CHA54

dump, wastegate and front section of exhaust were sorted today. Welded up the dump: Took to the manifold with a holesaw: Sorted out the gate pipe: Blended the return to the dump: Will finish welding the gate return tomorrow now I've confirmed it's possible to install the lot as-is

go to Apexi's japanese website and download the installation manual for a SAFC or simlar electronic device. It will have the pinouts in the manual. Same with the greddy emanage ultimate manual.

years ago people used zipties and bolts to try and firm up the rubber hangers to stop their CES exhausts rattling, even those fitted by CES. I believe that might have been to address the center muffler hitting the heatshields though. Another friend of mine had something in the rear muffler come loose and cause an annoying rattle with his CES system

pressed in. You press the hub out of the bearing, then press the bearing race out of the carrier after removing the circlip. Clean up the carrier, press in the new race, install the bearings to the race and then press the assembly onto the original hub if it's in decent condition.

bit more done, got the turbo oil drain sorted, finished the filter to rail fuel line and made a proper start on the dump pipe. hardline to -10 oil drain from turbo: dump pipe started: Oil drain in place and the start of the dump, I put some toyota FIPG on the sump to tube weld instead of painting the whole thing: New fuel filter location and lines: Checking to see what a ZZT Celica steering wheel looks like :P

got the high pressure line done, -6AN fittings tigged to the to hardline ends, then 200 series speedflow in between. I used some factory ZZE corolla heat sleeve from the original 2zz powersteer line to shield it.

finally got the 82 back in the shed for work to recommence... Redid the fuel filter setup yesterday, then spent the rest of the day searching for a bunch of black -6 push lock fittings with no success. Also made some brackets for the front guards to push them out another 15mm from the metal flaring. This is with 16x7 +35 rims running 205/50's. I'm thinking I'll purchase some +20 15x7's and run 195/50's all round. This is the inside of the guards, the liner tabs were cut off and the lip bashed up so the metal is double layer. Also got started on the powersteering setup, fitted the ZZE123 resivour to a custom bracket, shortened the ZZE feed line to the pump slightly and modified the ZZE hardline coming out of the pump with a -6 AN fitting. I still have to do the same to the hardline coming out of the rack, but I'll look to braze the fitting to that line as the steel tube from the '82 line is thinner wall. Once both are done I'll get some -6 200 series teflon lines and fittings from MSCN to finish the pressure side of the plumbing... pretty simple only requiring 1x 45deg fitting and one straight fitting. The return side will be run through a small cooler at the front of the car then back to the resivour.

That's the same Ray Hall. He still sells/installs/tunes them but has now "Semi Retired" with the Vipec Operations/Support being completely run by Link in NZ. If you're in Cairns then I'd definately recommend going to see him, he's a straight shooter and calls a spade a spade.

The QLD Vipec Distributor, Godzilla Motorsport

I'm quite familiar with the rotrex chargers, still wont be anywhere near as good as a nicely matched turbo. But I'm all for seeing another 1zz rotrex setup completed. Vipec V44 is about $1600-$1700 retail from memory with 4bar map sensor, 2m loom and motorsport grade intake air temp sensor.

TRD supercharger and a standard secondhand WRX TD04L turbo. Charger at 11psi, turbo at 9psi. did 20,000km on the charger setup and now around 30,000km on the turbo. The turbo setup is better in every aspect, lower heat, lower EGT's, more fuel economy, more power, more torque, gear based boost control for traction in lower gears, hardest thing is keeping it off boost :P Original charger thread: http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php/topic/15425-pippys-2002-levin-supercharged/ Turbo thread: http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php/topic/18153-ok-noobs-lets-get-serious/

I still think it would fit in that space with the mods I've suggested. The turbo setup I did made an additional 30kw at the wheels over the supercharged setup, it did it with with less boost and more response... All on the same car wtih the same ECU etc etc

get a new custom overflow tank made to sit out of the way, get new AC lines made and mount the charger between the AC compressor and alternator. I wouldn't mount the charger somewhere that would require bonnet mods. Or just go turbo ;) I've done both supercharged and turbocharged setups on the ZZE's and the turbo version is much better bang for buck.

isn't there brake info in the FAQ? Wouldn't suprise me if the EBC catalogue had the incorrect pads for the south-african sportivo's.

