Hiro

They'd better come with a free hairdryer to dry out the interior, and a brand new loom and ECU because the wiring will be completely shot. When we had the floods up here in June '07, there was a massive amount of flood-damaged cars appearing in the wreckers a month or so afterwards, because even though they were completely straight the insurance companies were writing them off on the spot because of water damage - it soaks up into all the insulation, wiring and other electrics and basically turns the entire car into a time-bomb As an idea of how much damage even just a bit of water can do, g/f's best friend's house got about a metre of water through it in the '07 floods......insurance covered damage to carpet, furniture etc as you'd expect........2 months later, the house burnt down. The insulation in the walls sucked up the water like a wick and shorted all the wiring in the roof cavity

Without checking the actual laws, I think it's safe to say that yes carbon-fibre bonnets are illegal, most likely because they haven't been crash-tested and they'd lack a lot of the protection of a normal bonnet for pedestrians.

To quote Wikipedia, easier than typing it out myself, basically Hiro Protagonist (it's pronounced the same as hero, not Highro as a lot of people say) is the main character of a cyber-punk novel by Neal Stephenson called Snow Crash (very pivotal and important book in the cyber-punk era, and sometimes credited as the source of the term avatar in the common modern sense) Hiroaki "Hiro" Protagonist A half-black, half-Korean hacker, swordsman, former Mafia-employed pizza delivery man, and CIC intelligence agent. Hiro has extensive access to the Metaverse, as he was one of its original developers; for instance, he is the undisputed champion of in-Metaverse sword fighting, having written himself the code which makes such sword-fighting possible. (He also shows enough combat skill in Reality to avoid getting killed in any of the fights he gets in; this is ascribed to "inhuman reflexes.") However, he is completely broke in Reality, having sold his stock in Black Sun before the Metaverse got really popular. Snow Crash It's a bloody good book, if you ask me, and I rank it alongside LoTR/Hobbit and the Gap Series as one of the best science fiction/fantasy books of all time.

But that's not the styling trend of current small cars - to maximise interior room whilst minimising exterior dimensions, most car manufacturers have adopted what is known as the "tall-boy" style, where you sit more upright with your arms still outstretched but your legs more vertical. Compared to an old-skool style seating position where you are half laying down and both arms and legs outstretched, it may feel like the wheel needs to move closer to you, but the car is designed that way. In saying that, every car these days _should_ be designed to have both reach and height adjustment on the steering wheel, as well as pedal adjustment - the reason they don't is pure penny-pinching on the behalf of the manufacturers

Where? I can't see it Oh...

I most certainly hope not, gearboxes have been fully synchronised for well over 20 years (if not 40).

Same thing Toymods has, except normal members can't view the Club Members ride section. And half the members have a copy of their Club Members ride thread in the normal section as well

Engine/transmission mounts on a FWD Corolla go something like this: Drivers-side end of the engine, where all the belts are, to just in front of the driver-side strut tower From the exhaust-side of the bellhousing just where it bolts to the engine, to the gearbox crossmember under the engine/gearbox (ie to below the radiator) Passenger-side end of the gearbox, on top, to the passenger-side of the engine bay just in front of the passenger's side strut tower (most likely under the airbox if you have EFI) Intake side of the gearbox, from the diff to the rear of the engine/gearbox crossmember (I think) So basically, 1 engine mount and 3 gearbox mounts, if you're looking down on top and imagine the engine and gearbox as one rectangle then there is one mount on the middle of each side, pretty simple to find but slightly harder to reach.

Is it not safe to assume it is still the same concept though, right? The concept of a replaceable filter element without a casing which been around for quite a while? This is just a development, not re-inventing the wheel - it's like saying that the current Barra motor in the Falcon is related to the original Falcon 250 Crossflow. It's still an engine, which burns petrol to make rotational energy by means of cylinders and a crank shaft, but along the way things have incrementally changed and advances have been made, but the concept is the same Sure, new cars might be using this new style of filter, but probably 90% of the cars older than 3-5 years still use the old style screw-on filter, especially Japanese ones (Euros are a bit different). This means that most of the cars out on the road will need screw-on filters come service time, so both OEM and aftermarket companies are obliged to keep making and stocking screw-on filters - the cartridge style will remain a minority for a long time. Aftermarket companies will be less inclined to start producing a product for a minority of vehicles, and for those that do take it up tooling costs are pretty much the same whether you are making 10 or 10-thousand, so the cost-per filter will be compartively higher unless the intrinsic cost of the filter is significantly less (and filters are pretty damn cheap these days anyway) And that steel (or alloy) can be recycled and re-used (personally I keep my oil filters and recycle them at the yearly Council Chemical Waste collection, which takes the used oil and containers too). Using that logic, why aren't all cars made from fibreglass, thus saving the environment from exponentially more tonnes of steel and alloy being made (how many oil filters do you reckon a car body is worth?) I'm not saying that the cartridge style is better or worse than the traditional screw-on kind, but as long as the screw-on kind remains the predominant style of filter in the OEM and aftermarket community, and they cost peanuts, you won't find car manufacturers trumpeting about the "latest and greatest", because frankly it doesn't matter that much, and the community doesn't care.

