Kenshin X

2nd that :D i didn't wanna say it myself i was thinking someone else will say it for me :D there is a line to cross and i think he did it <_<

seriously... i think BLKTRD would have trouble selling it... and yes its a 1ZZ... not a 2zz <_< the description seems a bit... vague? 40k spent on it! car must be SOLD? :D if he had something like, all receipts kept or watever, could be more believable...

240-165=big difference, so yes. $165 is cheap, make sue they are in fact 205/50/16 and not 205/55/16 (which won't fit in the boot). nice will do those, when my fronts are completely worn out :)

i looked into those r001s... they cost 165ea, would this be a good price? the guys said that they usually charge 240ea for them!

The reason why you see that your engine oil is dark, is because it is doing it's job in suspending any loose particles from being saturated. It may also mean that your due for an oil change (smell and feel the oil from both the dipstick and on top of the engine - unscrew the oil cap). If you change your oil every 5,000kms or according to the manufacturer's recommended service schedule, you should never ever have to flush your engine...ever! But if your still adamant in doing an engine flush, I would recommend in getting an oil analysis done first to see if you really need too. FYI: I also have an EK4 Honda Civic, purchased new in 1997, 235,000 kms on the clock, engine runs smoothly except for the chirping noise due to engine wear. Serviced regularly at Honda and a family friend who is a mechanic. Never ever had a mechanical problem at all... except for rear tail lights being replaced and getting the aircon re-gased. If I was too flush this engine now, in my opinion, all hell will break lose and wreak havoc in the engine. "The problem with flushing the engine is that even when you put new oil in to lubricate the components that need them there are some areas that the oil cannot get to, that the solvent has now taken away or seeped out of tight spaces. When your engine is built in the factory they use assembly lube on all the parts (bearing journals, etc) before the engine is assembled. This is to prevent damage on the first start up. These are areas where oil, as I said, cannot get if you just fill the crank case with oil. Remember, oil is viscous, and in many cases the tolerances between certain surfaces is in the thousandths of an inch (eg. .005"). On startup, there is a brief moment where the oil pump is not primed, and thus not squirting oild into those areas where it is needed most. Oil left there during a previous run is important in that it protects the engine from damage when you start it up again. On a NEW startup, there is no oil in there at all. And as said, if you remove that with solvents... the engine is going to be toast in no time." http://digg.com/autos/Never_Get_an_Engine_Flush_Here_s_Why yeah i heard about deposits building up in engines helping to seal up the rings and such, and when these deposits are washed away, then it starts to burn more oil becuz of oil leaking thru them. I do change the oil every 5000 but this time i think i'll wait abit longer ~6000 just to be consistent with the ODO. thanks for clearing this up guys. cheers

i'm currently using mobil super 3000 semi syn, would this be a high detergent oil compared to the penrite semi syn HPR10?

You should'nt really be flushing your engine unless there is something majorly wrong with it (ie. filled it up with diesel instead of petrol). As you flush your engine, the materials you use to flush it with, may loosen any particles that may have help seal off any leaks on rubber seals or dislodging saturated oil sludge back through the engine that may end up blocking valves, etc. Therefore, causing more damage than good. What's your reason to flush it anyway? I know for a fact that the top vehicle manufacturing companies do not recommend engine flushes for any reason unless your engine, unless it has a severe problem like the one mentioned above, etc. when i changed the oil last time, it was pretty dark. the next service the oil was alittle better, so i thought i'd give it once a year to keep the insides nice and clean?

ahh female driver eh? probably rode the clutch LOL. sorry mate can't help u with the mechanic installing the pads, someone will tell u in time though :P check the alternator with a voltmeter, put it on 20V reading and cross them on the battery while the car is idling WHEN WARM. that way u will get the idle at its lowest (~800rpm) and hence the more accurate reading. If its too high (14V+) or too low (-10V), your alternators stuffed. If it fluctuates too much, your alternators stuffed. The only time when battery needs changing is when say u driven the car and then turned off for 3 or 4 hours and tried to start again, engine won't start. On the battery, there should be some kind of date thats stamped when the battery was installed. if its more than 3 years, change it. Don't need a high powered one, just use the one recommended. Alternators job to regulate the voltage, you're not running a super computer so don't worry :) Your clutch may need to be adjusted so friction point is lower. My friction point is pretty low as well but i thought this was an indication that it needed to be changed soon and not the other way around? (ie friction point higher up)? also i thought hydrolic clutches can't be adjusted? (correct if wrong guys) do the test on the shocks tomorrow, push/sit on it and jump off whatever. if it bounces more than one cycle ur shocks are stuffed. if the previous owners didn't lower it, shocks still should be good. about those scratches, u might wanna read this thread http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...showtopic=18081 followed the steps shown here last week (spent bloody 7 hours of my life) but its worth it, you can't get the big scratches out but the rest of the car shines like new :D good luck mate, hit lift yet? :P

