CHA54

Have already got AE111 superstrut twin piston brakes, just have to machine down the outside diameter of the disc to 263mm from 272mm and they bolt straight up :)

A bit more done over the weekend. Finished all the brake hard lines, refinished the front suspension arms and fitted superpro bushes, cleaned and rebuilt the twinky hubs with new wheel bearings, fitted the 280lph Denso fuel pump and modified the fuel pump hanger to accept larger gauge wire for the extra amperage of the pump. Also cleaned up a bunch of the brackets and gave them a coat of VHT black. Bolted in the steering rack and fitted the rebuilt hubs with the old twinky struts. Didn't get to the brake calipers of disc machining this weekend but should get all that done throughout the week after work. Two of the mounts are now fitted with machined 70duro poly rod, I need to borrow an indexing wheel to use with my mill to cut some slots in them so they're livable on the street

it will be a sensor fault

Yep, Craig's the man. Does awesome fabrication of all sorts and is very reasonably priced.

the containers I got from tyco had 4 headers in each. They were sourced through a wholesaler that deals in lots that are split from the MOQ, and bought as part of a $10K order.

If you want someone to machine up rings to locate a different disc, then Craig at Extreme Engineering in Archerfield can do it easily. U2/ 142 Beatty Rd Archerfield, (07) 3274 3700 Tell him Jason with the 2J Cressida referred you.

I've got a whole bunch of them new from AMP. You can have one for $40 posted. The other option is to desolder the socket from an old ECU or buy a fields harness.

If you're going to use rotors with a larger center bore than your hub, you can get a locating ring machined up so it's a press fit on the hub and locates the disc properly. This is commonly done with the cressida brake upgrade that uses the 4 piston sumitomo calipers from a GTST skyline and BA Falcon disc. I've been told that GUS Engineering at Slacks Creek can make custom hub-centric spacers if you need less offset and still want the wheel to have it's force taken by the hub instead of the studs. If you try and fit wheels where the center bore is smaller than the hub size, then you can get the rims machined out by places like Wheel Revolution.

got the hard part of the brake lines done... Bolted up the AE112 booster/master combo for the last time, was happy to find that the AE112 proportioning valve also bolted up to the stock AE82 bracket that the rear line fitting and clutch hardline bracket bolt to. A small amount of tweaking was needed to make the stock AE112 hardlines from the master to valve fit. With that done I made some new stainless adapter lines to hook up the twinky rear brake hardlines. All that's left now is to modify the stock twincam front brake hardlines to bolt up to the T-piece mounted under the master (Drivers side hardline) and the extra straight-through outlet of the proportioning valve (passenger side hardline). Twinky power steering rack is all reco'd and ready to fit, also took delivery of a car-load of superpro stuff tonight for it so I'll be able to get started on the suspension arms etc now.

Garbage wheel nuts... Use a pin punch and a hammer to try and undo what's left of the nut, worst case drill out the wheel stud and replace it. When it's done get some proper steel wheel nuts.

adjust the clutch master pushrod. If it's not going into 2nd then the plate is dragging. Castrol VMX80 works fine in the C60 boxes.

TD04L, GT28rs, basically whatever mid size turbo you want to make a manifold to fit.

progress is slow, have been working on prepping the EFI tank and powersteering stuff for installation. I'm going with a supra 280lph denso pump and external filter/reg for the fuel system, the tank was a bit crusty inside so I've cleaned and treated the interior and sandblasted/painted the exterior. The powersteer rack has been sandblasted and is being fitted with new rack/tie rod ends and boots.

The gap is not fine! Looks like the rings are the wrong size, remove them, dont drive the car with a gap between the wheel hub and the disc face.

my ECUDatascan works on the ZZE122's, dont know anyone with a ZZE123 close by to test it on. I've seen a Blitz RVIT working on a south african made ZZE123

what did the shipping cost end up at for that lot?

$1498 with 2m loom

Yeah, the 420C has been discontinued and 440 has taken it's place. At least the 440 uses better Tyco/AMP loom plugs compared to the agricultural spec stuff on the 420C. Only downside to the 440 is the tuning interface and the logging, hopefully the guys will put some time into that to make it better in the future. I deal with the QLD Adaptronic distributor a lot.

vvti 1U or standard 1U? If it's vvti you may run out of inputs/outputs with a v44. Since it has 4 ignition and 4 injection outputs you run batched injectors and waste spark. For closed loop knock control you would also need an external knock amplifier with the V44. The V88 has two knock inputs built in, and a ton of inputs/outputs so you can run full sequential injection/ignition. V88 is around $2400 from memory with a long loom, water temp and air temp sensors. Only extra bit you'd need is a map sensor. V44 is around $1700 I think also with long loom water and air temp sensors. The V44 also has an on-board map sensor you can use or alternately use an external sensor like I did on Pippy's 1zzfte. I've currently got my daily driver forester running on a V44 plugin board, it originally ran a V88 which I've now put onto my vvti 2jz cressida. The 2zz turbo AE82 I'm in the middle of putting together has a v44 sitting here for it, and I need to get another v44 for the ZZ powered AE92 I have to do after the AE82. They work really well on toyota engines and reluctor triggers. Some of the new haltech gear is also good apparently but I've had no personal experience with it. I've only used Adaptronic, Autronic, Vipec, PowerFC and the Emanage range.

Vipec would be my choice, I have had nothing but good results with them, they have default support for the 1UZ and also support the flex fuel sensor input for properly tuning the fuel and ignition maps. Link G4 also does a good job but doesn't have the mixture map like the vipec, mixture map makes street tuning the fuel map a hell of a lot easier. If you download the PCLink for the G4 ECU's from Link's site you can have a play with the 1uz map included in the download The logging and interface on both the vipec and link is streets ahead of adaptronic. The adap's will also run the engine just fine.

1zz engines are plentiful at the wreckers. Should only cost around $500 for a lowish km long engine, then about a days labour to swap it in. Will be a hell of a lot cheaper than a rebuild.

have you tracked it or shifted hard on the current clutch?

The only sportivo there was quite a long way down on power

not much progress, focusing on the body now as the hard part of the mechanical side of things is complete... spent half the day at a FWD dyno day today with the 1zzfte, got home this afternoon and decided to fix the rust in the car. As luck would have it, the only section of rust in the sedan was not rusted in the donor AE82 twincam hatch. So I cut a section out of the hatch and tig'd it into the sedan. Will re-do the seam sealer and give it a skim coat of bog when the body is ready for spraying. Rust cut out of sedan: Donor section cut out of hatch: Donor section cut and shaped to fit sedan, tacked in place: Donor section fully welded on 15-17A with 1mm filler wire: Rear quarter attacked with a flap-disk:

I'm not sure if you'd be able to see the cracked retainers through the fingers of the clutch cover with an inspection camera.