CHA54

The ae82 now has metal flares... my mate Josh brought around his new 2J plenum for me to mod, so I told him he could flare the guards on the rolla while he waited :P thew on the 16x7 +35 enkei's which currently have 205/50's on them and after the flaring they fit with tons of clearance. They were hanging out the guards before the flaring. "Flaremaster" Josh chopping the guard-liner mounting tabs off Getting busy with the hammer and dolly Tons of space now, just needs going over with the flap disc and a skim of bog Rear starting to get the same treatment: Done Tons of space

guy on toymods said he'd placed a pre order with Sydney City Toyota for $38K + ORC's yesterday.

Pippy dropped over today with the secondhand coilovers he sourced from TW, he spent the afternoon cleaning them up and sorting out what I had to mod to make them fit. I believe they were from an AE101 or AE112. They're now mounted with standard twincam strut tops and modded lower rear hub section. I also removed the plenum to weld up one of the old ports and stuck the modded sump back on with toyota FIPG. Fairly productive day, car's now sitting on the coilovers but will need some more lowering. 17x7 +40's with 205/40 tyres alo JUST clear the lower spring seat at the rear. The actual rims I'll be running are 16x7 +35. $250 delivered coilovers :) Bare intake side of head: Welding up the plenum:

if you dont have the right tools you're basically guarateed to round-off the tube nut in the bottom of the fuel filter.

I like how they put tape over the subaru stamp on the guards in the bay :P Also looks like Greddy has already got their front/rear brake upgrade and exhaust sorted: http://wot.motortrend.com/files/2011/11/MG_0498.jpg http://wot.motortrend.com/files/2011/11/MG_0491.jpg

I doubt they'll sell many at $40K, not cheap enough compared to the AWD turbo subaru platforms, wouldn't suprise me given toyota's history with AUS pricing v's the rest of the world. Even Subaru has commented that they're unsure if they'll bring the BZR to Aus as it isn't worthwhile competing with the same car from toyota in the low 30's.

change your fuel filter before using any fuel system cleaners. They're good at dislodging crap from your filter and sending it to your injectors. If the o2 sensor has never been replaced before then that's most likely the cause of your poor economy.

I'll be getting one for my next work car when they're released. 147kw in such a light car will be fine, the base spec GT is ~440kg lighter than an aurion, ~160kg lighter than a ZRE ascent. 12.5:1 compression, 86x86 bore/stroke and a revlimit over 7K is all good. Looks like a lot of fun to drive to me: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Jr-iYAtpWM&feature=share All the major tuning houses will have forced induction kits etc available at release or shortly afterwoods, the factory Modellista kit looks decent too. I'm just hoping Toyota/Subaru dont go with US-spec fat-***** seats with no bolsters like the current WRX's/Evo's. Heard mention of an "open" ecu for tuning, I personally have my doubts about that though unless the ECU is subaru based. If it's the typical Denso/Toyota ECU then it will be harder for the aftermarket shops to sort their turbo/supercharger kits seeing how the engine uses 8 injectors (port injection and direct injection).

I'd try and get an OEM clutch disc and an uprated pressure plate. The exedy discs are prone to cracking the damper retainers which then lets the spring dislodge and jam the pressure plate. The OEM ASIN clutch plates have a much better damper spring design. Alternatively the Competition Clutch plates have a decent damper spring retainer: http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=42_45_108&products_id=1235

BOV and it's return are now complete, also sorted out the final design for the top radiator hose

I believe it was done in thailand by a shop, engetsu_takara@hotmail.com

haha, I never even looked at MWR for the gear kits. If I break my 6-speed I'll make an AE101 GTZ E58 fit instead. I doubt my car will make enough power to strip 3rd though

http://www.sector111.com/products/performance/sport_shifters/jubu-racing-3rd-and-4th-gears.cfm

$2-3K for an exhaust?? sounds like you need to find a new exhaust shop :P To get the required parts fabricated by a shop up here it would be roughly: $900 - Custom Steam-pipe manifold $1200 - Full 3" mandrel bent Exhaust from turbo back $800 - Kando Dynamic TDO6 with internal gate $50 - Bosch BOV $150 - Ebay spec cooler $700 - 2.5" alloy pipework, silicone joins, cooler brackets & intake filter $2000 - ECU + Install + Tune $200 - Deutschworks fuel pump $400 - new larger injectors (Denso or Bosch) $300 - Oil and water lines $100 - Sump modification for oil return Then add the usual for better tyres/clutch/oil cooler etc etc. So with about $10K budget it should just scrape in with labour and stock internals, that's a similar setup to what I did on Pipi's corolla. It can be done cheaper using secondhand parts etc, but that's a basic rundown on what's required for a reliable setup.

Threw the shafts in today to check how much room is available for the dump pipe, looks like there's plenty of space for a 3" dump to pass between the intermediate shaft and the steering rack. Will be interesting to see how the clearance in an AE92 compares once this one's out of the shed. Also bracketed the intake pipe to the top gearbox engine mount. Ripped the vibration dampener off the top of the mount and threaded the remaining post with an M6 die. Chopped up some square alloy tube, bit of grinding, linishing, welding and it's all sorted...

if it's breaking at the edge of the weld then there's too much HAZ in the metal. Get someone else to TIG it.

Basic layout of the intake is complete, more brackets, BOV mount/return and finish-welding still left to do. Used one of the usual 6" base K&N filter/alloy podram that I use on most of my cars

why are the welds breaking? If it's welded properly it should hold, use something like an ER70S filler with the TIG after sandblasting the inside clean If the metal's degrading then rip it out and weld in a new section.

cooler pipes are now basically done, just brackets, BOV and shield lugs to be added. Decided to run the outlet pipe over the turbo/manifold to make the routing shorter and easier. There will be a couple of ACL Race heatshields in between with 10mm air gaps to try and keep some heat out of it.

just put all the bolt-on's to your current engine. The long motor's had no differences in the turbocharged cars.

check/replace the waterpump

to get the air out of ZZE's I jack the front up as high as my large trolley jack goes, then use a bottle with the base cut off jammed into the filler neck and run the engine up to temp to get the air out while topping the level up. the line to the overflow bottle needs to be clamped while doing this. The filler point needs to be higher than the rest of the system to have any chance of getting all the air out.

go to somewhere like CBC bearings with the old one. a new one will cost less than $1.

champion! i'll do that tomorrow, hopefully toyota have some in stock :) also i heard from someone that toyota long life coolant (red) isn't too friendly on rubber... he said that ford used to use red coolant until it did the same thing and they changed to the green coolant. he said the dye is the culprit. how accurate is this i wonder? full of s**t. The toyota red coolant is awesome. Remember when you remove that plug it will basically drain your whole radiator, so be prepared for that and you'll also have to refill and burp the system afterwoods.

replace the o-ring on the drain plug, shouldn't leak after that. There's meant to be a little movement in the radiator mounts.