CHA54

I'd try another dealer personally. Worst case just order one from Amayama: http://www.amayama.com/search/?q=90430-05019

have someone hold the outer end so the shaft is level, then get a drift and big hammer and knock the inner cv out of the box. It can be hard to get a good angle on it due to the north south subframe.

car has now progressed to paint stage... I stripped the rest of the body, doors, boot etc, welded up the aerial holes on the A pillar, welded a couple of spots of new metal into the boot lip where it had started to rust at the seam spotwelds, then prepped all the panels with a 3M purple strip disc to take off any surface rust spots from previous stonechips then scuffed the panels with 80grit on the random orbit sander. Got the bonnet, bootlid, and doors all etch primed today with Dupont 840R Epoxy Primer Surfacer. Will do the guards and shell tomorrow if the weather's good.

there's no glue like the order corolla's. Over time the foam perishes.

see the last pic on this page: http://www.globaldenso.com/en/products/aftermarket/plug/basic_knowledge/troubleshooting/index.html Try some dielectric grease on the coil boots.

2zz's in the US and japan have drive by wire throttles... For the cold hesitation, you can try a spark plug 1 range hotter. Also check the seams on the coilpacks for discolouration or any brownish marks. If they have brown marks or cracks the coils are arcing out to the head.

best to soak the whole area in fish oil. The rust on the seal sealer is from runoff, there will be a ton more under it between the panel gaps. Rust converter will damage the current coating on the rest of the steel, when you use rust converter it's best to wire-wheel the surface rust off first, then apply the rust converter. Any steel that turns from bright silver to black, you grind out and re-apply the converter... repeat until it stays bright silver then you know you've removed all the offending rust.

Genuine filters aren't expensive. I typically use ryco on engines I'm starting for the first time doing an oil flush on, the once it's flushed I'll switch to a genuine filter. The genuine air filters have a better surround than the ryco filters, I wouldn't use anything but a genuine fuel filter in a ZZE. You may get a bit of squeal with the RB74's, genuine pads are also fine if you're not tracking the car. 5W30 is also fine and good for the VVT mechanism.

Caldina doesn't run leads, it's coil on plug. I would also not run 20psi on an ST215 bottom end if you plan on keeping the rods in the block. Order a new oxygen sensor from Amayama.com, if the fuel consumption doesn't go down then that's what it uses. It is a heavy AWD car with a 2L engine afterall, of course it will be thirsty. You'll be spending at least $1K for any piggyback installed and tuned. You do not need a proper aftermarket ECU, which would be closer to 3-4K installed and tuned.

yep, 99% of the mechanical side of things is now complete. Work has started on my least favorite thing which is bodywork/paint. Took a slightly longer video of the car moving around before that though :) Stripping the outisde surface of all the panels to bare metal to make things a bit easier:

as above, there's a ton of factors that effect the price. Labour is the biggest component. Doors-shut job in 2 pack can be done for $2500 drive in, drive out. A proper job including door jambs, glass out, rust repair etc will cost a LOT more. I spent $500 on the single-stage 2-pack undercoat and topcoat for my ae82 sedan, that doesn't include any of the other consumables required.

take it back and get some castrol powersteering fluid or castrol ATF, they're both red.

what ECU? If it's the stock ECU you can't tune it.

he's sure spammed that across a lot of forums

the 7mge's are basically guaranteed to blow a headgasket at some point, check if it's already been done. They also leak a lot of oil out the distributor after a couple of hundred thousand K's, to fix it you need to dissasemble the distributor and replace the internal oil seal on the shaft. It's also common on MX83 to have worn bushes which causes the rear end alignment to wander a bit, aftermarket replacements are availalbe. If the car has a lot of K's then it's probably due for wheel bearings also. If you're after a grande MX83, it's hard to find one with good condition leather front seats. If they're not well cared for the leather will be all cracked. I usually replace the seats with the cloth varient from a GLX. Starter issues are also common, usually caused by worn contacts in the starter and carbon build-up in the contacts of the ignition barrel. The dodgey fix is to add a starter relay, proper fix is to replace the starter soleloid contacts and clean the barrel contacts. An MX83 is a 20 year old car, so expect it to have some maintenance issues. They're still far bettern than an equivalent year commodore/falcon etc in terms of build quality.

the delivery time varies depending on the colour/spec you order. Easier to get your hands on a GT instead of a GTS, easier again to get the auto versions instead of manual. I ordered a silver manual GTS on June 7th, with an ETA of October.

STI Brembo's bolt straight up, just get the 5x100 disc or redrill the 5x114.3 discs. Swap the bleeders to the opposite ends of the caliper so the larger piston is on the leading edge. Calipers are $1200 each brand new from Subaru, or get a full set of calipers/discs/pads for the front and rear second hand for $1800. Hardest part of going to Brembo's is finding a quiet brake pad for them.

it's $15K NZ to get just the brakes from North Shore Toyota, before shipping and import duty! Makes buying brand new Brembo calipers/pads/shims/discs from subaru for the front and rear look like chump change.

got the plates for mine :)

I'd say the RPM's are equivalent to Exedy in that the damper spring retainers snap on both clutch plate brands.

No need to sit on the floor anymore... fitted AE92 levin seats to AE82 rails: and a shot of the basically-finished engine bay:

The mechanic would have given the part number to his supplier, they would have called clutch industries and clutch industries would have supplied their equivalient RPM clutch kit.

Drove under it's own power yesterday, was good to get it out of the shed. A bit hard to drive with no drivers seat ;)

the majority of aftermarket ECU's will work fine with the stock ECT sensor, just set it up as a standard NTC sensor for calibration. The stock coolant guage wont work without piggybacking the stock ECU into the system to run it or making an aftermarket box of tricks to convert one of the ECU outputs to provide the signal required. Anthony from Kaizen Garage has made a converter that can do this for adaptronic ECU's.

it will not be the actual throttle body. If anything it would be related to the TPS but that would show up on Toyota's scan tool. I'd be swapping the stock intake back onto it first, but I'm guessing you didn't get that with the car? Does your CES intake have the 2.75" modification at the MAF section so it reads correctly? What method did you use to clean the MAF? Over time the ISCV's can wear when run without the coolant lines connected, it's difficult to test them properly without an aftermarket test rig to monitor the valve position and response through the PWM range.