WTF???? 170 to 175 dollars PER PAIR of brake pads??? i got TRD ones on ebay fronts and rears for just over 100 bucks. fronts: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Genuine-TRD-Black-S...=item3efc9159eb rears: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Genuine-TRD-Black-s...=item3efc9159f6 they work really well, just bedded in the fronts this morning and drives great! no more shuddering on the steering when braking :) as and1 said clean those terminals and put grease or anti corrosion spray on. what was your alternator reading at? if its around 13V +/- 0.5 to 1.0 should be good. i'm running a computer, 1 sub, my iphone charger, HIDs and still the alternator holds. I believe the output is like 110 amps? (correct me if I'm wrong) so there should be plenty of power running through your car. is the lights dimming when the bass is high? how old is the battery? evident wearing on the clutch? is it slipping or revving its head off as you trying to accelerate with the clutch fully disengaged? stock clutches should feel pretty light. HD clutches are a bit more heavy to depress. as for your shocks... did the previous owner lower it before and then sold it to u with stock springs? if so the shock may leak depending on how long its been lowered on standard shocks. a better way is to bounce all four corners of your car. If any of them keep bouncing after one cycle, your shocks have had it. SILVABULLIT has got some awesome springs/coilovers for the ZZE12x, just give him a pm :) did i miss anything? lol cheers Obviously you didn't read what i wrote <_< that's what Toyota quoted me [Terry Shields] and tht;s why i said to buy them elsewhere.... my bad lol

WTF???? 170 to 175 dollars PER PAIR of brake pads??? i got TRD ones on ebay fronts and rears for just over 100 bucks. fronts: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Genuine-TRD-Black-S...=item3efc9159eb rears: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Genuine-TRD-Black-s...=item3efc9159f6 they work really well, just bedded in the fronts this morning and drives great! no more shuddering on the steering when braking :) as and1 said clean those terminals and put grease or anti corrosion spray on. what was your alternator reading at? if its around 13V +/- 0.5 to 1.0 should be good. i'm running a computer, 1 sub, my iphone charger, HIDs and still the alternator holds. I believe the output is like 110 amps? (correct me if I'm wrong) so there should be plenty of power running through your car. is the lights dimming when the bass is high? how old is the battery? evident wearing on the clutch? is it slipping or revving its head off as you trying to accelerate with the clutch fully disengaged? stock clutches should feel pretty light. HD clutches are a bit more heavy to depress. as for your shocks... did the previous owner lower it before and then sold it to u with stock springs? if so the shock may leak depending on how long its been lowered on standard shocks. a better way is to bounce all four corners of your car. If any of them keep bouncing after one cycle, your shocks have had it. SILVABULLIT has got some awesome springs/coilovers for the ZZE12x, just give him a pm :) did i miss anything? lol cheers

Just change what's required. As long as it's the same left and right it won't pull to one side. Unless you have really crappy $20 pads in the rear and $300 pads in the front it will annoy you having limited braking performance due to one end not being up to scratch. yeah me and my uncle just changed the fronts to TRDs and left the rears til later, both ends were prob 30% left? i'm going to bed them in on the freeway late tonight when there isn't any cars around. I have the TRD rears as well but not in a hurry to change them :) 100 bucks for both on ebay ;)

hi SD, would it be recommended to change all the pads at the same time or to change either fronts/rears then change the other set? cheers

hey guys, thanks for the replies. but what i wanted to know is not how u do it, but rather if i used cheap oil that has 20W50 rating, would it be alright to use that with the flushing liquid or do i have to get the same rating as the oil i'm currently using (10W30)? correct me if i'm wrong but i always thought this is better than just chucking the flushing liquid into dirty oil to flush and drain cheers

Use Liquid Moly engine flush. alright i'll search for this and give it a try cheers

hey guys, i read this thread from the forums about flushing oil http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...showtopic=24229 when it talks about flushing it said that u can use cheap super market oil + flushing liquid to flush the oil out. In woolworths i can only find the 20W50 oils. would this be ok to use or i have to use the 10W30 oils to flush? i'm asking becuz i cant seem to find any flushing oil from the auto shops (either out of stock or don't have them) cheers

no corollas can be seen GRRR... man looked awesome, i wanna come next time :P

OMG I have become an addict too! :P i tried on half my bonnet then ended up having to do the full front part of my car! wax goes on soo easily and feels soo smooth! one thing i have though is that sometimes after the claying there are some that stick on the paint in little spots and i find that i need to rub it abit harder to get it out. am i doing something wrong? or is it just the subborn dirt that holds that bit of clay back? regardless i'm pretty happy with the finish! :) byebye scratches and blemishes!

Hey guys, updated list on the products SCA has 15% off all the range of Meguiars Products These are the ones I got today: Wash NXT generation: $22.09 Polish Deep Crystal: $17.82 Polish Paint Cleaner: $14.44 Wash Mitt (Lambs Wool): $18.95 Clay Bar Kit: $29.74 Chamois Microwipe Meguilars: $24.95 All from VIC!

hey wixy, awesome write up man! just wondering i saw that part on the front of the bonnet that looked like the paint chipped off altogether. How did you fix that part? did you just touched it up with red paint? cheers

It's not just the dirt on the brush that scratches the car. The brush itself is very co**** and will scratch the car. Gotta get yourself a lamb wool wash mit lol. ok will do this next time i come to super cheap! i don't notice becuz my car was already badly scratched and has bird etchings all the way to the paint layer :( and its flaking off! :(:( i'll make a new thread to show you guys as so not to pollute this one with my comments! :P

hey guys, i've been washing my car at the self service stations. I thought that if u blast the brush at point blank range to remove the dirt on it, it should be ok to then wash your car with it. Opinions? cheers

Dunno in brisbane but you could look at some falkens? i have Falkens and they were good too, changing mine at 100,000. I think i'm about the same tread as you :P depends how you drive, if you want more grip the tyres wear out quicker, if u want durability than you sacrifice grip (argh the dilemma) :D i got quoted for around 100 ea for the falkens 205/55 r16

ahh, the illuminated ones aren't on ebay anymore? :(

haha yeah i might, the sills aren't that expensive if i remmeber right its 75 dollars? the pedals i'm still thinking becuz i think the original ones do quite well atm (esp in the wet when my foot tends to slip, i think the metal ones will be worse?) :D