CHA54

it's pretty easy to monitor the intake temp with a powerfc ;)

welded one up myself with a 5" podram. The one pictured above uses a 6" podram.

I've done both, you get better throttle response with the SRI and better overall torque/power with a proper CAI with the pod in the guard. If you relocate the battery you can get a shorter CAI made that has the best of both worlds. 70mm piping is the best choice, 76mm (3") is to big and 2.5" is too small for the MAF to read correctly. eg:

do you think your traction control and stability control will work with the PFC controlling fuel and ignition??

use your stock 7a block/crank/sump, grab a blacktop 20V head, aftermarket rods and pistons, and turbocharge it. eg: http://forum.4age.org/index.php?/topic/193-ae92-levin-gtz-7agte/

get the exhaust re-made to sit closer to the body, if it's done right it wont hit the body anywhere. I've done a ZZE with a 5" center barrel and that car scrapes the chassis rails before the muffler hits the ground. They can also weld in some flat bar between the pipe and the muffler edge to give it some additional strength.

there's no need to run parallel ECU's. Run the powerfc with the appropriate wires repinned to the celica position on a fields harness. You will run into issues sharing sensors that use internal pullup resistors in the ECU etc.

you changed from the blitz setup to a TRD charger???

well it's a ton of labour to repair. They'd replace any parts that are paint/oil damaged, the engine and fuel tank would have to come out, engine torn down and cleaned/re-assembled, fuel tank stripped down and cleaned, pump/filter assy replaced, radiator cleaned/replaced, etc etc etc. With labour being around the $80/100hr mark they may class it as uneconomical to repair.

why did you replace the throttle body? I'd be looking at the throttle body, the hoses it connects to and the intake manifold. Is the throttle plate completely shut with no pressure on the accel pedal?

vac leak

to test if it's the TPS adjustment on the new throttle body, unplug the TPS connector and see if the idle stabilises.

when you changed the throttle body, did you swap over the TPS and ISCV from the old one? Did the rubber gasket stay in place on the manifold when bolting up the new throttle body? If there's a vac leak at the throttle body you will end up with a bouncing idle as described. This is because the vac leak causes an increased idle that can go up and hit the "fuel cut rpm" while the throttle plate is shut.

1st question, what ECU? 2nd question, what did you disconnect/remove/reconnect? If you took the MAF out and the o-ring got pinched going back in the leak could cause some running problems. If you didn't take the TPS off the throttle body I doubt it would be related.

you've flattened the battery. Charge the battery or jump start the car, and check all the EFI fuses/relays before continually cranking the car again.

MAF placement and tube diameter is the most critical part to ANY intake for a ZZ corolla. Get it wrong and your MAF will read incorrectly and cause all sorts of running problems with the ECU.

I've read just about everything here, the ones you mention are out of my price because I want to do some other things as well eg. wheels. Looking to buy the 698751TP K&N for about $200 delivered. Unless there's a compelling argument not to go with that because it's too hard to install yourself... That part number brings up a SRI, I would avoid these unless you plan to drive through water. What is the diameter? That is the most important bit. 2.75" is the perfect size for the 2zz. The AEM is 2.5", while Injen and CES are 2.75". The K&N SRI is a poor design, MAF's mounted on a bend and the filter's too close. A Sportivo woth one installed at a recent dyno day in Brisbane made about 60% of the power a stock car makes.

replace the thermostat with a genuine part, while the coolant's drained take the radiator to a radiator place to have the core unblocked. They remove one of the tanks and clear the core tubes with a steel rod. If it's never been serviced before it will be at least 40% blocked.

was in NSW for Saturday and Sunday of the weekend, got a little bit done today after spending the morning at the wreckers collecting more bits for other cars. redrilled and machined the new protec discs (same as DBA743) to 4x100 pcd and 265mm outside diameter. At 265mm there is about 1mm of disc overhang on the pads and the AE111 superstrut calipers clear nicely... Just have to rebuild the calipers now and the front brakes can go together.

http://toyotaownersclub.com/post11597.html#p11597

the stroked 2zz's with all the fruit get a tad over 140kw atw. So that's rods, pistons, crank, cams, ECU, headers, exhaust etc etc etc. Neil Trama is the man to speak with if you have the cash. http://www.neiltrama.com/

more boring stuff done this weekend, cleaned up the rear arms and fitted superpro bushes, cleaned up the hubs and painted the disc dust shields. With the arms all fitted I then assembled the EFI tank and fitted that to the car. I've fitted a US Supra Denso 280lph fuel pump to the AE82 hanger, direct replacement for the original AE82 pump which is nice. I did upgrade the wiring to the pump though to cope with the extra amps the supra pump can draw at full load (18A). I drilled out the AE82 electrical bulkhead fitting for the positive wire and then put a 5mm hole through the center of it and parted off the spade-shaped lug inside the tank. With this done I was able to use a 5mm bolt/nut and new ring terminals to fit the heavier gauge wire. Also pulled the cam cover off the engine to see how gummed up the engine is, I'd bought a complete gasket set and ARP head studs in anticipation of the top end being in poor condition... to my suprise it's very clean, so I'll be leaving the head alone for the moment. Just waiting on new brake discs and lines now, then the car can go back on the ground

so did Craig do the redrill and rings?

it wont be the driveshaft. Although it is interesting that they charged for a repack of the driveshaft CV's and a complete exchange shaft. The exchange shafts come with both the inner and outer CV's assembled with new boots etc. The usual test for worn CV's is to find a large empty area where you can drive figure-8's lock to lock and listen for cyclic clicking noises from the front end.