CHA54

yes, it fits

buy one of the ebay kits with a cast manifold for about $1500 landed, then buy a set of injectors for ~$600, fuel pump for $200-300, appropriate ECU for $1800-3500, labour to fit including any extra fabrication/parts required $1000-4000, $500-1500 for the tune and away you go. Tons of space to fit a turbo with the 2az.

that's not a "Bosch" pulley, it's just your usual cheap crap non-dampened alloy crank pulley packaged with a bosch belt.

from what I've been told it's getting a version of subaru's replacement for the EJ engine, direct injection, quad avcs etc etc.

Alternator's sitting on the bench, just haven't bolted it up yet. I've got a whole second intake etc that's going on after soda-blasting.

bit more done over the weekend, the car's on it's wheels again now and engine is back in for the final time. I've started sorting out some of the little stuff... The main thing I worked on this afternoon was the shift setup. With the ZZE gearbox bracket/linkages, AE82 cables and AE82 shifter, it was impossible to select 1st/2nd/reverse etc. Compared the shift cable bracket between the C52 and ZZ C60 and found some significant differences. I chopped up the two and tacked together a hybrid bracket which can now select all 6 gears and reverse with the stock AE82 shifter unmodified. I'll probably mod the bracket some more so the up/down selector cable sits flatter and further away from the turbo manifold runners. Also turned up another insert for the top gearbox mount this morning, all sits very nicely now. Next on the list is the driveshafts, using ae92 passenger shaft with 1zz inner CV, 2zz half-shaft with AE111 outer and CV. For the moment I've got two outer CV stubs bolted into the hubs so it doesn't wreck the new bearings rolling around with no shafts in. pics... Original ZZE bracket with AE82 cables, you can see the rearmost cable is at it's limit in neutral: Comparison of ZZE and AE shift cable brackets: Hybrid Bracket tacked together: Overview of the back of the bay: Mounts: Overall shot of bay showing room between engine and firewall for turbo: Front of engine, can see the clearance to the AE112 master etc:

you can test the o2 sensor by measuring the voltage from one of the pins in the diags terminal in the engine bay, if you google it you'll find guides online on how to test it. The splash guards make the radiator more efficient.

the fuel filter is bolted to the firewall on the passenger side of the engine bay. It wont be the cause of the car running rich. Check/replace the o2 sensor first. If you do attempt to replace the fuel filter, ensure you use a good flare spanner on the lower tube nut so you dont round it off. It's easiest to get at from underneath the car/through the passenger wheel arch. The cooling system works more efficiently when the splash guards are installed, you can get new ones from toyota or grab some secondhand from any ae92 at the wreckers. Engine/Trans/Body style does not matter.

the quality of the stainless used in Aus isn't really that important. It's not like you're driving on salted roads seasonally.

2.5" 304 grade polished 1.6mm wall tubing is $20/m. Matching 304grade 90deg mandrel bends are $22ea. Stainless Magnaflow rear muffler is around $250, 6" round magnaflow center muffler is $150-180, 2.5" 3-bolt stainless flange kits are $60-80. Should take about 3-4 hours for an experienced workshop to knock up a cat-back exhaust, all TIG welded, at about $60-100 an hour depending on the workshop. You do the maths. The quality of the stainless used has very little impact on the overall cost of the system.

Was about $700 delivered with fitting kit from Kinugawa

turbo arrived... TD05-18G with T25 rear, 0.5bar actuator and 3" inlet cover.

exhaust sealant is a waste of time.

1st one looks like it's poorly TIG'd, second one is either an average mig weld or poor tig weld.

to do the conversion properly you need to buy a frontcut. it's getting hard to find map-sensored AE92 4agze frontcuts these days, as they're all 21 years old. If you start with an AE101 GTZ frontcut, then you will have to buy an AE92 GTZ rear engine mount from toyota (~$110) and source a mechanical speedo drive from an AE95 AWD corolla's gearbox. The bonus with the AE101 GZE is it comes wth an LSD gearbox and twin piston brakes. Replace the following parts on the frontcut engine: -front, rear and cam oil seals -waterpup -timing belt -accessory belts -radiator hoses (get hoses for an AE93 SX/GTI corolla) -clutch (MAP sensored 4agze's run the 230mm clutch setup, not the 225mm setup found on the earlier AFM GZE's) I'd also do the valve stem seals as they'd be leaking on the GZE for sure, it's quite labour intensive to replace them though. Get the frontcut radiator serviced at a radiator place ($80) or buy a new aftermarket radiator to suit an AE93 with 4age engine. This gives the top outlet with the correct position. So the CS Limited is EFI? I thought they were carby... If it's EFI then that makes life a little easier as you dont need to source an EFI tank/lines and make a new circuit opening relay circuit in the cabin for the fuel system. The wiring is the hardest part of the conversion, if you're not good with reading/understanding toyota electrical diagrams and systems then spend the $400-600 to get a specialist to sort the loom. An experienced person should be able to make an engine loom for the car that will plug and play, no cutting/soldering in the cabin or at the fuse box required on the main engine loom, and a simple change of the dash ECU plug in the cabin which can mostly be repinned from the 4afe's ECU dash plug. Budget up to $2500 for the frontcut, $1500 for parts, extra for tools/crane hire,wiring etc, and between $150-700 for engineering depending on where you live. Common saying is to take your budget and double it when dealing with conversions. After you've added all that up, visit carsales.com.au , twincam.org.au or similar and see what it would cost to buy one already done.

That's MIG'd for sure. And you can MIG stainless to mild steel, get someone other than the apprentice to chop that off and TIG on a new flange and section of tube.

You'll find that the car will continue to make power the higher you rev it, but with the emanage you can't circumvent the stock rev limiter. I only take the 1zz's to 7K, there's too much stress put on the rod bolts going any higher.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqread.asp

last weekend I stripped out the interior ready to swap in the twinky looms etc, I would have got it back together but the foam on the blower fan and heater ducting was perished so that needs replacing before re-assembly. A mate also dropped around some work rims to test fit. Unfortunately they JUST hit a section of the outer edge of the superslut caliper, I'll probably clearance the edge of the caliper with a flap disc to give it 1-2mm of clearance and see how that goes. 15x7 +35's I think... Interior: Brakes/Rims:

rear main, flywheel and clutch are sorted... Replaced the rear main by slicing out the inner section of the seal and then pulling the outer section out with some needle nose pliers: Then chased the threads for the flywheel bolts and installed a new rear main: Flywheel installed with ARP 4age bolts: Clutch cover and disc... I'm not a fan of the damper design in the disc so am ordering a couple of different centers from http://www.clutchnet.com/home.php Done:

The diverter valve is one of the most common faults on corolla's of that era, you usually have to buy a new one as it's impossible to find a good condition second hand valve. I know a couple of people who have replaced the valve in the bottle with a JDM Levin washer motor that has the diverter built-in. That required modding the loom to suit the new motor.

replace the rear washer diverter valve, usually mounted to the drivers side strut tower area.

good results, that figure's about right on crossley's dyno with the TRD charger and emanage combo. Did Paul say the injectors were nearing their limit?

there's heaps of 2.2L CSI Manual's on carsales at the moment.

ahh yes! does it mean there is another plug for the obdii? or does it still read it off under the drivers steering wheel? Easiest way is to just read it from the hand controller, or log with a datalogit