to break, but the ECU will log a code which requires the scan tool to clear if they car is started with a sensor disconnected.

revert the car back to stock and you shouldn't get the CEL.

you can't reflash or "tune" the stock ECU.

Adap hasn't been done on the 2gr yet. It took link/vipec a long time to get the 2gr vvti control sorted, was done through Thor Racing in the UK. The adaptronic E1280S does have a drive-by-wire board add-on, but it's all a waste of time if you can't control all 4 cams properly.

who are you seeing about an ECU? Need to make sure it can control the DBW and VVTi properly, there's not many around that can do that.

lmfao! Did you do any type of search here before posting??

What shipping company is the package being sent with? You usually engage a freight forwarder for large items and they arrange the customs clearance, dock fee's etc etc.

made some pipes

No.

you can if you want most of the other stuff in the car to stop functioning. I dont believe Haltech has mapped out the 2gr vvt triggers and developed a control algorithm for it yet either. Took them a long time to get the basic vvti 2J sorted on Grant's soarer.

A Vipec V88 supports the trigger/vvt/dbw setup of the 2grfe. about $2400ish for the ECU and then you either need to make a plug-in adapter for it or a custom loom or piggyback it on the stock ecu. Piggyback installation is the only real option to have everything else in the aurion still work. The stock ECU remains in place to handle the CAN comms etc and the vipec controls the fueling, ignition, throttle and VVTi. Somewhere like Bayside Performance Services in QLD are pretty good with tuning N/A VVTi engines. I'm waiting for a cheap 2gr to pop up so I can put it in something else with a manual box and vipec.

with a datalogit box and a wideband o2 controller with 0-5V output, you can wire the controller output to one of the datalogit analogue inputs which then allows you to log the AFR along with everything else. It's one of the downfalls of the powerfc that you can't interface the wideband directly to the ECU for logging, and that the PFC doesn't have any onboard logging capability. Need a laptop or similar in the car with FC-Edit or Copilot etc running to log in realtime.

what AFR is it running at 100%? Could be running way too rich... If you genuinely need bigger injectors, you could use some 525cc injectors from a ST215 3sgte, the beams 3sge injectors aren't much different from 2zz.

Go and see NPC in archerfield.

The stock zz coils have been proven to support ~100hp per cylinder. I always go for genuine Denso coils over the aftermarket stuff out there, but if you feel the need to waste cash on these coils I'll grab your stock ones if they're going cheap ;)

I think you'll find a correctly sized turbo setup has the same boost response as a supercharger ;) I believe Pippy would like his to be less responsive :P

Here's a run from a ZZE122R with TRD Charger, 2zz injectors, Custom SRI with 5" K&N Filter, Custom 4>2>1 headers and 2.5" exhaust, Water/Meth Injection, Bored throttle body, PFC with 7K revlimit, C160 LSD 6-speed etc. Ran around 8psi for this figure from memory. Here's the same car with custom turbo setup, ST215 3sgte 525cc injectors, MY08 WRX TD04L turbo, BA XR6 Intercooler, 2" cooler pipes, custom steam pipe manifold, Custom plenum, 2.5" exhaust, bored throttle body and Vipec V44 ECU. Lower figure on a bit over 7psi, higher figure on around 9.5psi

I'd expect there to be quite a few hours of labour to remove/reinstall the head if the engines in the car.

Good to hear it's sorted Paul gave me a quick call about it on Wednesday. If it's anything like Pippy's old setup, it will make linear power with an increased revlimit. He had a 7K revlimit on that one and the power was climbing right to the cut, if the limit was moved higher it would make more power. Unfortunately this isn't possible with an emanage blue.

A turbo 1zz will crap all over a supercharged 1zz pound for pound any day of the week. I helped supercharge pippy's 1zz corolla, then later helped build the turbo setup for it when he sold the charger. The turbo setup made a heap more power at the same boost on the same stock long engine, it also did it a lot easier with less knock. Your headers wont make much difference with a supercharger and I wouldn't make the final decision based around already owning a set of average headers. AWD is a waste of time on a ZZE unless you're running a setup with enough power to overcome the massive drivetrain loss and extra weight (think built 3S)

How many times? :P I'm guessing this will be a track-only engine? If you're going to see 10K all the time, I'd be sourcing the lightest internals possible. I noticed MWR sell Ti 2zz rods... I'd also run an external oil pump/dry sump to ensure you always have the required oil pressure. This is probably overkill, but for the amount of money that's required to be spent for a reliable 10K engine it's cheap insurance. If you're serious then it would pay to give someone like Neil Trama a call and even get him to build the engine.

The TRD shifter is a "Short Throw" shifter, not s sik-bro "Short" shifter. The length of the lever below the pivot point is longer to shorten the shifter throw.