Hiro

10W-40 should be fine, unless you live in Siberia. The two numbers are viscosity (seconds taken for a litre of oil to flow through a hole) at low Winter temperature (0 C??) and at running temperature. You want low viscosity at start up so the oil gets around the engine quick but you want it to be a bit more viscus at running temperature (30 to 50). So generally the oil is less viscus at lower temperatures, and needs to be so the lower temperature the engine is when it starts. Ahh, you've got it the wrong way around. The numbers are created by timing oil-flow through an orifice, yes, but oil is less viscous at higher temperatures than at low temperatures. What those numbers say is this: 20W40: The oil has the viscosity of straight 20-weight oil at the "winter" temperature, and the viscosity of a straight 40-weight oil at operating temperature. The oil is still less viscous at higher temperatures than at low ones, but it hasn't thinned out as much as a straight-weight. This graph will show what I mean (ignore the numbers, I made them up for the sake of creating the graph, but the trend is right)

That the furniture place next to the Caltex servo in Chatswood, near the end of the Gore Hill? Seen the Lambo and Fezza several times when stopping for petrol, head the Fezza screaming through Crows Nest too

More road noise, rougher ride.

If the "fan" (ie accessories) belt goes (no such thing as an actual fan belt in a FWD car unless it's an old Mini), then it won't cause much in the way of damage unless it's the water-pump belt. 4A/7As have 3 accessory belts, one for the water pump and alternator, one from the water pump to the power steering pump, and one for the air-con compressor.

Think of what happens in a corner - the wheels turn to the side, but the inertia of the car wants to keep going straight. The softer the sidewalls in the tyres, the more they will flex before the car actually changes direction. Think of it as slop in the steering - the stiffer the sidewalls, the more direct the handling will be (ignoring all other suspension/steering components)

That's not mesh, that's sheet with a couple of holes in it....:P

Are you missing the globe or has it just blown? If it's blown, then just take it out and go down to a parts shop and get one that looks the same. They'll probably have a code on them too, like H3 or the like. Might be a bit hard for someone to tell you what it is off the top of their head, considering the RT142 was the last Corona sold here (there is the odd newer one around, but they're imports)

Nothing wrong with that, the one-off fee is to cover the making of the plate itself. The annual fee refers to the content. Since you are keeping the same content, you will keep the same annual fee ($90), which is what the site says. Why should the annual fee go away when you change the style? It's like leasing a car, but halfway through you decide to change to an equivalent model from a different brand. You might pay a one-off "transfer" fee, but you'll continue to pay the lease payments as usual from then on.

If you're going to be cleaning the wheels properly, then chances are you'd take them off the car first....

Most vehicles with jet engines don't actually use them for propulsion, just for show. They just smash the brakes on and fire the turbine up, make a pretty show, and then trundle away with whatever relatively pathetic internal-combustion engine resides under the hood

GIIIs are out of production, they've been replaced by the RE001 Adrenalins.

Geez, rust on such a new car.....my 11-year old AE102 has not one speck of rust in it bar stone-chips and one place on the trailing edge of the bonnet where it got dinged at one stage, and in those spots it's surface only, nothing 10 seconds with a Dremel couldn't fix. And the car has lived on the coast most of it's life. Standards must be slipping...

Might show up at the lunch stop, Swansea is only 10 minutes down the road from my g/f's place, and the foreshore is only 5 minutes from home for me

More mods, less photos :P Actually one photo of the speedo at 180 will do just fine :D

Ahhh, good-old Ronnie Rollbacks....

Don't spambots have calendars? Maybe there is a market for calendar bots? How about calendar spam bots? Ones which post in every thread what day it is?

You've obviously never dealt with dealers/OEM before....

Everyone says that, but I don't think it's ever been the case... You can increase the wheel size so much so that you are driving on solid rubber if you want (as long as that also meets your load rating for your vehicle). So long as the diameter of the tyre is not more than +15mm over stock, and the offset doesn't increase the track by +26mm you are fine. There's is also a minimum for those too, but I don't remember them, nor do I think it would ever matter in most cases. :P Insurance companies generally follow this rule, but also throw in a thing about exceeding 7" wide rims on certain vehicles (4 cylinder?). I hear this alot, but I don't know if it is vehicle specific or what. eg: max 10" wide rim on a HSV...? Gav. The rules are different state to state If you need exact info, go to the RTA website and download VSI09, it's the Vehicle Standards Information for wheel and tyre modifications. It spells out exactly what is and isn't legal, plus what you can fit without needing to notify the RTA.

*facepalm

Do you have a workshop manual? If so, it will tell you exactly how to take the springs out. If you have spring compressors, a jack/chassis stands and a decent socket set, you can do it yourself easily, and you don't have to buy new struts (well, you probably should since you've gotten new lowered springs, but it's not absolutely necessary in the short term as long as the springs stay captive)

Why can't you install them? And most cops let little things slide if they can't be bothered pulling you over, some times it's just not worth their effort. Speed, or do something stupid, and you're more likely to get targetted.

It's in Autosalon. Does that answer your question?

1GGEs are slugs, pure and simple. A good healthy 22RE probably has more guts than a non-turbo 1G, if only because of the extra 400cc capacity. Since you intend on going 1GGTE once you get off your Ps, then I highly recommend just sucking it up and leaving the 22RE as is for the moment - why spend money on a conversion when you're going to be spending even more money in a year or two's time to change it all anyway? Can't remember Vic laws, but are you allowed engine changes (I know in NSW you're not)? Or are just turbos/superchargers not allowed (there used to be a power-to-weight thing too, right?). In that case, maybe think about going VZ/MZ V6, you can strap a supercharger on once you get unrestricted, it'll be different (but plenty common for parts, and relatively cheap too). plenty of guts as you'll be basing off a 3L instead of a 2L, etc etc. 1GGTEs are a very common install for Coronas, so at least if you do end up going that option there is plenty of info out there for you, which is a plus.

It's not the song that's bad, just the video makes some people cringe a bit. Plus, it's an internet phenomenon that has grown way larger than originally intended, and thus has most likely lost it's original meaning and taken on that of the meme. Don't spambots have calendars?

Anyone with a brain would know that electric cars aren't the solution to the here-and-now. There are a solution to the future, as more environmentally-friendly electricity generation is developed. An electric car which runs off coal-fired electricity will be just the same as one that runs off solar- or wind-generated electricity. All the better to adopt technology early, that way when it does become mainstream you've got a head-start. And it's not all about environmental impact, it's reducing reliance on petrol/oil-based fuels as well.