CHA54

made a start on the end tank and cooler pipe on the difficult side. 2.5" pipework oval'd to clear the headlight and frame rail.

The EPC doesn't break down to the level where it shows a single cable, so I'm 99% sure the toyota parts department wont be able to help you without selling you a whole control module: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_G_2004_TOYOTA_COROLLA_ZZE123R-GHFQFQ_8715.html

http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/index.php?cPath=21_38

they can take a fair amount of abuse on the stock ECU, it's got the safetynets built in to prolong the life of the engine. When you put in a lower-end ECU like a powerfc you lose all those safety nets, and it doesn't take much to ruin a bottom end without them. A complete new bottom end is ~$2400 from toyota RRP, add a gasket kit and head studs and you could get away with repairing the car under $3K with DIY labour

so the crank was jammed one day and it wouldn't turn over, but now it starts? It wont be the timing chain, it can't stretch far enough to get the crank and cam synch's out of alingment so it wont start.

my money's on it being the clutch, but if it's an issue with the long motor, that basically means a piston/rod/oil pump has failed and the motor is siezed. If the head's undamaged then all that would be required is a short motor to get it back on the road quickly. You basically wont know until the box is removed and clutch inspected.

so you've either stuffed the clutch and part of it has jammed the flywheel, or you've done a long motor with a dud tune.

does it crank over, or is it completely jammed? Can the crank be turned with a spanner from the balancer? I've had an exedy disc that popped a spring completely jam up an MR2 driveline before.

Aftermarket clutch? If so, it's likely you've popped a damper spring out of the clutch plate and it's jammed.

Sorted the plenum so it can be bolted up permanently. Chopped out a hole and welded in some 10mm plate drilled and tapped for a bosch combo 3bar map/intake air temp sensor. Turned out better than expected:

got the fan shroud sorted yesterday arvo and finished it off this morning, used 2mm alloy sheet for the face and 12x3 bar for the top and bottom ribs, then 35x3 bar for the side plates. Since I dont have a pan brake I just welded the whole lot up, also welded some tabs to the side of the cooler and installed some m6 nutserts to them so the shroud can be bolted down securely. The fans are a pair of 11" low profile SPAL's purchased directly from SPAL USA as they're far too expensive locally.

timing will be out for sure. What procedure did you use to install the distributor? If it runs at all then the exhaust cam should be installed correctly with the knock pin in the right orientation. What does the timing light tell you when it is running? I'm guessing you can't see the mark at all on the timing cover scale. You may have installed the dist 180deg out, or a tooth or two advanced/retarded. Can be tricky to get the distributor installed spot-on. If they're toyota cams then you should see the divot in the camshaft through the oil filler when it's at TDC, then line up the marks on the distributor gear and housing, install it so the fixing bolts are in the center of the adjustment range. Then it should start and just need adjusting with the light.

there isn't a listing for a powersteer ECU on toyodiy for the T-sport, but if it's anything like other toyota's with similar systems then it will have a separate control box which has a speed input so the steering gets heavier the faster you go. There doesn't look to be any hydraulic lines going to the T-sport rack, just the motor on the upper steering column.

you will get SFA gains from a traditional piggyback in conjunction with the stock ECU. The stock ECU will learn it's way back to toyota's optimal fuel and ignition trims. You need to take the stock ECU out of the fuel/ignition/vvt control equation if you want to push the limits.

The link G4 xtreme and Vipec V88's have been used successfully on the 2GR's, in both NA and supercharged trim. If you had cash to burn you could make a plugin adapter to run either alongside the stock ECU so your dash etc remains fully functional. Or just rip the 2GR out and put it in something RWD and get rid of the factory ECU completely ;) Green line is NA, purple line is after the addition of a TRD charger shipped from Aus: On this car:

it's not possible to retune the stock ECU by reflashing like it is with subaru/mitsubishi. If you've got a stock ECU'd sportivo, the only thing a dyno will do for you is tell you the power level.

sorted the rest of the fuel feed over the weekend. Grabbed a Z373 filter, some M14 barb'd banjo's, a couple of weld-on -6 fittings and some scrap steel and came up with this: Also started fitting the AC stuff so I can figure out what size/style cooler will fit and finished modding the shift cable bracket for the box

will keep it and track it for a bit then probably sell and start a new project

did it myself with VHT wrinkle paint, takes a bit of practise to get a neat finish

couple of months probably

the new supra's already here, LFA!

o2 sensor will not give any extra power at all. It's only used for closed loop corrections at cruise and idle, not under power. 160hp would be about right on JEM's mainline

made a start on the dump pipe this weekend after replacing all the brakes on my forester. Using a section of 2" mandrel bent tubing, I split it in half and then welded a couple of sections in between the halves so the resulting outlet has the same circumference as a bit of 3" tubing. Still a bit of shaping to go on the outlet so it's a nice transition but it will work well enough. One cool thing I discovered is that it's possible to install the turbo & manifold as one piece :)

remove the front seat

what did you expect? A powerfc wont magically give you massive top end gains. It will do more for the midrange with a good tune, and from the graph it looks like you have a substantial improvement in the midrange. An ECU on an otherwise stock engine is not a great "Bang for buck" modification.