There is no way in hell that an exhaust touching the body could produce vibrations like that Engine/transmission mounts would be the first thing I check, if they're fine then it could be that the transmission itself has troubles (evident that it occurs in drive when stopped but not neutral or park). If so, I'd take it to an auto tranny expert, most likely not something you can diagnose or fix yourself.

Yet another spam-bot which posts seemingly helpful but actually very useless information... If you know the model/engine/year of the Hiace, go to ToyoDIY and punch in the details in the parts reference page, and it'll pull up the EPC (Electronics Parts Catalogue), you should be able to find the thermostat and where it's located that way.

Wait, you're complaining that there hasn't been enough lip-service paid to cartridge-style oil filters? Which have been around in Beetles for decades? And I'd love to see how they are _so_ much cheaper and better for the environment, if anything they'd be more expensive because there isn't as big a market for them yet as normal screw-on filters.

Which is why (in NSW at least) they have a great big sign at the start of the school zone telling you the speed and times of operation, pretty easy to check the time on your headunit/clock...... A large proportion of the major school zones these days have solar-powered flashing lights too which automatically turn on during school zone hours, just to drill it into you that little bit more.

If you find it hard to drive at 40km/h for 100m or so, then get off the road, you can't control your vehicle at all. I'd hate to see you in a carpark then, you'd be bouncing off cars left right and centre. Yes it seems slow, but that's the point of school zones - the slower you go, the more likely you are to see and react in time to a little kid jumping out from behind a car. School zones are one area where I think that the speed limit is perfectly acceptable, plus it's perfectly acceptable for the cops to set up radar traps there because speeding through a school zone _is_ dangerous, even moreso than on a normal road.

Mondo Rock - Come Said The Boy Awesome song

I generally fill up to the first click, let it settle for a bit, then go for anothe spurt. If it clicks again really quick (and the hose isn't at some odd angle), then I stop. I've had the click happen after only 30L or so on a pretty much empty tank, the alignment of the filler in the pipe can be very finnicky.

hmmm, are you sure that it would do that? i heard that the ZRE manuals doesnt have anything that prevents this sort of events from happening...? Congrats on getting it fixed mate B) Evo There isn't a physical thing that prevents it, just the extreme differences in gear speeds so that the synchros have trouble making the gears mesh. Try coasting along at 100km/h or so with the clutch in, and then try and select first or second (as long as you keep the clutch in the engine won't over-rev) - it will be bloody hard, if not impossible. Hell, shifting into first above about 30km/h is hard enough, let alone at 100.

Drive for longer than 100km, the further you drive the less effect the inaccuracy in the fill volume will have on the result. Process is thus: Completely fill tank Drive for X kilometers (the larger X is, the better) Completely fill tank Measure number of litres put into the tank, L Divide L by X and then by multiply by 100, and you'll have a L/100km figure. Or, divide X by 100, then divide L by that number) ie: Drive for 500km, and it takes 40L to fill the tank (40/500)*100 = 8L/100km

To me the Evora is the new Esprit, and the old Esprit had a 3.5L V8 that redlined at 7000rpm....then again, it was also twin-turbo

Knock sensors can't "detect" the octane rating of the fuel. Generally what they do is advance the timing (within a certain range, which is why you still have to set base timing separately) until knock occurs, and then retard it slightly until knock goes away - rinse and repeat. They're a dumb sensor, in that all they do is just output a voltage when excited in a particular way, the ECU does all the calculations and control. So generally you should up your base timing slightly (with the diagnostic terminals bridged to stop auto-advance) to account for the higher octane fuel (which burns slower, hence you want spark earlier), even though the knock sensor and ECU will cause the advance to automatically move depending on knock.

IS350 doesn't have supercharger... oh really?? i always thought they were running the 2GR-FSE. ive been watching them on youtube y are they so damn quick then? They are running the 2GR-FSE.....the S stands for direct injection, not Supercharger. Z is the ID for a supercharger, so technically the TRD Aurion engine is a 2GR-FZE (if they've given it an official engine designation, which I doubt, as they didn't give one to the 7AFTE AE112 Sportivo)

IS350 doesn't have supercharger... Wouldn't matter anyway as the Nagari uses a transaxle so wouldn't be able to use a normal FR RWD gearbox.

You CAN'T add lift anyway because you don't have cams :P [sacrasm]Oh I thought I did, noes. See I'm a typical blonde ho who know's f/a about cars.[/sarcasm] [sarcasm]Gee, if only I'd put a pokey-tongue emoticon at the end of my post to show that I was being facetious/silly[/sarcasm]

I'll take the Nagari with supercharged 2GR and manual :P if they ever make it (some people keep saying that it'll only be auto because thats what the TRD Aurion has, which means bugger-all)

The length of the intake path is most likely what is being affected, a proper factory CAI would be tuned-length (like extractors etc can be "tuned-length" Vacuum which is important is created after the throttle body in the plenum, as long as that vacuum is greater than the inlet vacuum then it doesn't matter, but any vacuum created in the intake tract is going to peg what you can achieve on WOT - if your intake has restrictions which drop it's pressure down to 0.8atm (ie 0.2atm vacuum) then the smallest amount of vacuum you can get in the plenum is 0.2atm (because the inlet will be "sucking" it back out through the throttle), but at WOT you want as little vacuum as possible because you want as much air as possible going into the engine This is worth reading, it shows you the difference between in-line resonators and T'd resonator as well. Autospeed article on inlet resonators