CHA54

what sort of service history has your car had? If it's gone for extended periods without oil and filter changes then it's likely to have gummed up oil passages etc. If it does then if the solenoid is cleaned it will just get clogged back up over time. Easiest way to check the real service history of an engine is to pull the cam cover off and inspect the top end. If it looks like clean silver alloy everywhere then it's had regular oil changes, if it'd dark or black with build-up everywhere then it's not had many oil changes. I've checked a few 100,000km+ engines with known-good service history and they've looked brand new under the covers. I've also seen a lot that are completly gummed up from lack of service.

You can't really beat the genuine toyota coolants. Every engine I've pulled down that has only ever run the red or pink coolant has been spotless in the water galleries. Toyota Red coolant is "Long Life", Toyota Pink Coolant is "Super Long Life". If your car's overheating a lot, I'd be taking the radiator to a radiator shop to have a tank removed and the core unblocked. With that done, replace the thermostat with a genuine part and fill the system with either toyota red or pink coolant.

Just contact whiteline, if it snapped at the weld then it's defective.

At the time 2zz's weren't a common motor 2nd hand, the car was sent to toyota for a warranty claim. You will find some remnants of the experience if you do some searching. There's even threads on here warning users about posting their mod lists etc, a quick search reveals those also. The guy that denied Northies claim was from TMCA and his job is investigating/authorising major warranty claims.

Ask Northy what happened when he tried to claim his engine. 10K was a long engine from toyota + parts and labour to fit it, actually thinking back it was around the 12K mark.

I wouldn't risk it on an engine I couldn't afford to replace at the drop of a hat. If a replacement engine is cheap and you can do all the labour yourself then go for it. I'm not sure what a 2ZR long engine costs, but Northy had a bill close enough to 10K for his 2zz replacement from toyota. Edit: If your engine does happen to let go, keep in mind that toyota monitor these forums for items relating to major warranty claims... So your claim will be knocked back when they present you with a copy of a thread with all your warranty-voiding mods in it.

Take a look at the factory pulley for the thin rubber section bonding the inner and outer sections of the dampener. This is what saves your bearings/oil pump etc which the cheap aftermarket pullies do not.

That's nothing to do with your alarm. It needs the security pin for your headunit itself, should be in the headunit owners manual. Follow the instructions in the manual. It's designed to thwart would-be stereo theives.

The TRD supercharger is relatively easy to install but doesn't offer a massive power gain. The hard part is finding one in good condition with a decent idler bearing and bracket these days. The TRD charger also doesn't use a clutched pulley so it's effectively on all the time. The blitz charger uses a clutched pulley and costs a hell of a lot more than the TRD chargers.

those LHD kits do not fit RHD cars in australia.

I guess a $1200 turbo setup would be a good way to make an unreliable timebomb :P

If you're not mechanically minded it will cost you between 12-25K to turbo your corolla so it makes decent power. For it to be reliable you'll be looking closer to the 20K end of the scale. You can look at Bill's car for the top end of the scale, or Pippy's car for the budget end of the scale. Pippy's car was initially tuned for 9psi with a WRX MY08 TD04L and it made 140kw atw, I've now setup gear-based boost control on it and it runs 14psi in higher gears but I haven't had it redyno'd to see what power it's making now. The car was previously running a TRD supercharger with water/meth injection making 117kw atw on 10psi. It's now done 30,000km on the turbo setup, and 20,000 before that was with the charger, over 100,000km on the stock 1zzfe long motor. It hasn't had any issues with the engine etc in that time. Rough costs & Specs are basically: -Custom steam-pipe merge-collector turbo manifold with ceramic coating $800 -Secondhand very low km MY08 TD04L WRX turbo $300 -Custom 2.5" exhaust from turbo back with metalcat, magnaflow barrel center muffler and large stainless oval rear muffler $1200 -xr6 turbo garrett intercooler $150 -Alloy intake & intercooler pipework, silicone joiners with T-bolt clamps, Bosch plumb-back BOV and 6" base K&N Filter $1000 -Exedy extra HD Clutch supply and fit $800 -ST215 525cc injectors and plugs $200 secondhand or $560 new -Vipec V44 ECU with 3bar map sensor and plug'n'play harness $2000 not including dyno time -Oil Feed line/fittings, turbo water lines and oil drain line/fittings $300 -Sump modification for oil drain $200 -Custom inlet plenum $800 (not really required) -Walbro in-tank fuel pump + fitting $200 -Engine oil cooler $600 That's close enough to $9K and lists most of the major stuff. In reality I'd expect a workshop to charge $12-15K for a comparible setup. We also put in a LSD 6-speed and it's matching driveshafts when the TRD charger was initially installed. http://www.purcellperformance.com/dyno/1zzfte_dyno.jpg http://www.purcellperformance.com/1zz/ZZE122_Bay.jpg http://www.purcellperformance.com/1zz/ZZE122_FMIC.jpg http://www.purcellperformance.com/1zz/ZZE122_Manifolds.JPG http://www.purcellperformance.com/1zz/ZZE122_Turbo.JPG http://www.purcellperformance.com/1zz/ZZE122_Pipes.jpg http://www.purcellperformance.com/1zz/ZZE122_Turbo2.jpg http://www.purcellperformance.com/1zz/ZZE122_V44.jpg

If you're going to run E85, I'd strongly recommend an ethanol content sensor to be plumbed into the fuel system and then wire it's output to an aftermarket ECU that can modify the maps to suit the actual ethanol content of the fuel. A very expensive and time consuming process to first get setup with the sensor, pump, injectors and aftermarket ECU and then spend all the dyno time doing the 4 or 5D mapping of fuel and ignition on different blends to get it perfect.

put the stock ECU back in, then check if it does the same thing.

-superstrut balljoints flogging out, need to buy complete new arms from toyota -engines with poor service history will develop a noisy VVT intake pulley -hydraulic timing belt tensioner can fail prematurely -worn synchro's Those are the main things that can cost you money, I'd expect a 10+ year old car to have some squeaks and rattles.

split diaphram in the gate? What was the boost cut set to in the adaptronic?

it would bend like a twig.

Crossley's should be able to do it, Extreme Custom Engineering in Coopers plains are brilliant with TIG welding, very experienced with cast alloy etc.

If it's metal it will be alloy. Cracks in cast alloy can be repaired, as can cracks in cast iron.

fix the intake manifold. If it's alloy it can be fixed.

This. Good on ya for going ahead and planning to get one, but just don't make posts about saying how good it is until you have the dyno charts to show it. Someone here in the forum have done an dyno chart on the sportivos back to 2004, that's why it gives me confidence http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1505 Someone even comments "Was your baseline minus the CAI? or pre recal? as the 17kW jump is a large jump even for a unichip on this car. As I have only seen gains of ~8 kW on other Sportivos" With the sportivo in that thread you keep referring to, I'm quite confident it would have picked up the majority of that increase with an ECU reset after the ignition and fuel trims were reset to their learning state...

Please buy one, make sure you do a before and after dyno and show everyone your results. I'll be impressed if it makes 10hp extra.

Have you spoken to the guys at ESP Racing?

when the master was replaced last time, was it replaced with a reco unit or a new genuine unit?

on a NA 1zz the biggest gain I've seen from a piggyback is about 6kw on a dyno dynamics. That would be comparible to a ZR engine. The gains are attained through ignition timing, messing with the AFR's is only really any good for ~1kw. A unichip is a waste of cash an a N/A engine IMO. Also wouldn't suprise me if the US ZRE wiring pinout differs to the ADM version.