couple of small updates from the weekend. Got the heater lines done, a bit of stuffing around as the original 2zz heater ports are 19mm diameter, the ae82 heater core is 17mm dia. Took the opportunity to get setup for the turbo waterlines also, for the hardline that comes from the thermostat housng, I welded a 17mm bend into the hardline to point under the turbo intake pipe, I then welded a -6AN fitting to the pipe for the cold-side of the turbo coolant feed. For the other line, I machined up a 17<19mm adapter and welded another -6AN fitting to that for the turbo coolant outlet. On the actual turbo, I removed one of the lower welsh-plugs in the core and tapped the remaining hole to 16x1.5mm thread. Then modified the waterline banjo tube that was supplied with the turbo to accept a 16mm banjo bolt at one end, welded a -6AN fitting to the other end. The turbo was supplied with both upper water jacket holes tapped, both the lower holes were plugged... That isn't great for allowing the turbo to be cooled correctly once the engines switched off. Now it has one lower hole for the coolant inlet, and one of the upper holes for the outlet. Added a tab to the top of the cooler core for the bonnet latch: Got a HKS thermostatic oil cooler sandwich plate instead of the Mocal one I'd purchased previously. The Mocal one was too big to fit in the space available for the 2zz filter:

Take it to toyota, they have the Technical Service Bulletin at hand on how to remove/replace the broken bolt if the shaft has rotated.

had a look at the bracket on pippy's engine, it's totally different to the 2zz setup. It bolts to a couple of M6 holes in the side of the throttle body, my 2zz throttles dont have a boss on that side of the throttle.

Success, got a set of Sutton easy-outs... Then got the broken part of the lift bolt out of the rocker shaft with ease :)

in the sales brochure pics that were posted the other month they had pictures showing how to arrange the four wheels, tool kit and helmet in the back of the car ;)

Hi Guys, I'm looking for a 2zz throttle cable bracket, the one that bolts to the throttle body and the throttle cable secures to. I'd also be interested in borrowing one to copy if no-one has a spare to sell. Thanks Jason

Started today wanting to get the topend of the engine all assembled so I could get on with finishing the turbo oil/water plumbing, didn't quite go to plan :P Got the injectors all bolted in, replaced all the seals and gaskets on the cam cover, then went to replace the lift bolts and unfortunately the intake lift-bolt was snapped... This is a known issue on the 2zz's so I'd proactively purchased new bolts to replace them and was hoping they'd still be intact. Wasn't that lucky, so I had to try and get the snapped section out. Drilled a 3.5mm hole in a random M6 bolt to use as a guide, got the snapped section drilled nicely, then found the cheap easy-outs I have are crap. So will try and get my hands on a snap-on set this week and then I should be able to get it assembled for the last time. If everything doesn't go to plan and I have to remove the cam, I'll be putting some bigger cams in it. Good news is the ZZE123 throttle cable is able to be retrofitted to the AE82 bracket/pedal, and I was able to fit an AE112 heater tap which fits better in the bay with the turbo intake etc. "Lift Bolts", Left - New, Middle - Old/Worn, Right - Snapped.... M6 bolt modded to be a drill guide: Lift bolt hole in the top of the head, trying to not get metal shavings everywhere:

bolted the plenum up for the last time today, then went to put in the bosch injectors from Monkeywrench Racing, but decided I needed to make some mods to their mounting solution first... due to the injector location/angle with regard to the head, you can't fit the bosch injectors using a traditional 11mm top adapter. MWR supplied them with an adapter on the outlet of the injector and a denso-style seat pushed onto that. It didn't really fit all that well and it also made the injector too long overall. So I machined down the injector adapter necks to 7.5mm diameter, then machined up a 9.7mm dia neck sleeve with a base 2.5mm high, those were stuck onto the machined injector adapters with Toyota FIPG. The injectors will fit nicely now, will bolt them up tomorrow after the FIPG cures.

...you need to get the sand out of your vagina. Mick (Eviltwin) gave the guy props for having a go, implied that others should too by getting on the tools, gets called a moron, then a twit and a tool... Awesome forum. Maybe people should stick to doing rims and HID's :P ps, I know plenty of mechanics that would have no hope in hell of completing a successful engine conversion by themselves.

throw a 2az in it

front bar will pull out without much fuss. I'll be making a brace that bolts to the inner guard so everthing's held out nicely.