SCOOTA44

Finally ordered the K&N sri, just couldn't build one that would do the job. too many issues with ecu modding myself.

Before you got the new trans were you experiencing the problems mentioned by Silver? I guess my main concern is that these a warning signs before the transmission craps out and needs to be replaced conveniently outside my 3 month dealer warranty. Otherwise if it does no damage and just stays as is I can live with that....it just aint that much of a joy to drive, feels more like a chore atm. mine died all together, check posting " transmission gone ?"

Well I have done nearly 30k on the NEW trans, and im not overly impressed with it. Its not smooth at all indecisive in changing and flareing a bit too. will be getting it checked when i go on holiday.

Very interesting concept, dont mind it, except the bits over the mirrors looks a bit dicky.

Thats what i thought too, but was at the dealer for something else and they assured me that the alternator is working fine. Hey Scoota44 I work for an importer/wholesaler and we pride ourselves on being the people auto electricians ask about things like this. If you can get me the chassis number from the car I should be able to get the correct info for you. (Through a mate at a Toyota dealer) Yes there are some late model vehicles in which the alternator is controlled by the E.C.U. or system computer or body control module. If the alternator is a Denso unit there is a possibility that it is only designed to display the charge at low - mid 13's and will not show anything else until it is on the road. In this case the alternator sends a signal to the computer to let it know that all is normal or otherwise. Depending on the power demand at any given time the computer decides how much work the alternator needs to do. This is(according to the EPA)to save the engine driving the alternator unnecessarily thereby saving horsepower - saving fuel - reducing emissions - and saving the planet. yup If the alternator is a Bosch unit it is usual that it should charge at 14.6v which is what most of the late series Bosch alternators are set to. This can also apply to some Denso alternators. Please remember that even though both these units have the same mounting points and the 4 pin plug may well be connected it can take as little as 4-5 seconds to either burn out the(wrong)alternator or in some cases there could be internal damage done to the E.C.U. Many of them have the pin configuration printed on the label. Make sure that if you change the alternator that the wiring diagram on the label is identical. Some units can look identical but this can lead to disaster. Keep us posted on the results of your problems if there are any. thanks for that, it seems to be ok, and the dealerhas assured me that its ok.

the only noise you get is when the motor is off and turn the wheel back and forth there is a slight clunk, when the motor is on there is slight freeplay and its more feel than noise.

Clearly this happened from drivng the wheels of the machine trying to keep up with a certain blue one through st marys pass :P there was no chanced of keeping up with you with your setup !

Got the diagnosis on the steering, the steering rack ends have to be replaced, obviously worn out already.

Thats what i thought too, but was at the dealer for something else and they assured me that the alternator is working fine.

Hey Scoot. 13.5 is ok. The alternator is equiped with a regulator internally. Will vary slightly depending on how much electrical equipment is drawing off the battery. If it the charge rate is too high or to low the ecu will detect a fault. What is the actual problem you are having. More info needed to be accurate. I have been told by auto electrical that its not charging correctly 13.5 volts idling, and only 13.6 @ 3000 rpm, they say it should be 14.4 to 14.8 volts. everything seems to be working fine. being a taxi I have a lot more crap running (2way radio, scanner, tv, etc, so batteries only last 8 to 12 months anyway.

Does anyone know what the charging rate should be? mine is charging at 13.5 volts. and im led to believe that the alternator is controlled by the ECU. if so could there be a problem with the ECU? or would it throw a code if it was that?

Be prepared to remove the rear seat and parcel shelf to get to the strut towers. and be carefull putting it all back together, not to jam the seat on the fuel flap cable like my local dealer did.

will take it back next week. im not happy with it at all, with the windy conditions we have had it seems to float on the highways.

Try insuring them as a taxi ! QBE were going to charge me $3400 this year, they got told ! got CGU $2300 this year. pays to shop around or find a broker who can help you.

I have noticed since i had the trans replaced that there is quite a bit of free play in the steering while driving in a straight line, noticed a bit more driving in the wind, the car seems to weave a bit with the freeplay,I never had an issue with the "intermediate shaft spline" like some others. any ideas?

Gee I miss the throaty scream of the intake when giving it stick,still got the bits and pieces of the custom intake stored away, till I get the urge to put it back in again. The exhaust is still on the drawing board, but cant draw money to do the mod I want :(

Everyone must have given up on the Aurion exhaust, or like me short of cash !

Thanks Daryl,I understand the way it works. probably should have cleaned it with carby cleaner while it was apart,anyway as long as it doesn't effect performance, all good.

When I had the spark plugs replaced I noticed that there is a coating of oil in the airintake tubes,is this normal?

Didnt I stuff up should have ordered some a week ago, replaced mine today, the cost $165 for the set, oh well live and learn

Sounds a bit familiar to mine but I ended up getting a new box and converter. dont drive with it the way it is or you may cause more damage and its not cheap :(

saw the bolt-ons at monkey wrench they look great, but i noticed they eliminate the pre-cats, what happens to the sensors? as these read the gas mix after the pre-cats. also another thought, if you have to modify everything after the headers, why not 2 main cats and twin all the way, i have seen some very small stainless high flow cats which would fit side by side. the headers would make it easier to make the rear bank pipe longer for "equal length" system.

Sweeeet. I've been wanting to get DRLs on my silver zr6 at that spot but I didn't know how it would look. Awesome. I'll probs go for the phillips one. Was it difficult to install? I'm an undergrad engineering student with no modding experience. Do you think that I would have trouble installing it? Oh and for the inline kill switch, I was thinking of putting a similar one beside the park sensor button. How did u do yours? Mine are cheap LED's the drl ones wire in differently, there is a link if you look adamsys posting.