Hiro

Not today, but a combination of last Saturday, Sunday and Monday - dropped the stock suspension out of the 102, and installed the lovelly (bad pun there) shiny brand-new KYBs and Lovells, and the only things I broke were a 1/2"-3/8" drive adaptor, and the internal hex out of one of the swaybar drop-link balljoints (fixed by going to the wreckers and getting a new link+nut) More details in my member's ride thread.

It is an automatic. Will be the torque converter locking up then.

So according to that spec sheet they can do a 15.5.. i wonder if that is the manual or auto time??? cause if its the auto time you could take a bit more of that... Also that lists the magna times as around the 15.2 or so... i know my cousins have got theirs down to 14.5 basically stock... so i'm fairly confident the Camry (in Manual) should be at least low 15s... Remember that everyone tests and times cars differently. It can depend on track, day, time of day, weather, whether they had a full tank of fuel or not, whether they had a second person in the car (either Wheels or Motor do this), how well the driver "knew" the car and could launch it, whether the run was done in both directions etc etc etc. And timeslips of cars "basically stock" (to me than means they AREN'T stock) at a drag strip have to be taken with a grain of salt too - if they're not exactly stock, what mods have been done to improve performance? And did they do as most people do and remove spare tyre/back seats etc to get the weight down a bit, thus also tainting the result?

Good points on the flywheel but the OP's talking about Pulley's (Which drives the belts for the Alternator, powersteering and airconditioning), not Flywheels - the 2GR-FE, being automatic, wouldn't have a flywheel. I must be going blind....

And also, lightened flywheels do NOT increase power. Big misconception there. What a lighter flywheel does is allow the engine to rev faster - it is equivalent to removing weight from the car. The engine still produces the same amount of power, but the car can accelerate faster. Peak power generated at a steady-state RPM will be the same, as any benefit of the less mass that the engine has to rotate will be offset by the reduction in inertia of the flywheel which normally wants to keep the engine revving (a flywheel is designed to be hard to spin up, and once it is spining it is hard to slow down - a light one spins up faster but also slows down faster)

hmmm ur sad... every1's first car isnt that great... and do u stillhave dat car? cause if u do i show u mate dat i aint no ricer, and also i been thru over 15 cars already not funny, dad kept giving me random cars, den taking them away by selling them quickly to make profit, very smart for him, but not for me thought it was stupid, and annoying hahah, but den i got da hang of it, so every couple of weeks i would turn up to skewl in a different car, so it was hectic lol Wait, what? Could you repeat that again in English?

My first car was a 1997 AE102 Corolla Conquest sedan. I still have it, I still drive it, it is still my daily drive. If you want to learn more, look in my members ride threads, I can't be ****d typing it out.

That was the reason for implementing the European Grand Prix and adding San Marino name to Imola, so you wouldn't have the name of one country attached to two different GPs. We currently have 1 country holding 2 races a year now (Spain has both the Spanish and European), so can't see the reasoning there.

The last post was made in Oct 08, but the last "action" (someone voting) was the other day.

Were the tyres cold when you inflated them at the servo? And warm when you got to the other place? Air pressure goes up as the tyres get warm you know, which is why you should always stick to either cold or warm pressures, and not mix the two Nitrogen has got to be the biggest **** in tyres these days. One, when you top up the pressure at a servo/wherever you're putting normal air in anyway, Two normal air is 70% nitrogen anyway, and Three if nitrogen leaks so much less than air, all you have to do is fill with normal air and wait for the oxygen to leach out leaving you with nitrogen anyway. For a race car, MAYBE it is worthwhile. For a road car, the extra $50 or whatever that the tyre place charges you for it is MUCH better spent on new spark plugs, oil change, or anything else which actually contributes to the health of your car.

Bonnet pins are exactly that, pins that hold the bonnet down. Since the only thing holding a bonnet down is the catch, if this fails then the bonnet will fling back into the windscreen. Thus, as a safety precaution, race cars have extra pins inserted into the leading edge of the bonnet and "pin" it to the radiator support. People put them on road cars either because they use it as a track/hillclimb car as well (most CAMS events require bonnet pins), or because they want to look cool and make other people THINK that they race the car.

Some scooters DO have CVTs, especially the Maxiscooter-style (ie a "touring" scooter)

So these "recent developments" which makes CVTs "now capable for use in cars" weren't around when the first car with a CVT was built in 1958 (the DAF 600), and was in a mainstream production model with a normal engine size (1.4L) in 1976 (Volvo 343)? It's only recently that they have been adapted for use on LARGE POWERFUL cars, but CVTs have been on small cars since at least the 80s, if not earlier.

Toyota need to release a road version of THIS as a Sportivo :D

What engine do you have? AFM doesn't sound right unless its a GZE or silvertop 20V. And that "oxygen sensor" isn't an oxygen sensor (those belong in your exhaust), it'll be an intake air temperature sensor.

I know that true manuals weren't sold here, but the gearbox we got was a sequentialised and clutchpedal-less C-series manual box, not a semi-auto. Exactly the impression I had. The gearbox code was something like C56M (I know the 6-speed sequential is a C65/66M)

Fixed the amp trigger wire in the ST162 so that it ran underneath the carpet and no longer dangled above the pedals.

Aren't they sequential C-series manual gearboxes and not semi-autos?

Yep, 1.2L Yamaha FJ1200 sports-tourer, which has interestingly been out of production for 13 years - all engines used in the Aussie Racing cars (ARC is Australian Rally Championship, to avoid confusion) are bought used.

Rear-mounted turbos FTW They're still close to the engine :P In Le Man setups it is indeed FTW B) I was saying more-so for front engined cars. Was aware of that, couldn't help posting photos of the 7 though, it's a reminder of how awesome Toyota used to be. Put it side-by-side with a Camry and you wouldn't know they came from the same country, let alone the same manufacturer.

NSW road rules state that by law the P-plate must be on the exterior of the vehicle and un-obstructed, that plate is clearly obstructed. and u can see from how obvious my front one is, that im not obstructing it on purpose or trying to be sneaky. thats not the point. the point is the way he reacted. if he had of said mate ur plate is obstructed can u fix it.. blah blah ur lucky we're not fining people atm etc. calling me a f***king d**khead and saying that i better be sorry and telling me to get the f***k out of here is wot i protest to and there r people with MUCH more obstructed p's around, that honestly is not bad, i hnow have to put up with my reverse light being blocked, which considering im a pizza deliverer makes it hard to reverse out of peoples driveway's etc... Were there other people around though? Maybe that cop thought you were doing much faster than you really were, and it wasn't until he went back to the patrol car and checked that he realised you weren't - hence to save face he started picking on you for other things. Since it was at night too, chances are the cop was just ****** off and wanted to go home - every job has workers who don't want to be there. I'm not saying that justifies the actions, but it might explain them a bit.

NSW road rules state that by law the P-plate must be on the exterior of the vehicle and un-obstructed, that plate is clearly obstructed.

It doesn't "hold" the revs per-se, it alters the ratio so that the revs fall into a desired range.

They're only putting out 90-odd kw, and they only weigh 500kg so that compensates a lot for the short wheelbase. It's all in the suspension tune anyway, our FSAE car was putting out a tad over 50kw without the restrictor on a much shorter wheelbase and about 300kg, and it was solid and planted like nothing else. Other cars with slightly less weight and shorter wheelbases but much different suspension tunes were twitchy oversteering monsters, especially the ones running singles

Rear-mounted turbos FTW