Hiro

A 10 degree canted engine will still have the cylinders in line with the crank though, thus I don't think would make much difference for MEP calculations etc.....an offset-crank though (where the plane of the cylinders does not pass through the axis of the crank) would make some difference due to the different nature of the piston velocity

How do you mean 10 _degree_ offset to the crank? As in the whole engine is leaning over at 10 degrees? Or do you mean it has an offset crank, that would be measured in mm not degrees.

I still find it funny that the name Hotckis is attached to a performance product.......to most people the name brings to mind Hotchkiss-drive rear-ends, aka the humble leaf-sprung beam axle.

No such thing as an MR2 3T-GTE, the early ones (ie AW11) had the 4AGE or 4AGZE (ignoring povo-spec), the mid-life ones (SW20) had the 3SGE and 3SGTE, and late-model ones (ZZW30) had the 1ZZFE.

Excellent, more Newcastle members....

BZZT wrong, the ST165 was the first GT4. Can't remember if they were sold new here or not though (ST185 and ST205 were though)

Depends on what you are measuring. If you are after what figures you put down on the road, then the lesser of two evils would be the wheel dyno. The hub dyno, like a Dynapack dyno or the likes, do not have the mass/inertia of the wheels to use in the measurement. They may use some figure to compensate for that, but realistically it is not as accurate as a direct measurement. A wheel dyno on the other hand will measure the power directly as it is put down at the wheels. However if you are just monitoring differences or changes to your car, then either dyno will do. Preferably the wheel dyno would be better in my opinion since when running on it, you car pretty much will behave like it will when on the road. Hub dynos take out the problem of tying the car down/wheel-spin though, which is handy...

The actual leeway in NSW is a bit iffy, some people say 10%, some people say the same 3km/h as in Victoria, some people say other things - it's not exactly a hard and fast number, but the cops _do_ give leeway.

Which is surprising condidering Denso is owned by Toyota....

Where is everyone getting this "1km/h" thing from? The 1-10km/h? The old rules said 0-15, so by those rules they could get you for 0km/h over the limit....OMFG they could ping you for doing the speed limit WHAT HAS THE WORLD COME TO? You won't see a rash of people getting done for doing 101km/h in a 100km/h zone, I guarantee it. It is just a wording change to better clarify the fact that going _OVER_ the speed limit is the illegal thing, as the old wording was technically flawed (but no-one picked up on it)

QFT Seems that the bigger the southern cross sticker, the more of a bogan you are and the less of a true "Australian" you are (there will be exceptions of course, but it seems fairly accurate from what I've seen)

Not a huge difference really....

Red P-platers have been on "one-strike and you're out" for a while anyway, all this is adding is that Green P-platers are now "two strikes and you're out". And you're not going to get booked at 1km/h over the limit, they are never that anal (not even in Victoria), and the equipment isn't that accurate either. Chances are it'll be similar to the previous 10% or so, and a bit to do with the officer's discretion, so no change there. And if you're a P-plater and you're speeding, you're an idiot anyway. And the changes are good for us open-license people too, as it reduces the 0-10km demerit points which have been too harsh for ages.

That's a standard feature on a lot of seatbelts for years, it's an extra safety feature for baby seats etc so that the capsule doesn't rock etc under loads that aren't enough to trigger the inertia reel (the locking mechanism when you ***** suddenly on the belt). Very helpful for going for a spirited drive too, you can pull the seatbelt all the way out and then it automatically tightens around you, stops you sliding around more in the seat.

Ahhh, you're supposed to connect the leads when both cars are turned off........

Toymods is a registered club as far as historic rego is concerned as well, so you can drive a historic-rego'd Toyota to any Toymods event. Definitely worth checking out, for more than rego too.

w00t, a local member at last, and with a TRD as well (Ash the Piker would have filled those shoes before, until he woosed out of a job :P )

ST165 is a GenI 3SGTE, not Gen2

Since you said '98, I assume you have an AE101/102. According to the EWG (Electronic Wiring Diagram) from the Gregorys workshop manual, the wires coming from the oxygen sensor (O2 sensor) should be black and brown (B and N codes on the diagram). The brown wire goes to ground, the black wire goes to the OX pin on the ECU plug and the OX1 terminal on the diagnostics connector.

First thing to do would be to find out what box you have in there at the moment - normally the VIN plate will be able to enlighten you on that. Failing that, chances are it'll be a W- or G-series box (I'm thinging G-series because of the column-shift), in which case there's a good chance of a 5-speed from a Hilux etc fitting, as long as it is also a column-shift (may need to swap some shifter parts though, I'm not that versed in column-shifts). Or you can always convert it to a floor-shift, but that's probably a bit more work due to the location of the cab relative to the 'box.

Wouldn't really matter, chances are it never gets driven about 10km/h anyway.

Posted here because your inbox is full: I got my Gregorys from AutoOne, any reputable parts store (even Supercheap and Repco) will happily order one in for you if it's not on the shelves already, if not then they come up on eBay from time to time. They're hard to download because no-one bothers to scan them in - they're not rare like genuine factory manuals so no-one sees the point.

There's a whole sub-culture over there now that's taking over from low-riders called Donks or Hi-Risers, once again it's part of the stupid hip-hop culture of spending ridiculous amounts of money on making something look more ridiculous than your enemies....and then doing drivebys.

FWD car... lock the rear wheels and it will just drag them arround. Maccas trays help, just locking the wheels will still give you too much lateral grip at the slow speeds you'd be going at.

As I've said many times before, get the service manual :P But to take the parkers out, first pop the bonnet. Then undo the single screw bolting the parker cluster to the headlight cluster (it'll be a Phillips-head screw on top of the headlight). Then, wiggle the parker towards the front of the car (it has some spring-clip thingies holding it in too) until it pops free. Then turn the globe holder anti-clockwise and pull out the holder, thus giving you access to the globe itself. I'm sure you can work out what to do from there on.