CHA54

a CAI or Exhaust will just make engine-related warranty claims more difficult

de-honda'd the cam cover, took ages to strip the wrinkle paint from all the crevises... Also pressure tested the fuel rail and found a pinhole leak at the weld-on AN fitting so fixed that up and gave it a coat of satin black VHT. Some pics from a few different angles showing clearances etc

Got the rest of the return fuel system sorted this afternoon, mounted a turbosmart FPR800 on a custom bracket and bent up some 3/8 alloy hardline and flared it with some -6 AN tube fittings to connect the reg to rail.

your current narrowband gauge is completely useless for tuning. it's accurate at stoich only.

I like the NGK AFX wideband combo with the NTK sensor. I also own a few Innovate LC1's and a Tech Edge 2C0.

An AE101 shift lever fits just fine in an AE82 or AE92 cradle, as does an AE111 lever. It's not that hard to modify the stock shifter lever to be a real short throw shifter if you have a workshop at your disposal.

I wasn't aware you had mount inserts with washers, my bet is these are the cause of the knocking. It wont be the diff or CV's.

It's the map for sure. You wont fix it without a laptop interface and wideband o2 sensor.

hole in block, fire put out with coke, failed warranty claim with toyota :P

you can try it, just note down the values so you can change them back if it doesn't work. I never used the handcontroller, I bought a FC Datalogit for my powerfc tuning.

The powerfc increases or decreases the ignition timing at idle to help control the idle speed in association with the ISCV. If the fuel map is a bit rough around idle then the AFR fluctuations can have an impact on the idle speed, which then sends the PFC into a mess as it screws around with the igntion timing and ISCV duty to try and achieve the defined idle speed.. I've heard that if you set all the idle values to zero then it disables the PFC's stupid idle ignition control, but I got rid of the PFC in pippy's car and replaced it with a vipec before I had a chance to test that.

Do you have a powerfc? If so, the fuel map needs fixing around idle. Unfortunately the PFC does what it wants with ignition timing around idle which can also compound the problem.

Finished off the fuel rail with a -6 weld on fitting today, then cleaned up and sat the spare intake plenum in place, cleaned up the cam cover and proceeded to stuff up the application of VHT wrinkle paint :P Nozzle blocked halfway through the first coat and then after removal and cleaning I managed to damage the seal in the top of the can and it ended up ****** paint everywhere and wasn't easy to get even thick coats onto the cover. I'm happy enough with how the red wrinkle looks so will strip the paint off, get another can and refinish it... Plenum is just sitting in place at the moment, I still have to tap a 1/8" NPT hole in it somewhere for the intake air temp sensor.

it would be quite obvious if the plug had hit the piston, the electrode etc would be mashed.

sorted the T25 collector and fuel rail today. did some slight mods to the collector so it fits the T25 profile nicely, I didn't flatten the sides as I plan to port the turbo inlet flange to match the collector. Made up a 1/4" NPT bung to weld onto the fuel rail to convert it to return-style with a 90deg -6 full flow elbow. I'll make an alloy hardline to go from the return fitting to the fuel pressure regulator that will be mounted on the end of the head towards the firewall.

Built into the tach, see the three LED's there? ;)

more toys... Nice way to package a multiple gauge order, all nicely in one box, the different looms/sensors all packaged and labelled nicely.

some people pull the outside windscreen trims off and pack as much sikaflex into the gap that they can to try and seal it off, some do it properly and have the windscreen cut out, channel cleaned up, new metal welded in where it's rusty, resprayed and then new screen fitted with new trim. That will probably cost you more than the car is worth though.

It wont be the cowell. Water leaking and filling the footwell is a common problem on any AE92 that has ever had the windsceen replaced. If the windcreen is ever removed you will also find a ton of rust under the sealant. When the windscreen guys cut the old screen out, they usually dig into the metal with the removal tool, which then gives a perfect spot for rust to start developing. I've repaired a lot of AE92's with rusty windscreen channels.

Paul is still at Crossley's, he's the owner ;) He does nice safe tunes which wont leave you with a popped engine. I believe Steve did the tuning on Matt's car a few years ago. I'll be taking my turbo 2zz to Paul to get the top end dialed in

Celica/Sportivo has no bearing on how long it takes to complete the tune. I'm a little suprised it took Matt 6 hours though as he's tuned a few PFC 2zz's...

AC drain goes through the firewall on the passenger side, from the middle box of the 3 boxes bottled to the firewall. On the far passenger side there's the blower fan box, then the AC box is in the middle, then the heater core is in the center behind your center console. The AC box has a hose coming out of the firewall-side near the bottom. Reach up under it along the firewall and you should be able to feel the hose. If the drain hose has come off the box then you will get a bit of dampness in the passenger footwell, more likely to be a leaking windscreen if you've only noticed it during the rain periods and the carpet is quite wet. When the windscreen develops a leak, the water goes down the A pillar, drains down behind the kick panel trim and accumulates in the footwell. Its more of a pain when the windscreen develops a leak on the drivers side, as you usually end up with a wet main fuse/relay panel which then plays havoc with the main electrical system (random hazzard lights etc) The other thing that provides wet carpet is a leaking heater core. Check the coolant level, if it's low you may have a leaking heater core (caused by internal corrosion of the core, and it's a complete bitch to replace as the whole dash has to basically come out.) If the heater core is leaking the easiest fix is to bypass the core by looping the heater lines on the engine in the bay, then you end up with no heater in the car and a slightly less efficient cooling system.

plugs wouldn't be the cause of the oil, more likely worn rings or valve stem seals in that cylinder. Gap the plugs down and put them back in, or put in some standard plugs. You need a compression tester to do a compression test. Remove all spark plugs from the engine, screw compression tester into 1 cylinder, crank engine with the throttle held wide open, check gauge reading. Repeat on all cylinders.

didn't get anything done on the car over the weekend as I had to do a trip to NSW. Have got a bunch of files ready to send to the laser cutters this week though, getting T25 inlet/outlet flanges cut for the turbo, a bunch of 2zz exhaust flanges, a custom T25 actuator bracket and a new dash cluster bezel to mount some speedhut revolution gauges from the US. I really didn't want to run a cable speedo with the turbo next to the firewall, so bit the bullet and bought a full set of gauges for the car. Fitting speedo, tach, oil temp, oil pressure, coolant temp and fuel level gauges into an old stock cluster, along with the warning light symbols from the original AE82 cluster. Will look just like this but with black bezels on the gauges: 2 1/16" outer gauges and 3 3/8" speedo and tach, boost gauge will go on the pillar

I'm getting 5x 2zz flanges laser cut if you end up needing one. Should only cost a few hundred to get custom headers made to fit your car.